Snowmass Mountain

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/31/2015, By: kenwil14
Info: We started hiking at sunrise (about 05:30) from the lake and promptly took a wrong turn. After about 15 minutes we realized we were too far south of and above the lake and decided to bushwhack towards the shore where we hoped to find the trail. Fortunately, we found it about 15 minutes later and were at the base of the scree field at 06:15. We wasted a little time and energy but we inadvertently avoid the willows in the early morning darkness. The scree field was not as steep as it appeared to be from the lake but it was slow going. The biggest issue was loose rock. My two partners and I fanned out so as not to scramble directly above one another. Helmets would have provided peace of mind but were not necessary. We made it through an easy section between the scree and the snowfields relatively quickly. By 07:30 the snowfields were still pretty iced over, but we all postholed once or twice (on the way up). We each had a hiking pole, but two poles definitely would have come in handy in the snow. Heading toward the ridge, we aimed for a gentler looking section on the north (right) side of the "lump" between Hagerman and Snowmass Mountain. It was some tougher scrambling for novice climbers but it got us to the ridge. The trail below the ridge was a little tough to spot, but a far smarter and safer choice than simply following the ridge to the summit. The rock from the ridge to the summit is (thankfully!) more solid than the rock on the east side but there were still some loose ones from time to time. Just be sure to go slowly and test every hand and foothold in advance. We made it at about 10:00 and spent half an our enjoying the summit. Making our way back to the ridge was slow going and took some focus. The scrambling we'd done on our way up the east side was just as tough coming down and we decided to test the snow. It had softened a great deal (11:15) and it was more efficient (and fun) to just slide on our rain coats. When we made it to the lower end of the snowfields, there was some serious postholing. I went in up to my hip on multiple occasions. The scree field was slow going but not too much of a hassle. The willows were annoying but easily passable in the daylight. Made sure all your gear is attached to you or your pack when you go through though. One of my partners lost a 'lifestraw' water purifier and was pretty bummed about it. We made it back to camp on the east side of the lake a little before 14:00. The river was not high enough this time of year for the log jam to be any problem. I do recommend using a pole for stability, though. Overall it was a great hike! Lots of fun obstacles to deal with. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/27/2015, By: ulvetano
Info: Went up Snowmass yesterday and the route is in great shape, provided you have the right gear. My buddy Paul and I left the trailhead at 2am and took 3 hrs to get to the Lake, then another 3 for the summit and got back to the truck at 1:30. We mixed in some trail running, walking, and scrambling thoughout the day and waited at the Lake for the sun to rise. Flowers are gorgeous up there right now on the other side of the lake! As for the route, the snowfield is in pretty good, but hitting the upper section to gain the ridge at 7am was not too much fun. I had microspikes and a whippet, but the snow was close to bullet-proof and trying to kick steps up was a major chore. Scratching up it with whippet and microspikes didn't feel comforting at all. If you hit it early, I'd frankly recommend crampons and an ice ax. If you hit it later in the day and you're able to post hole, then you might be ok with less gear. Ridge to summit was really nice and easy going.

Edit: just realized that I did the 'more direct alternative' in Bill's route description. Thus my gripping experience on the hard & steep snow. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/29/2015, By: JenGa
Info: Start time: 6am
Summit: 10:45
Gear: crampons, ice ax, helmet

We got stuck in the lake-side willows path, no big deal and still made it through in 25 min.
We hiked the scree slope and had no problem with route finding up the grassy slope to the snowmass.
Made the top of the grassy slope in 1.5 hours. The snowmass was a little mushy when we started (9am),
but crampons were still very useful especially on the section just below the ridge where it is steep.
The ridge was good, with obvious route-finding.

The most dangerous part of the entire route was that the streamflow increased from nearly nothing on the
ascent to impassable and dangerous on the descent. Luckily there is a crossing about 10 feet higher in the
stream bed, but then requires a slightly dangerous traverse of the steep gravel slope. This bit was more
sketchy than any of the class 3 hiking we did earlier. Be careful there. Or don't wait until 3pm in the afternoon
to descend. We took our time coming down, glissaded then dried out on a rock for about an hour.

