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Mount Wilson is a remote, expert-level 14er in the San Juan Range's Lizard Head Wilderness, located 16 miles southwest of Telluride. As the highest point in the rugged "Wilson Group," it sits closely alongside Wilson Peak and unranked El Diente Peak, featuring complex route-finding and sustained Class 3–4 scrambling on loose rock. If you haven't climbed many 14ers, please hike/climb a bunch of easier peaks before attempting any routes in the Wilson Group. The area features a rich 19th-century silver mining history, with notable historical claims, sites, and ruins like the Silver Pick Mine and Morning Star Mine.
Elevation 14,256' (LiDAR)
Prev Elevation 14,246'
CO 14er Rank 16 of 53
Range San Juan
Forest San Juan
County Dolores
Towns Ouray, Telluride, Rico
Mt. Wilson

Photos

360 Pano
360° Summit Pano
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Climbing Routes

route
Navajo Lake Approach
Difficulty: Class 1
Total Elevation Gain: 2,000'
Round-trip Distance: 9.5 mi
Exposure: Low
Rockfall Potential: Low
Route-Finding: Low
Commitment: Low
route
Rock of Ages Approach
Difficulty: Class 1
Total Elevation Gain: 2,800'
Round-trip Distance: 8.5 mi
Exposure: Moderate
Rockfall Potential: Low
Route-Finding: Low
Commitment: Low
route
Kilpacker Approach
Difficulty: Class 1
Total Elevation Gain: 800'
Round-trip Distance: 6 mi
Exposure: Low
Rockfall Potential: Low
Route-Finding: Low
Commitment: Low
route
Woods Lake Approach
Difficulty: Class 1
Total Elevation Gain: 2,115'
Round-trip Distance: 9 mi
Exposure: Low
Rockfall Potential: Low
Route-Finding: Low
Commitment: Low
route
Wilson Peak - Southwest Ridge Standard Route
Difficulty: Class 3
Total Elevation Gain: 3,900'
Round-trip Distance: 10 mi
Exposure: High
Rockfall Potential: Considerable
Route-Finding: Considerable
Commitment: Considerable
route
El Diente Peak - South Slopes Standard Route
Difficulty: Class 3
Total Elevation Gain: 4,400'
Round-trip Distance: 12 mi
Exposure: Considerable
Rockfall Potential: Considerable
Route-Finding: High
Commitment: Considerable
route
Mt. Wilson - Southwest Slopes Standard Route
Difficulty: Class 3
Total Elevation Gain: 4,400'
Round-trip Distance: 12.5 mi
Exposure: High
Rockfall Potential: Considerable
Route-Finding: Considerable
Commitment: Considerable
route
Mt. Wilson - North Slopes
Difficulty: Class 4
Total Elevation Gain: 5,100'
Round-trip Distance: 16 mi
Exposure: High
Rockfall Potential: High
Route-Finding: High
Commitment: Considerable
route
El Diente Peak - North Slopes
Difficulty: Class 3
Total Elevation Gain: 5,000'
Round-trip Distance: 15 mi
Exposure: Considerable
Rockfall Potential: Considerable
Route-Finding: High
Commitment: Considerable
route
Combo: Mt. Wilson + El Diente Traverse
Difficulty: Class 4
Total Elevation Gain: 500'
Round-trip Distance: 1 mi
Exposure: High
Rockfall Potential: High
Route-Finding: High
Commitment: High
route  _
El Diente Peak - North Buttress
Difficulty: Class 4
Total Elevation Gain: 3,200'
Round-trip Distance: 5 mi
Exposure: High
Rockfall Potential: Considerable
Route-Finding: High
Commitment: High
route  _
Mt. Wilson - East Face
Difficulty: Class 3  Moderate Snow
Total Elevation Gain: 4,900'
Round-trip Distance: 12 mi
Exposure: High
Rockfall Potential: Considerable
Route-Finding: High
Commitment: High

