Follow
this route description to the top of the Pagoda couloir, or access the Pagoda-Keyboard saddle via other routes or linkups. This summit may be reached by descending the ridge from Longs as well, using the above linked beta to navigate the "Dark Tower" cliff band.
From the Pagoda-Keyboard saddle, survey the ridge to the north
3. Keyboard of the Winds is a collection of seven (unofficially) named towers. The true, USGS-designated summit is the third tower to the north of the saddle. Also called Mrs. Stubbs, it is the first actual tower as seen from this point, and it is also the most prominent of the seven by a significant margin. (Also see
LoJ and discussion in comments
here.)
Walk north past the offset twin prows of Sievers and Jackpot Towers towards the south face of the Keyboard tower
1. There are several distinct climbing lines here, and there may be slightly easier (5.7) routes to the east. This route ascends a relatively clean series of cracks and perpendicular corners towards the left side of the south face
2 5 7. It felt on the easier end of 5.8 to us with positive holds, fun jams, and decent rests.
Ryan's
climbing beta: Follow blockier corner terrain for first half until reaching a hand/fist crack. Stem and jam the corner crack
8. Belay off summit boulders. There is some webbing up there, but you might need to supplement it.
A 60m single rope works, but 35m doubles or a 70 offers better flexibility for the rappel. A single rack to #4 would sew it up. Bring a couple long slings for the belay and some material to augment the rappel as needed.
GPX File