Mostly this route was just super fun! We stayed that night at the lake and hiked out the next morning. Nice relaxed
walk out - I recommend doing this if you have the time to avoid a long, 11 mile day.

-Jen 

Route: East Slope Variations
Posted On: 7/20/2015, By: TakeMeToYourSummit
Info: I'll try to keep this brief (I have a whole photo album linked to the 14ers.com FB page & I think I might make a TR out of that for this site soon). A few friends & I climbed Snowmass using several variations of the East Slopes route. I will speak mainly of my route as I only saw the other routes from 100's of feet away. The willows around the lake are out in full force (as the last post said - scope your line if you camp the night prior). I chose to cross the creek 1/2 way up the scree and took the grassy path which then links up with many slabby rocks. Patchy snow starts above the scree field. During my snowclimb the snow was everywhere from bulletproof to mid-thigh postholing. I aimed for the snowy notch between Snowmass & North Snowmass (a summit I cared to climb). It was 8ish at this point & the snow was getting the worst I'd yet experienced. I made a quick decision to bail to the left of the snowy notch & finish the climb to the ridge on rock.

DISCLAIMER: This section of my route is not for the timid. The route above me consisted of "kitty litter", loose scree, and hopefully solid multi-ton boulders - all on sloping rock. At one point I had my right hand on a bomber hold - as I tried to move up the left side of my body my left hand triggered some rock movement... then my left foot did the same! I quickly moved my whole body to the right as the rocks cascaded down. A few minutes later I managed to make the ridge - much more solid rock now!

The ridge run to North Snowmass has a few loose sections - but is very manageable compared to the section I had climbed to gain the ridge. A quick stop on North & I made my way to Snowmass proper. The crux section was easier than I thought it looked in photos (I would have hated to do it with water or ice on the ledges though!). After a bit of summit time - I worked my way to the top of the "direct notch" variation. I glissaded, traversed (due to a large rock patch), & glissaded some more! Most definitely the best two glissades of my life! Several shorter/mellower glissades led me back to my ascent route. Careful downward movement led us to the lake shore - beating a storm by less than an hour (noonish). 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/16/2015, By: fahixson
Info: Hiked to Snowmass Lake 7/12, attempted summit from East Slope 7/13, but turned around due to wet/cold feet. It seems several people (including us and one other group on Monday) have trouble staying below the 4 Pass Loop trail, but high enough above the lake to stay dry. Especially difficult to do in the dark. If you're camping the night before, try to get there early enough to scout the path around the lake in the day light. We got completely soaked on our way up, but stayed completely dry on the way down. So, it is possible to stay dry, but very easy to get wet.

If it's raining in the days/hours leading up to your hike, the approach trail is going to be very muddy (and bushes you're brush along the trail very wet). It wasn't too bad on the way in, but it rained hard for the last 30 minutes or so on our way out. There were large puddles in the trail and you didn't have much choice other than getting your feet wet. I was expecting it to be wet around the lake, but all the water on the approach trail surprised us. On the bright side, all those puddles will wash off the horse crap you'll be stepping in that you can't see in the puddles.

We camped at roughly N39 07.028 W107 01.799. Just a few minutes after leaving camp, we arrived at what I like to call Star Fish Junction (see picture). There are five trails that converge in one spot - A couple social trails, one for the Four Pass Loop route, one heading NW straight toward the lake, and one heading WSW toward the dry path around the lake. When we left camp and got near this junction in the dark, I knew we were likely too far from the lake and heading for Trailrider Pass. So we opted for the trail that went NW straight toward the lake. Now there is a trail that goes all the way around the south side of the lake, pretty much right on the shore. That shore line trail will get you where you need to be, but it will also get your feet wet and muddy (maybe even suck a shoe off in the process).