Map

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Trip Reports

  8 Recent Reports Peaks Climbed Added
  of chafe and character-building Google Map Included GPX file available for download
By: EvanKBlack
Added: 7/30/2026
San Luis Peak
El Diente Peak
Mt. Wilson
Wilson Peak
Mt. Sneffels
Mt. Lindsey
7/22/2026 7/30/2026 9  24
  SOLO Day Hiking the Winter 14ers
By: illusion7il
Added: 4/26/2026
Mt. Eolus
North Eolus
Sunlight Peak
Windom Peak
Capitol Peak
Pyramid Peak
Snowmass Mountain
Maroon Peak
North Maroon Peak
Mt. Wilson
El Diente Peak
Wilson Peak
Mt. of the Holy Cross
Little Bear Peak
Longs Peak
12/22/2025 4/26/2026 32 
  Slate Creek to Mt. Wilson
By: Kiefer
Peak(s): Mt. Wilson
Added: 1/26/2026
Mt. Wilson 1/18/2026 1/26/2026 17  23
  New snow for fun day
By: jace_reber
Added: 10/1/2025
El Diente Peak
Mt. Wilson
9/28/2025 10/1/2025 5  4
  Four Nights at the Wilson Group
By: jcbmaverick
Added: 9/7/2025
Wilson Peak
Mt. Wilson
El Diente Peak
9/4/2025 9/7/2025 7  21
  An Ocean Of Talus - Mt Wilson from Kilpacker Google Map Included GPX file available for download
By: The_Ramp
Peak(s): Mt. Wilson
Added: 10/12/2025
Mt. Wilson 8/30/2025 10/12/2025 6  8
  Tour de 14ers Bikepack - Summer 2025
By: Cool Hand Luke
Added: 8/11/2025
Mt. Elbert
Blanca Peak
Uncompahgre Peak
Mt. Lincoln
Castle Peak
Mt. Blue Sky
Mt. Wilson
All 58 14ers
6/16/2025 8/11/2025 15  50
  Video Trip Report: Colorado 14er Mt. Wilson, September 2024
By: mikjik86
Peak(s): Mt. Wilson
Added: 1/14/2025
Mt. Wilson 9/6/2024 1/14/2025 4 
View All 174 Trip Reports

Frequently Asked Questions about Mt. Wilson

Do I need a permit to camp in the basins surrounding Mount Wilson?

While you do not need to secure a competitive pre-booked wilderness permit or reservation to camp in the surrounding Lizard Head Wilderness, strict regional management rules apply. Specifically, the U.S. Forest Service has banned traditional dispersed camping within the Navajo Lake Basin. Hikers looking to stay overnight in Navajo Basin are required to use designated campsites identified by official physical markers and maps, and campfires are entirely prohibited in all basins.

How difficult is the El Diente to Mount Wilson traverse and what is the best approach?

The legendary El Diente to Mount Wilson Traverse is a serious, high-consequence Class 4 mountaineering route with exposure, loose rock, and complex route-finding. To tackle it safely, approaching the traverse from the south via the Kilpacker Basin is generally considered the easiest and most efficient method. Starting from Kilpacker offers a shorter, less fatiguing approach day and allows you to ascend El Diente's standard South Slopes first before tracking across the ridge. Then, descending Mt. Wilson's Southwest Slopes route.

Can I climb Mount Wilson, El Diente Peak, and Wilson Peak all in one day?

Bagging all three summits in a single day creates a massive, grueling endurance day. If you choose to attempt it, the most efficient method is to start at the Navajo Lake or Rock of Ages trailhead and ascend El Diente Peak's North Slopes route first, then traverse across the ridge crest to Mount Wilson, and hit Wilson Peak on your way back out. To do this safely, you should aim for early summer so you can climb the unstable North Slopes of El Diente when the couloir is filled with consolidated snow, avoiding severe summer rockfall hazards.

What is the naming history of this peak group and why are there two "Wilsons"?

The naming duplication dates back to the historical 1874 Hayden Geological Survey. Topographer A.D. Wilson climbed the highest point in the local cluster, which was officially named Mount Wilson (14,246 feet) in his honor. Later, when surveyors realized there was a completely separate, highly prominent independent 14er horn sitting just two miles directly north, they named it Wilson Peak (14,017 feet) after him as well. To round out the group, the adjacent jagged tooth was aptly given the Spanish name El Diente ("The Tooth").

Additional Mt. Wilson History

Name History 1
Climbing History 0
Mining 0
Geology 1
More Information 0
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