Log In 
Photo

Sunlight Peak

 South Face
Difficulty Class 4 
Risk FactorsExposure: Extreme!
Rockfall Potential: Considerable  
Route-Finding: Considerable  
Commitment: Considerable  
 
TrailheadNeedleton
Start11,100 feet
Summit14,061 feet
Total Gain3,000 feet starting at Chicago Basin
6,000 feet starting at Needleton
RT Length6 miles starting at Chicago Basin
17 miles starting at Needleton
Last UpdatedApr 2025
Show More
Photo

Trailhead

Drive to Durango and follow signs to the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. It's near McDonald's and has a large parking area nearby. Buy a ticket for the train that stops at Needleton and ride the train 2.5 hours (~30 miles) to the Needleton stop. From here, it's a 6 mile hike to reach Chicago Basin.

Route Description

First, use the Chicago Basin Approach to reach Chicago Basin where dispersed camp sites can be found between 10,800' and 11,100'. From your high camp, follow the well-established trail northeast toward the end of the basin ( 1). Near 11,200', turn left toward Twin Lakes at a signed junction ( 2). This trail provides access to Windom, Sunlight, and Eolus. Ascend through remaining forest ( 3) until the trail becomes less defined as you navigate over and around some rocky slabs ( 4). Near 11,400', exit the trees to see two streams on the slope beneath Twin Lakes ( 5). At 11,700', cross the first stream, veer right, and follow switchbacks up steeper terrain ( 6). Continue to the second stream crossing, near 12,300' ( 7). Haul a bit higher to reach Twin Lakes at 12,500' ( 8).

Stay right and follow the trail east around the first lake ( 9). Shortly after, veer right again and ascend via switchbacks up a slope ( 10). After the trail swings back toward the middle of the basin and levels off, continue to a prominent cairn above 13,000' ( 11). Continue a bit further east to another cairn ( 12). At this point, cairns diverge left toward Sunlight Peak. Follow the cairns as you head east for a short distance, then turn left to cross the basin and pick up a trail ascending toward the gully between Sunlight and "Sunlight Spire" ( 13). Upon reaching the gully , climb toward the saddle at its top ( 14). Near the saddle, turn left and climb into a notch ( 15).

The remaining route involves Class 3 climbing and some route finding ( 16). From the notch, climb upward and traverse beneath cliffs ( 17,  18), continuing up ( 19) until you reach a point where you may find a hole in the ridge ( 20). It is possible to pass through this hole to approach the summit, but doing so will require more challenging ledge climbing on the ridge's east side. Instead, stay to the left, descending slightly to reach another section of steep rock ( 21). Look for cairns or identify the easiest path upward and climb this section. After completing this short climb, ascend to the left to find a small chimney with a hole at its top ( 22,  23). Climb through the hole, turn left, and continue to the summit block ( 24,  25). The final summit pitch is highly exposed, but the rock provides good grip when dry. Choose your line and gain the summit ( 26,  27,  28).

To climb Windom after Sunlight: Descend the gully to reach the center of the basin near 13,200' and traverse south to Windom's west ridge -  29. Then follow the upper portions of the Windom Peak West Ridge route description. Combining Sunlight and Windom via a crossover in the basin results in a round-trip distance of nearly 7 miles and an elevation gain of approximately 4,000 feet from a camp in Chicago Basin.

Notes

IMPORTANT: This route enters the Weminuche Wilderness area. Designated wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 #12 #13 #14 #15 #16 #17 #18 #19 #20 #21 #22 #23 #24 #25 #26 #27 #28 #29

This page is only available to registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

This page is only available to registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

This page is only available to registered 14ers.com users. If you don't have an account, you can register in the forum.

Log In_

Caution: The information contained in this route may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this route provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the route author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
Heading to a 14er soon? Don't forget the 14ers.com mobile app.
Google Play     Apple App Store