The dry path we took on the way back is very close to the shore at times, but majority of the time it's a little higher up. The key spot for us was a little trickle of water draining toward the lake where you'll want to make a left (on the way to the summit) from the shore line trail to the higher trail. I believe this is likely the same "unexpected left turn" that blantow mentioned in a conditions update 7/11. Too bad we didn't see that update before we started. Unfortunately, I don't have a waypoint for this spot, but judging from our GPS tracks it would be about halfway around the lake, roughly N39 06.917 W107 01.984.

All this talk about a dry trail vs. wet shoreline trail is a moot point if it's been raining and the willows are wet. In that case, you better have waterproof pants and jacket to stay dry because those willows are massive and there's no way to get through without brushing up against them. I had a second pair of shoes that really helped me out. I brought them because I like boulder hopping and scrambling in my LS Boulder X shoes, but they're not super comfy on long approach trails, so I had some trail runners as well. I wore trail runners on the approach and trail around the lake, so it wasn't terrible that my feet got soaked. I had extra shoes and socks. My wife wasn't so fortunate as she had a couple pair of extra socks, but it didn't matter once her shoes were soaked. Ultimately lead to us turning around after traveling a little ways on the snow and her feet were just too cold.

Lastly, on the snowmass, we turned around about 12,800'. I'm guessing the snow started about 12,200', but I didn't mark it exactly. We were on snow maybe 400-600 vertical feet, wearing microspikes and had axes, but didn't really make it to anything steep enough to use them. The snow was firm enough most of the time, but definitely would not support weight near rocks pointing out or where water was flowing underneath. I'd guess 1 in 5 steps sunk ankle deep, 1 in 10 sunk maybe mid-calf to knee deep, and 2 or 3 times I sunk down enough to need my hands to push myself back up. Guessing we got on the snow a little after 7am and got off the snow close to 830am. Most of that time was spent talking about how cold my wife's feet were, not actually traveling on the snow. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/13/2015, By: K_Rager
Info: Completed the standard route in 2 days so this info is really for 7/11/15 and 7/12/15, but we gained the summit on the 12th.

Started from the trail head at 10 AM on Saturday morning. Reached the campground at Snowmass lake at ~3:30 PM. Log jam in good condition. Rain came through during our hike into the lake so crossing the log jam was a little wobbly for me as I was getting rained on. Some hikers were wearing gators for the mud in the first 8 miles, but they weren't totally necessary. I felt that trekking poles were really helpful for the log jam.

Started the summit push on Sunday at ~4:30 PM. Stay very low and near the lake in the willows for the first part of the ascent. It is muddy and at times seems like it wasn't a trail. At times we were 1 ft from the lake in mud, but I think that was the correct trail and route.

We took the scree field to the left of the willows, but there is an additional trial about half way up the scree field into the willows if you are willing to cross the stream. The snow field started very quickly after the scree field and continued until the ridge. The snow field was much longer than I was expected and I had some fairly cold feet for parts of it. We took the more direct route (more snow field time, less ridge time). There looks to be trenches up the standard and direct route.

Once on the ridge, the wind picked up dramatically. The class 3 climbing up there wasn't too difficult, but was made sketchy by the moving rocks. Test every rock you rely on first. Large rocks were moving around that normally I wouldn't expect to move at all. Gained the summit around ~10 AM.. Returned to camp by ~2 PM, left camp at 3:30 PM. Reached the trail head and our cars by ~7:15 PM. It was a very long day. I used just trekking poles, good mountaineering clothing, and microspikes because I wasn't expecting quite so much snow. See below for what I wish I would have brought.

If I were to re-pack I would bring:
More extra socks (muddy and wet sections)
Trekking Poles
Crampons
Gators

I didn't really feel an ice axe was necessary, but that could have been helpful on a few sections. This is a great mountain. Sorry for the lack of pics, my phone died. Feel free to shoot me questions.

Cheers! 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/12/2015, By: Corey17
Info: Packed up to Snowmass Lake on 7/10, and hit the summit on 7/11 around 8AM after a 3:50 start.

The pack in was long, and muddy. It has been raining daily out there, and everything is soaked. Be ready to be wet!!

