This is a winter/spring snow route and is NOT recommended as a summer hiking route. From the trailhead, follow the
Mt. Harvard - South Slopes Route to reach Horn Fork Basin (
1,
2). Since this is a snow route, you're likely to ascend a snow-covered basin—simply hike north along the right side of the basin. Near 12,100' pass a small hill on its right side to reach the junction between the standard Harvard route and this route (
3).
Turn slightly right (northeast) and continue along the left (west) side of the drainage coming down from Harvard's south face. Instead of ascending the center of the drainage, it's easier to stay a bit up on the left side. Above 12,400' angle left (northwest) to bring Harvard's south face into view (
4). Once you reach 12,800', the south face will be in full view (
5). From the upper end of the basin/drainage, take some time to study the south face and the location of the summit (
6). This route ascends the gully on the right side face (
7). It's easy to identify the gully by the rock outcroppings on its right side and a gendarme halfway up.
Hike north to the base of the gully and begin climbing (
8). The steepness starts out in the mid 20 degrees and has a maximum angle of approx. 39 degrees, near 13,700'. Continue (
9,
10) to 13,500' where the gendarme will lie off to your right (
11). Depending on snow coverage, you may encounter some rocky sections in the middle of the gully. Pick your line and ascend higher (
13). Near 14,000' the gully begins to widen out and the summit is up to your left. Angle left and crest the left side of the upper gully to see the summit area (
14).
The actual summit is on the left end of the ridge and, depending on snow coverage, there are several ways to reach the top. Hike west/northwest across an upper snowfield to reach the difficulties below the summit ridge (
15). Pick your line and climb to the top (
16,
17).
18 looks east along the summit ridge. If you are descending via the same route, remember to turn left in the upper snow field to reconnect with the top of the ascent gully.