Crestone Peak

The standard and most popular approach is via the South Colony Lakes trail from the east side of the range, which offers well-maintained trails and excellent base camping options. Alternatively, there are remote approaches from the west side of the Sangre de Cristo range, such as the Cottonwood Creek trail leading to Cottonwood Lake. These western approaches are significantly longer and more physically demanding, requiring navigation through dense overgrowth and unmaintained terrain.

Yes, there is a minor controversy because recent on-site GPS measurements indicated that the sub-peak known as "East Crestone" might be roughly 3 inches higher than the main summit. However, this has little practical impact for climbers and could simply be due to man-made rock piles stacked on that peak. Both the main, named summit and "East Crestone" sit very close together, require the exact same approach route, and offer identical technical terrain, meaning you can easily bag the main summit, the eastern high point, or both without significantly altering your climb.

No, you do not. While the Crestone Traverse is a famous mountaineering linkup, it features sustained, high-consequence Class 4 climbing with extreme vertical exposure. For safety, it is highly recommended to climb Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle as separate, independent day trips from your base camp. Doing them individually allows you to stay on their standard routes and completely avoid the near vertical, extremely exposed climbing on the Needle side of the traverse. Not a place you want to be without the proper skills, as well as dry, windless weather.

Crossing Broken Hand Pass is a mandatory hurdle when approaching the standard routes from South Colony Lakes, and it requires a few Class 3 scrambling moves. The pass consists of a steep, loose gully filled with dirt and unstable scree that presents a severe slip and rockfall hazard. You must take deliberate steps, watch for hikers above or below you, and strictly wear a climbing helmet while navigating the narrow, rocky bottlenecks near the top of the pass.