Snowmass Mountain

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 7/31/2019, By: Tacocat Climbing
Info: Went up the west slopes today. Drove to Crystal and tried to follow the road up as high as it I could go with my truck. Made it pretty far, to a campsite before a real rough part. It was pretty stressful driving up the road, it is really rough at parts, although the alternative road is closed due to an avalanche, so I heard.

This is a pretty tough hike, a little moreso than I was anticipating. Was able to identify the proper gully to head up by the green grass at the base of it. There is snow in the gully, but I was able to easily avoid all of it, no need for crampons or an axe (unless you plan on glissading down the bumpy and steep snow)

It is non-stop steep climbing to the summit after the lakes. I was a little worried about the weather so I went up with just 1 5min break, it was tough! The weather ended up being just fine though. Better safe than sorry!

Video of the hike: https://youtu.be/tW-li9a8zTE 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/29/2019, By: adamsjordan78
Info: Snow is avoidable for a couple hundred yards after gaining the scree field, but consistent after that until the ridge, regardless of taking the standard or more direct route. Current snowmelt has the more direct route from the route description as the much easier option. We took the standard route to gain the ridge and would have been EXTREMELY uncomfortable with anything less than spikes and an axe. Pitch somewhere around 45 degrees. Ridge is completely snow free. Took the direct variation on the way down, cornice free and probably closer to 30-35 degree pitch opposed to the possible 50 described. Smooth glisading down, although some larger boulders are beginning to present themselves. I would use caution after a couple more weeks of melt when sliding down. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/24/2019, By: Joshvirenw
Info: Heed the warning about snow in the Elks. I did Snowmass today, and I did not bring an ice axe. This was a poor decision that could have ended badly. This climb does not need the axe until the final steep pitch before you gain the ridge, but it is very important and would have helped me climb up and down this section safely. 

Route: Via Hagerman
Posted On: 7/20/2019, By: WildWanderer
Info: Snow free from Hagerman to summit (see Hagerman report for more details). Took west slope down: gullies still have snow and so does the basin above Geneva Lake. End of gullies are waterfalls. 

Route: West Slope
Posted On: 7/14/2019, By: gairbear
Info: 5.5 miles from trail head the road has a river through it. Then 4 miles from the trail head the road is completely destroyed by avalanche debris. Round trip hike will between 17 and 20 miles (not 9). Prepare accordingly or take a different route. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/15/2019, By: Vertical Wanderer
Info: From the trailhead to lake it is pretty straight forward. Paths have been cut through most of the avalanche debris. The log jam is tricky but passable without getting wet as long as you have good balance, trekking poles, or both! Still lots of snow and mud around the lake before the gully up to the snowfield. We went up the left side of the gully which is extremely loose and, unfortunately, not covered in snow anymore. Ascended the bump on the ridge to the summit, and was able to glissade down the direct variation for the decent. Still tons of snow up there that wont be melting any time soon. And if you are planning on camping at the lake, bring a fishing pole - there were dozens of 10-14 inch trout right at the creek outlet! 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/10/2019, By: Wentzl
Info: The photo is a look at Snowmass from Pyramid. Wow that is a lot of snow! 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/11/2019, By: dweiss2
Info: Heavy intermittent snow from the lake (steep traversing, not much fun). Continuous snow above the gully to the snowmass. The lake and gully to the snowmass may be the most frustrating parts of the whole climb. The gully leading to the snowmass is no longer continuous snow, so you will have to get on that cruddy loose rock unfortunately. Not too bad on the way up, but frustrating on the way down and the sketchiest part of the whole climb in my opinion. Large suncups in the snowmass proper, but there are runnels that make navigating much quicker, so follow those. Moderate snow slope leading to the ridge was just beginning to soften up at 9 AM, but supportable even at 10:30. Careful on the way down as this section could have severe consequences if you slid. Ridge to the summit is dry, with only one minor snow crossing just beyond the white rock rib that can be avoided by taking the ridge crest. Began hike at 5 AM back to the tent at 1:30. Crampons and an ice axe recommended. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/11/2019, By: davidnr
Info: There is consistent snow starting at the lake.
The path around the willows is dodgy and inconsistent due to avalanche debris.

The boulder field is cake because it is covered with snow.

The first gully was shedding snow fast when I was there yesterday.

Above it is all snow except for the back side of the summit ridge.

I used an ice axe and micro spikes. Had one slip and self-arrested. I recommend going up the standard route.

I did glissade off the variation. It was a blast!

Unless you are a really strong and fast climber I recommend camping out the night before. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/6/2019, By: dcsheldon
Info: Hiked to Snowmass Lake on 7/4 and to the peak of Snowmass Mtn on 7/5. Hiked out on 7/6.
There are several avalanche debris fields on the way to the lake. One was a bit of a pain just past the creek crossing. But nothing that would stop you.
Based on previous reports we brought swim shoes to cross the creek just below the log jam. With trekking poles this was not difficult. Not sure if I'd have kept my balance without the poles. The current wasn't that powerful where we crossed but with a heavy pack it could push you some.
There is a lot of snow in camping area but a few spots can be found on both sides of the creek drainage.
Hiking the side of the lake was mostly snow. Crampons/ice axe were helpful here. In a few of the spots without traction you could easily slide into the lake. In the morning this snow was solid. On the hike back it was softer and some post holing but nothing terrible.
The gully from the lake to the snow mass was snow filled where the drainage is. It was better to stay in the snow with crampons/ax than hike in the scree/dirt.
After getting up the gully it is all snow to the ridge crest. Lots of snow and we were able to just walk on top of it up and down. Crampons and axe are necessary to get to the ridge crest. We opted for the bump on the left side. This was completely snow and steep. Coming down you could glissade some parts. There was a group of 3 skiers and a snow boarder.
From the ridge crest to the summit, snow can be avoided and there isn't much.
Totally clear blue skies and warm. I'm not sure if it was below 40 the two nights we camped. I'm guessing in 2 to 3 weeks the camping area will be more significantly melted out.
Pic 1 - where we crossed the creek below log jam. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/5/2019, By: CUhikR
Info: Log jam is loose but passable. We were able to cross the logs only having to get into ankle deep water at the very end. The rest we were able to do dry. Trekking poles were quite helpful.

