From the trailhead, hike south up the Snowmass Creek trail (
1). In the first mile, pass through one or more gates (
2) and continue another 1.5 miles to reach a junction for the West Snowmass trail. Stay left on the Maroon-Snowmass trail. Near 4 miles in, enjoy a beautiful view of Snowmass Mountain (
3). After 6+ miles and above 10,000', you'll reach the infamous log jam
located at the north end of several ponds (
4). After the height of the spring thaw, the log jam provides a way to cross the creek and continue along the trail. Carefully cross the log jam (
5). On the west side of the ponds, follow the serpentine trail south as it turns right and switchbacks up a slope (
6). Reenter the forest and continue for another mile to reach a trail junction (
7). Continue straight to arrive at the stream outlet on the east side of Snowmass Lake
, 8+ miles in (
8). Campsites are available on both sides of the stream.
To begin your ascent, cross to the south side of the stream and pass through a short section of forest (
9). This leads to a clearing near the lake's shore, where you can preview the route ahead (
10,
11). Near the shore, locate the trail and follow it southwest (
12). Weave through willows and traverse a few open areas to reach a boulder field
at the west end of the lake (
13,
14). Follow cairns through the boulder field and ascend toward the gully/stream that drains from the snowmass above. Near 11,600', avoid climbing the steep and loose pitch by crossing the stream and continuing up through willows and ledges. At 12,000', you'll reach easier terrain and can proceed toward the snowmass (
15,
16).
Once on the snowmass
, locate the summit in the distance along with a large bump on the southeast ridge (
17). Hike approximately 1/2 mile toward the summit to reach another flat area just above 13,000' (
18). Continue west toward the bump on the ridge. Aim for a break in the terrain on the left side of some cliffs and climb moderate snow or large rocks (
19,
20). Continue to the ridge crest
, at 13,700' (
21). The summit is 1/3 mile away, and the remaining route involves plenty of Class 3 terrain. Cross to the west side of the ridge, turn right, and continue just below the ridge crest (
22). About halfway between the bump and the summit, easiest scrambling may be along the ridge crest (
23). Drop back to just below the ridge crest and head toward a prominent point with a rock rib on the left (
24). Locate a break in the rib and scramble over it to see the remaining route (
25). Continue below large rocks to reach the final pitch (
26,
27). Be careful here, there's plenty of loose rock. Climb the final pitch and enjoy the summit (
28,
29).
More-Direct Variation (Steep Snow):
If snow is present, you may opt to gain the ridge via a notch, closer to the summit (
30). Instead of ascending toward the bump on the left end of the ridge, continue heading directly toward the left side of the summit area and identify the notch just left of some cliffs. A small cornice may be present. Choose your line and ascend the steepening snow to reach the notch (
31). From the notch (
32), pass to the south side of the ridge and turn right to rejoin the standard route (
33,
34).