The willows around the lake are awful. The little trail that cuts high through the willows is overgrown, and essentially impossible to follow in the dark. With daylight, we followed it back without issue. But its a very wet and long time sink, so plan for that. In the dark, we ended up hugging the very shore of the lake half the time, avoiding the heaviest bushwhacking, and it still took almost an hour to get to the boulder field.

Scree field sucks. Need I say more?

The snowmass itself was excellent. We had a mostly clear night, with a small system move through around 11, and a cloudy morning. Near rocks, the snow gave way to postholes. Otherwise, excellent firm snow. We took the direct line, and it is still in, albeit steep and tricky to get onto the ridge. The ridge itself had about a half-inch of fresh snow on all the rocks. Be extra careful on those slick rocks!! 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/13/2015, By: blantow
Info: Snowmass is in great shape. Started up at 0345 from about 500 vertical feet and 3/4mi from the Lake (late start Friday afternoon left us camping a little low). Willows as others said were a pain, pretty overgrown and wet, however we did not have nearly as hard a time as others in following the trail, there's an unexpected left turn halfway through to keep an eye out for. Scree is awful but dry, the gulch is icy in the morning. We hit the snowfield by 7:30-8am and it was still crisp from the hard freeze night prior. Didn't use spikes or crampons and went up the standard summer route to the left. If we had crampons we would have gone up the right to the notch. Still great snow coverage. With the fresh snow/ice that morning the summit ridge was wet, slick and very cold, made the ridge pretty spicy but quite fun. The snow was softening up by the time we were back down around 11am and there was some postholing especially near the rocks. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/11/2015, By: Jrodicon
Info: I backpacked into Snowmass lake Wednesday for an attempt Thursday morning but turned back before making it around the lake.

I turned back because of the mix of bushwacking, rain, and no wind. It rained for a few days early this week and all day Wednesday as I hiked in and set up camp. There was no wind so all the bushes accumulated a lot of water on the leaves, and every time I brushed up against one, I got soaked. The trail around the lake was horribly overgrown and the willows were very thick (be aware of this obstacle, it is pretty significant), so by 15 minutes into my summit attempt at 5am, I was soaking wet and freezing and decided it wasn't worth it.

The snowmass still held a lot of snow but there are quite a few rocks poking through in spots. If you climb after a sunny day and clear night, I think it would be firm, though if it is cloudy and rainy the day and night before, I think you would post hole quite a bit and might want snowshoes. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/8/2015, By: herdbull
Info: Log jam in normal summer condition. No issues crossing even with all the rain. Route around the lake very wet. Lots of water running through the willows. Gaiters may help keeping water from drenching you in the first 10 mins of the hike.

Good conditions near the creek and across the creek. Some slick mud in some areas but not bad. Once on the upper basin it's almost a total snow crossing. You can rock jump/walk on snow but post holing will be a problem around the rocks.

