Snowmass Mountain

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 6/8/2025, By: masonzastrow
Info: Sure sounds like one day made a huge difference in conditions! We started from the lake at 3 and also immediately encountered some very frustrating snow. It seemed like most parties kept boots on here in the morning, myself included. The snow on the scree slope is the way to go: one party today kept going up on rocks and was carelessly knocking down suitcase sized boulders at a group putting on crampons. That was really frustrating. From the snow on the scree field to the summit, most parties kept crampons on the whole time. One group summited with only micro spikes. The ridge scramble is in great shape, mixed snow and rock climbing but not as loose as I expected given previous reports. Every party today also used the slot described in yesterday's post to gain the ridge, I have attached a few pictures. Glissading down was amazing. Worst part of the day was the stretch traversing around the lake on the way down. We brought snowshoes and didn't put them on all day because we imagined we'd be sinking just as bad. There were enough dry or dry-ish camp spots for all campers at the lake, which seemed like more than the 13 parties which had reservations... hmmmm. Overall great conditions. Special shoutout to Michael for rescuing a snowshoe that fell off my pack while glissading. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 6/8/2025, By: shaines90
Info: Lake is totally melted out now and the creek is raging. Started from the lake at 3am, almost immediately hit nearly-constant snow cover which required snowshoes to progress safely and in a reasonable timeframe. Boulder field is totally dry, the snow gully to the right was filled in and firm enough for us to switch to crampons and ascend directly to avoid the loose rock on the talus slope. The snowmass itself was about 6 inches of fresh powder over a wet layer above a firmer layer, so avalanche danger will continue to be a concern at multiple points. We took a variation on the direct route, going one gap to the left through a small window and helping each other put our packs through first. The ridge itself was also covered in fresh powder above a layer of firmer snow and ice; we wore crampons all the way to the summit, and it got pretty spicy at points with some tougher class 3 moves required to stay in safer terrain. With the newer snow, I would not feel safe following the lower, standard route along the ridge right now. Summited about 9am, worked back down the snowmass being wary of triggering anything - plenty of loose wet avalanches all across the top of the basin after about 6:30 kept it spooky. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 6/1/2025, By: haho3278
Info: Climbed via east slopes route on 5/31. Start early enough to get to the ridge by the time the sun is rising, the snow conditions deteriorated rapidly after sunrise. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 5/27/2025, By: skythian
Info: Optimal conditions. Most of the "snow boulders" on the approach have melted or at least are manageable. No snow at logjam. Also most of the scree/boulder field is still covered by snow. They have really improved the trail in recent years. I used snowshoes starting just after the switchback. Did not pack crampons or microspikes. Camped at the lake, started at 2:30 and summited a little after 6. By 7 the snow was already getting soft, I don't think a summit would have been possible much after that. Direct variation is possible but sketchy! 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 5/27/2025, By: Clarethebear
Info: Trail to the lake is mostly free of snow until the last 2 miles. Starts with patchy knee deep snow then goes to consistent knee to waist deep snow for the last mile. Left camp Saturday morning at 3 am and the snow was perfect. We made it all the way to the ridgeline about 400 feet from the summit and turned around. Not enough snow, too much ice and loose rock. Snow conditions back down the mountain stayed good around 9 am and probably had some more time before it was too bad. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 4/23/2025, By: Snow_Dog_frassati
Info: Conditions are good - but the approach is interesting. There was a lot of new snow and we did it but I expect that to melt relatively quickly. Kind of annoying because the snow line is mostly The same elevation as the first 3-5 miles. It was off and on switching between post holing, skinning, and hiking. Pick your poison, It's probably going to suck a little bit. Log jam was totally snow covered and not an issue. Plenty of snow up high, lake frozen solid. Pics below. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 10/4/2024, By: stimko
Info: Still full summer conditions from the lake to the mountain. Campsites were dry and bug free. 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 10/3/2024, By: Sail3733
Info: West slope route was clear of snow on 9/28/24. LKB 4WD road wasn't too bad. Got my wife's stock '17 Sequoia up and down no problem. Bottomed out a few times only bc I wasn't paying attention and we were doing it at night. More careful driving would have prevented that. Don't tell my wife. Switch backs aren't too bad with plenty of room to back up a few feet to make it need be. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 9/8/2024, By: taylorharris50
