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Lizard Head

Mark of Zorro
Difficulty Class 5 
Risk FactorsExposure: High
Rockfall: High  
Route-Finding: High  
Commitment: High  
 
Start10,000 feet
Summit13,112 feet
Total Gain3,100 feet
RT Length9.6 miles
Last UpdatedSep 2023
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Trailhead

From Telluride, follow Colorado 145 to Lizard Head Pass. Continue 2 miles SW to the trailhead on the north side of the road.

Route Description

This is a variation to the third pitch of Lizard Head's standard route. It is sunnier, easier and arguably higher quality than the standard 3rd pitch.


P3 variation.

On the SW side of the summit block, about 100' to climber's right of the standard 3rd pitch chimney, are a set of two zig-zagging ramps to the summit. At the start of the first ramp, there is a small V-shaped notch. We reached the notch by about 20' of 5.4 climbing above the pitch two talus; the rock in this section is surprisingly solid, fortunate since the only protection we saw in the section is an excavated #1 Tricam placement.
(Note: it is probably feasible to skip the belay in the notch entirely.)
The right-leaning ramp is easy climbing, possibly class four, but unprotectable without gear in the 5-6" range. The left-leaning ramp is harder, around 5.4, wildly exposed and has placements for "small to medium" gear. BD 0.75 and #1 are key placements. There are two angle pitons at the beginning of ramp. One old, one new and not placed by me.

Belay at the chains at the end of the standard pitch three.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/124806858/mark-of-zorro

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