Out in the open no posting and it's a straight shot on all snow all the up the basin and to the exit on the ridge. Good snow conditions even though it was somewhat soft due to not freezing at night. Your welcome to anyone that summitted on 7/4 as I was the first one up and kicked in the route for everyone :). 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 7/3/2015, By: mcquentin
Info: FR 315 from west of Marble to the Lead King Basin TH / parking area is open and dry, although there are five stream crossings up to 5m across and 40cm deep. The trail into Lead King Basin is dry with muddy areas around water runoff. Much of the trail is densely overgrown. There are patches of snow starting at 10,000' but the trail has no snow until Gem Lake. The snow is avoidable until you cross the stream and start your 2,500' ascent. The back of the basin has much snow remaining, but that is off-route. There is much snow in the draws of the west slope forming shallow vertical couloirs to the summit. The spurs of the west slope and their sides are dry. It is possible to ascend without stepping on snow once you cross the stream. On the other hand, there is a 500' snowfield below the green patch at the cliff band and up to a 1,500' snow climb shortly above that to within 75' of the summit if you prefer snow. I climbed in the snow above the cliff band up the longest stretch of snow and had plenty of support on a mostly cloudy day. I descended on rock and found the boulders on the spur spines more secure while the boulders on the sides of the spurs liked to roll easily. Will post a trip report with lots of pictures on Sunday. Conversely, the east slope approach, looking down from the summit, had far more snow, with over 60% of the ground still covered. The S Ridge is completely dry, although crossing the stream to get to it without getting wet may be a challenge. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 6/22/2015, By: mtndude3737
Info: Trail is almost completely snow free all the way to Snowmass Lake, and what little snow you cross, it is not post-holing. No snowshoes required to the lake. The trail around the lake is non-existent and quite possibly the worst bushwhacking/postholing/willows/mud I have yet to encounter on any trail. Snowshoes would be of no use. Past the lake is good pretty clean boulder scramble/minor snowfield to 12,000. Snowfields above 12,000 are firm and beautiful with crampons before 6 am. After sun hit it becomes slush pretty quickly. We left the lower group campsites at 3:10 am and summited at 8:30. Perfect glissade most of the way back to 12,000. See photo for route we took up the avalanche debris and then just to the right of the big hanging cornice just south of the summit. 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 6/18/2015, By: chevrechamoisee
Info: The road is clear of snow from Crystal to the Lead King Basin. The trail is snow free until Geneva Lake. There is still a lot of snow around the lake. It's still fairly deep in spots, so flotation is suggested. The snow to the summit was pretty solid until about 10-11 a.m. 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 6/20/2015, By: taylorzs
Info: Somewhat continuous snow starts at Geneva Lake. Skins or snowshoes are pretty essential above the lake. The
west face is in from the summit with only a little bit of Davenporting at the top and downclimbing of a few cliffs
at the bottom. We had good corn snow and a solid freeze despite an overnight low of 40F above treeline. Radiative cooling
and a breeze helped freeze the snow overnight. Great corn at approximately noon. 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 6/9/2015, By: Lindyhapa
Info: Trailhead:

Forest Road 315 (Lost Trail Road on Google Maps) to Lead King Basin is clear for 3.8 miles past the center of Marble. At that point, there is an impassible snowbank (see picture). Going this direction will add about 9.6 miles round trip to your climb. There are no vehicle tracks in the snowbanks coming from this direction. However, there are vehicle tracks in snowbanks farther down the road. Based on this, I believe that the trailhead can be accessed by a capable 4x4 via the road from Crystal.

Climb:

I started hiking at 9pm. The road has some long sections of snow, but is mostly clear. I made it to the trailhead at about midnight and began climbing the trail to Snowmass. The trail is completely clear of snow until a couple of avalanche debris fields on the beginning of the ascent by the waterfalls when the trail rejoins the creek before ascending to Geneva Lake. The slides were not fresh. They were frozen over, dirty, solid ice that has been melting for some time. From this point on, I had a hard time route finding. There aren't any footprints on the hard ice and it's easy to miss places where the trail switches back under the ice and snow. Also, be cautious about following my footprints in the snow above this point. They won't all lead you where you want to go.

The area around Geneva Lake is completely covered by snow. There's no way to follow the trail. You'll need to make your own, so bring a map and a powerful flashlight if you're doing it in the dark. Snowshoes are also necessary as of Geneva Lake.

It was a beautiful clear night and I could just see the outline of Snowmass against the dark night sky. A bright half moon had just risen and lit up the snowfield as I began to climb past Geneva Lake. At exactly 2am, I heard a loud BOOM. Thinking it was thunder, I looked up at the sky. Then I heard the sound of boulders crashing down the side of the mountain. The sound wasn't close, but it quite powerful even at a distance. An avalanche had broken loose. It was still to dark to see where, but it seemed to come directly from Snowmass.

Last weekend, the mountain showed me signs that it wasn't ready to be climbed. This time, the mountain spoke to me directly. I imagined what could have happened if that slide had come down at 3 or 4am when I was ascending the slope. I listened to the mountain and began my long trek back to the car.

My opinion is that the mountain is not yet ready to welcome us.