Info: Summer conditions. Amazing day in the Elks. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 8/6/2024, By: Isaac1621
Info: Quick update on the stream crossing at 11,600 ft. The snow melt has slowed so the standard route can be followed and stream can be crossed at 11,720 ft. without getting wet. That being said, the scree slope on the standard route is quite difficult, we still found it easier to cross at 11,600 ft. and climb up between the 2 streams. You will need to pick your way through a few willow patches, but footing on the grass and rocks felt much more solid. All snow can be avoided climbing standard route. We found the rock gully leading up to the ridge to be fairly solid, the loose rock is most noticeable on the left side of the ridge as you make your way up to the summit. We preferred the ridgeline direct for the final summit push (last 75-100 ft. of gain). Wildflowers are in full force, happy peak bagging!! 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 8/4/2024, By: bangerth
Info: We camped at the Lead King Basin which is in fantastic shape with wildflowers abounding. Then hiked up the S Ridge and down the West Slopes. The ridge is outstanding, with long and sustained class 3 climbing. The West Slopes I did not enjoy so much with how steep and loose it is. It's all summer conditions. If you have a bit of time, make the detour to Siberia Lake, which is just a pleasure in blue, with plenty of brook trout with bright red fins. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 8/3/2024, By: frodacious
Info: Did one push from car to summit and camped at log jam. Very much regret bringing traction and ice axe. Never deployed either of them. You can do the whole thing without touching snow if you want to. Helmet is a pretty good idea though. Mosquitos are pretty gnarly right now. The willows and the scree made this one pretty punishing. 

Route: S Ridge/West Slopes
Posted On: 7/30/2024, By: climbingyogi
Info: My group and I ascended the S Ridge and descended the West Slopes yesterday. After bailing on the East Slopes route in June (about 500 ft from the summit), we decided this route looked like a good option for us. We were very happy to see this side of Snowmass and to get to experience all of the major routes up this mountain (with the exception of Satan's Ridge - ew, lol). We started hiking just after 5am fom the Lead King Basin TH (thanks to Brandon for his capable vehicle!). It was a pleasant hike up to Geneva Lake + then Little Gem Lake. Around 8:30am, we got to the base of the access gullies + rib. Upon further inspection, we decided the class 3/4 rib looked like a good option for us. There was a short class 4 section at the start of the rib that two of us chose - one of us chose to find a class 3 line there. The rest of the rib was easily class 3. I don't feel like there's much to report on the S Ridge, other than make sure to stay as close to the ridge as you can. There were times we would venture off just slightly left of the ridge, but I think we stayed close to ridge proper for the majority of the climb. This might've been the most sustained class 3 route I've been on with non-stop, fun scrambling. We did encounter the class 4 crux and all of us opted to go for it. It definitely was harder than the rest of the ridge but wasn't too bad overall. If you feel hesitant, then I suggest taking the notch bypass on climber's left. We got to the summit of Snowmass at 11:26am and hungout until a little after 12pm. We had a wonderful day of mostly blue skies and very little chance of rain, which was great for this route! And while we intended to descend the S Ridge initially, we changed our minds and decided to descend the West Slopes route instead. I believe it took us about 2 hours to descend the West Slopes, and we were back at the TH at 3:30pm. The uppper part of the West Slopes was definitely the loosest and steepest, but it got much better the further we descended. Super great day out and so lucky to get to experience Snowmass from the South/West side! The wildflowers are out of this world over here. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/29/2024, By: terribletigzy
Info: Route is mostly dry, there are some snowfields above 13k, but they are low angle. I didn't put spikes on, but I would bring them depending on your comfort. You could probably avoid all of the snow if you really wanted, but it would take some unnecessary zig-zagging. 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 7/29/2024, By: lauradaughtry
Info: Pure summer conditions. I drove to the Lead King Basin Trailhead in my '17 4Runner in 4WD Low and had zero problems; the drive took about an hour and a half from Marble. (Beware: the road is narrow at some points, so you may need to negotiate passing others.) You will have to do a little bushwhacking (overgrown plants and some muddy willow sections) on the trail up to both Geneva and Little Gem lakes, but it's worth it; you will see miles of meadow with wildflowers. It was gorgeous and perhaps the only thing worth experiencing both the ascent and descent of the 2,500' vert gully. The gully is as daunting as people say: assume every rock moves (because they do) and check every hold/step. It's a slog and will mentally/physically test you.