First, use
Grizzly Peak's east ridge route to reach the summit of Grizzly. Looking south to Garfield Peak (
1), you might think the traverse looks difficult but it really isn't. While there are some easy, Class 3 moves required after you make the Garfield summit, they are brief. Leave the Grizzly summit by taking a few steps back to the west before dropping west below the ridge crest. Hike south on some loose rock (
2 and
3) to avoid the more-difficult terrain along the ridge crest. After a short distance, regain the ridge -
4. Follow the ridge toward a ~13,650-foot point which sits between Grizzly and Garfield -
5. Without going over the top, follow a trail onto and around Point 13,650 (
6 and
7) to reach a saddle before Garfield -
8.
Continue to Garfield on a faint trail and take a moment to study the terrain -
9. You could probably go straight up the ridge on Class 3 terrain but if you're looking for the easiest way to the summit, it's around to the right, on Class 2 terrain. Swing right (south) a bit before beginning your ascent of Garfield's upper, south slopes -
10 and
11. Gradually climb left and regain the ridge at a point where you're comfortable.
12 shows a point on the ridge which you could bypass by continuing a bit farther right before gaining the ridge. If you do hit the ridge in this area, simply scramble east along the ridge crest. 0.1 mile before the summit, the ridge becomes much easier, providing an obvious line to the top -
13,
14 and
15.
You could return over Grizzly but most people take a more-direct descent of Garfield's ugly, north slopes. Walk a few feet east from Garfield's summit and locate an easy, Class 3 exit on the RIGHT (south) side of the ridge -
16. Descend this pitch before continuing east and north back to the north side of the ridge -
17. Scramble a bit farther east along the north side of the ridge and descend north on a loose scree slope -
18. Once below the sloppy slope, head northeast out of upper McNasser Gulch (
19 and
20) and return to your approach by descending into the gulch and intersecting your ascent line, near 12,200'.