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Mount Harvard

snow South Face
Difficulty Class 2 
Snow Steepness: Moderate 
Ski/Board: Advanced, D6 / R3 / III  
Risk FactorsExposure: Moderate
Rockfall: Moderate  
Route-Finding: Considerable  
Commitment: Considerable  
 
Start9,900 feet
Summit14,424 feet
Total Gain4,600 feet
RT Length13.75 miles
Last UpdatedJul 2025
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Snow Only Route
This route should only be climbed with consolidated, stable snow, usually in spring or early summer. In mid-winter, many snow routes have frequent risk of avalanche.

Trailhead

In Buena Vista, 1/2 mile north of the center of town, turn west onto County Road 350 (Crossman Ave.) and measure mileage from here. Continue on CR 350 for 2 miles and turn right onto CR 361. At 3 miles, turn left onto CR 365 (dirt). Continue for over 5 miles to the reach the trailhead and end of the road, at 8.1 miles. The trail starts on the west side of the parking loop.

Route Description

This is a winter/spring snow route and is NOT recommended as a summer hiking route. From the trailhead, follow the Mt. Harvard - South Slopes Route to reach Horn Fork Basin ( 1,  2). Since this is a snow route, you're likely to ascend a snow-covered basin—simply hike north along the right side of the basin. Near 12,100' pass a small hill on its right side to reach the junction between the standard Harvard route and this route ( 3).

Turn slightly right (northeast) and continue along the left (west) side of the drainage coming down from Harvard's south face. Instead of ascending the center of the drainage, it's easier to stay a bit up on the left side. Above 12,400' angle left (northwest) to bring Harvard's south face into view ( 4). Once you reach 12,800', the south face will be in full view ( 5). From the upper end of the basin/drainage, take some time to study the south face and the location of the summit ( 6). This route ascends the gully on the right side face ( 7). It's easy to identify the gully by the rock outcroppings on its right side and a gendarme halfway up.

Hike north to the base of the gully and begin climbing ( 8). The steepness starts out in the mid 20 degrees and has a maximum angle of approx. 39 degrees, near 13,700'. Continue ( 9,  10) to 13,500' where the gendarme will lie off to your right ( 11). Depending on snow coverage, you may encounter some rocky sections in the middle of the gully. Pick your line and ascend higher ( 13). Near 14,000' the gully begins to widen out and the summit is up to your left. Angle left and crest the left side of the upper gully to see the summit area ( 14).

The actual summit is on the left end of the ridge and, depending on snow coverage, there are several ways to reach the top. Hike west/northwest across an upper snowfield to reach the difficulties below the summit ridge ( 15). Pick your line and climb to the top ( 16,  17).  18 looks east along the summit ridge. If you are descending via the same route, remember to turn left in the upper snow field to reconnect with the top of the ascent gully.

Skiing?

Leaving the summit:  19
Entering the gully:  20
Skiing the gully:  21,  22,  23
Exiting the drainage:  24

Notes

IMPORTANT: This route enters the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness area. Designated wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.

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Weather

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