First, use the
Chicago Basin Approach to reach Chicago Basin where dispersed camp sites can be found between 10,800' and 11,100'. From your high camp, follow the well-established trail northeast toward the end of the basin (
1). Near 11,200', turn left toward Twin Lakes at a signed junction
(
2). This trail provides access to Windom, Sunlight, and Eolus. Ascend through remaining forest (
3) until the trail becomes less defined as you navigate over and around some rocky slabs (
4). Near 11,400', exit the trees to see two streams on the slope beneath Twin Lakes (
5). At 11,700', cross the first stream, veer right, and follow switchbacks up steeper terrain (
6). Continue to the second stream crossing, near 12,300' (
7). Haul a bit higher to reach Twin Lakes at 12,500' (
8).
Stay right and follow the trail east around the first lake
(
9). Shortly after, veer right again and ascend via switchbacks up a slope (
10). After the trail swings back toward the middle of the basin and levels off, continue to a prominent cairn above 13,000' (
11). Continue a bit further east to another cairn (
12). At this point, cairns diverge left toward Sunlight Peak. Follow the cairns as you head east for a short distance, then turn left to cross the basin and pick up a trail ascending toward the gully between Sunlight and "Sunlight Spire" (
13). Upon reaching the gully
, climb toward the saddle at its top (
14). Near the saddle, turn left and climb into a notch
(
15).
The remaining route involves Class 3 climbing and some route finding (
16). From the notch, climb upward and traverse beneath cliffs (
17,
18), continuing up (
19) until you reach a point where you may find a hole in the ridge (
20). It is possible to pass through this hole to approach the summit, but doing so will require more challenging ledge climbing on the ridge's east side. Instead, stay to the left, descending slightly to reach another section of steep rock (
21). Look for cairns or identify the easiest path upward and climb this section. After completing this short climb, ascend to the left to find a small chimney with a hole at its top (
22,
23). Climb through the hole, turn left, and continue to the summit block (
24,
25). The final summit pitch is highly exposed, but the rock provides good grip when dry. Choose your line and gain the summit (
26,
27,
28).
To climb Windom after Sunlight: Descend the gully to reach the center of the basin near 13,200' and traverse south to Windom's west ridge -
29. Then follow the upper portions of the
Windom Peak West Ridge route description. Combining Sunlight and Windom via a crossover in the basin results in a round-trip distance of nearly 7 miles and an elevation gain of approximately 4,000 feet from a camp in Chicago Basin.