Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

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ellenmseb
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Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by ellenmseb »

Since LB-B does not have an official route description on 14ers.com, what's the best route resource that you've found?

so far I found these:
  • Roach's description if you have the book

I realize that in general, one shouldn't rely on excellent, detailed route descriptions like 14ers.com has. It almost feels like cheating. I wouldn't find such detailed descriptions for any other mountain besides Colorado 14ers. However, LB-B traverse is so difficult that I'll take as much "cheating" as I can get.
Last edited by ellenmseb on Thu Sep 03, 2020 3:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: LB-B traverse best route description

Post by CaptainSuburbia »

It's not cheating. It's being smart! Use all the resources you can for a safe climb.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by justiner »

I think reading the terrain is still really important. Don't make a bad decision if you think the terrain and your beta seems to differ - could be that the beta isn't for the terrain you're actually looking at. From the three times I've gone across the three points to remember are:

* go left of the ridge when things get tough
* except for the last tower, when you go right
* don't summit Captain Bivowaco Tower

That's all you need.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by markf »

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/1 ... a-traverse

Here's one more source of information. I'd like to suggest climbing the NW Face of Little Bear instead of the W Ridge/ Hourglass route. Less crowded, so less chance of rocks getting knocked down on you.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by ellenmseb »

Thanks! We're going on labor day, so crowds/rockfall is an issue. NW face also seems to have the advantage that it upclimbs a wall that must later be downclimbed as the first crux of the traverse. I'll check if my partner supports this idea.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by OldTrad »

ellenmseb wrote: Thu Sep 03, 2020 2:59 pm Since LB-B does not have an official route description on 14ers.com, what's the best route resource that you've found?

so far I found these:
  • Roach's description if you have the book

I realize that in general, one shouldn't rely on excellent, detailed route descriptions like 14ers.com has. It almost feels like cheating. I wouldn't find such detailed descriptions for any other mountain besides Colorado 14ers. However, LB-B traverse is so difficult that I'll take as much "cheating" as I can get.
This guy included lots more detail and pics/directions in his tr:
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=19042

Here’s the thing though. Once you’re up there I think you will discover that this much detail becomes less relevant because you will find yourself in the moment as your instincts kick in. So if you remember anything at all remember this:
- try to use good judgement. If a section seems too hard or risky then find another way
- in general, most tricky or confusing sections are solved by staying on the north side of the ridge (except the 1st tower of course)
- do NOT assume that everything is solid. Test any hold (thump on it and listen for solid/hollow sound) before deciding whether to grab/pull on it

Re: NW Face and having to navigate the top ridge on LB twice. Yes, it’s tricky and considered a “crux” by some, but IMO the larger issue of maintaining your concentration for several hours of safe passage is a WAY bigger challenge, albeit a fun and engaging one. If climbing that section of the ridge twice seems too daunting then perhaps reconsider whether you are comfortable, ready and confident enough to be up there at all.

All that aside, be safe and have a blast!
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by XterraRob »

ellenmseb wrote: Thu Sep 03, 2020 2:59 pm Since LB-B does not have an official route description on 14ers.com, what's the best route resource that you've found?

so far I found these:
  • Roach's description if you have the book

I realize that in general, one shouldn't rely on excellent, detailed route descriptions like 14ers.com has. It almost feels like cheating. I wouldn't find such detailed descriptions for any other mountain besides Colorado 14ers. However, LB-B traverse is so difficult that I'll take as much "cheating" as I can get.
Not going off-route and dying is pretty cool.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by Will_E »

I pretty much suck at route finding, but had very little issue on LB-Blanca. Didn’t even have a GPX file to use.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by greenonion »

[/quote]
- do NOT assume that everything is solid. Test any hold (thump on it and listen for solid/hollow sound) before deciding whether to grab/pull on it
[/quote]

Preaching mostly to the choir here, but for those who are attending this church for the first time... Pull DOWN on rocks as if pulling them into whatever they are part of. As opposed to pulling out on them toward yourself. Much more likely for a rock to dislodge when pulling out/toward yourself than pulling down. And just be careful with any rock grabbing/pulling in precarious situations.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by ellenmseb »

Thanks everyone! We did end up doing little bear NW face and the traverse. It was a great challenge and awesome capstone to this season considering snow may prevent any more challenging routes.
OldTrad wrote: Fri Sep 04, 2020 9:03 am. If climbing that section of the ridge twice seems too daunting then perhaps reconsider whether you are comfortable, ready and confident enough to be up there at all.

All that aside, be safe and have a blast!
To clarify, I meant that it's an ADVANTAGE to upclimb and scope out this section before downclimbing it. But, this downclimb is actually easier than downclimbs just slightly further on the ridge. It wasn't hard enough to warrant choosing NW face for that reason, although NW face is also a perfectly good way to get up Little Bear. SW ridge sounds terrible, hourglass would've been fine, but NW face is a good alternative if you want to avoid rockfall.

We ended up relying most on this trip report: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=19042

The information that we most needed and couldn't "Intuit" was:
* Bypass the first big tower on the right
* Summit the 2nd 2 towers because there is actually minimal downclimb on the other side, even though in-person it looks like there would be a big downclimb.

This is different from what Justiner said. Nothing against Justiner's route, I just happened to be referring to the trip report instead of this thread lol.

We didn't summit captain bivwacko of course. I didn't see why anyone would be tempted to summit it. There is obviously a a downclimb on the other side.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by Scott P »

ellenmseb wrote: Tue Sep 08, 2020 11:34 am Thanks everyone! We did end up doing little bear NW face and the traverse.
If it was yesterday, my son and I met you on the summit of Little Bear. :-D

Good job on the traverse.
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Re: Little bear-Blanca traverse best route description

Post by ellenmseb »

Yep Scott I think I met you if you came up from the hourglass around 10am!