Snow is still all around the lake but at least 10 campsites are dry. Snow was very soft & loose going up the gully from the lake. We made it 2/3 up to the steeper section and we're post holing frequently. Decided to turn back ~11,700'. Spoke to another group that made it up to 13,800 but had the same post holing issue right underneath the ridge. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 7/1/2019, By: carlycaprio
Info: We started the trail around 7pm. There was a group of 3 in the parking lot who had just finished and reassured us the log jam was passable. The trail is beautiful and free of snow until snow patches around 5.75 miles, we found camp around here about 9:30pm. The next morning started with high hopes when we arrived to the log jam. However, the water level was VERY high and seemed to have moved most of the logs out of place. It looks doable from one side of the pond. We made it about half way across the jam, adding logs when we could, but eventually came to a place where we found it to be unstable reckoning for a alpine bath. It could be passable if you're willing to get wet, but we didn't have back up clothes to take that option. Gators or a light weight floatation device would have served us well had we thought of that. It is passable as previous trip reports have said, just wasn't for us that day. Still incredibly beautiful and refreshing to be up in the crisp Aspen air. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 6/30/2019, By: papaprazak
Info: Hiked in Friday 6/28. We brought waders to get across the creek near the log jam which worked remarkably well, we crossed just below the jam and water didn't get above mid thigh (I'm 6 feet). Saw three groups turn around at the log jam as it's still relatively impassable without getting wet. On the other side of the creek, snow was patchy to nearly constant once you got up at the lake, however there were two campsites that were completely snow free right at the lake. From there the route is entirely covered in snow up until the ridge. The ridge itself is entirely snow free so we opted to stick to that instead of trying to cross some patchy slush/snow that shifted easily (there was no freeze the night before). The ridge did require a few difficult class 3/easy class 4 moves with exposure but was feasible. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 6/24/2019, By: Bryan 1960
Info: I was planning to ski the snowfield the weekend of June 29, but hiked up Saturday 6/22 to recon the route (45 degrees, periodic rain on 6/22/19). IMO, the logjam is currently impassable, at least for me. The lake/pond/marsh is very swollen to the point that the logs in the logjam are buoyed and will move, shift and rotate under your weight. The high water level has reduced the stability of the logs to the point that I felt that trying to cross it was a poor decision. Others may deem the the risk acceptable, but in my view the mountain will still be there in a few weeks when the water is lower, the logs are stable and the temps are warmer.

Other notes:

1. the avy debris paths others have mentioned have been cleaned up to the point that they no longer slow you down - other than to gawk at the enormous amount of energy released in these slides.

2. Snowmass creek is raging torrent. Really impressive and deafening when the trail gets close to it..

3. From the view up bear creek at 4 miles it is amazing how much snow is still at the higher elevations. This leads me to believe that the logjam lake will remain swollen and the logs unstable for some time to come.

4. I started to encounter small snow deposits over the trail at about 5.75 miles, but nothing more than this up to the logjam at about 6.5 miles.

5. Very few tracks in the small snowfields leads me to think very few people have been up there this Spring. I doubt if anyone has summited from the East Slopes route since the very impressive guy on 4/21, when the logjam was likely frozen in place and stable.

Bottom line here, at least for me, is that the logjam is unstable and represents a significant risk of taking a freezing bath. It seems likely to stay that way for quite awhile given the enormous amount of snow still on the peaks that drain into Snowmass Lake/Snowmass Creek. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 6/9/2019, By: Fly Agaric
Info: High water on approach.

I did not even make it to the lake. The water was running high at the Beaver Dam when we made our approach near Sunset on Friday. My wife thought a ford would be possible in the morning, but I didn't think it looked good when we got up early. I admit, getting wet in the cool of the morning was a big disincentive. I don't mind the cold or snow, but I don't like being wet. I'm a mountain hiker, not a swimmer, after all.

Others have been making it up to the lake earlier in the season, but I talked to some locals on the trail and they said water is running Very High right now compared to when they made it up to the lake earlier in the season. It's not impossible, just plan accordingly.

We did spend some time looking for an alternate place to ford the creek in the muddy, snowy, slushy, willow-infested flats before the trails switchbacks to the lake but had no luck.

I can add a photo or two.

All the other info about approach stands: snow starts at about 10,000 feet and is fairly consistent but slushy, unstable, and melting fast. Had snowshoes and they helped, but there was still a lot of post-holing and slip-sliding. Still several massive avalanche debris piles, the first one being the most difficult to navigate — we opted to go downhill through willows rather than over.

I highly doubted I was going to make it to the summit for a lot of reasons, but I had hoped to give it a try or at least enjoy the scenery from the lake. Very disappointing that I was turned back so early on the approach. On to some summits later.

Hoping to come back later in the summer.