Sunlight Peak

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/25/2026, By: wmagnuson7
Info: Almost entirely summer conditions, but a small patch of snow just before the climb to the summit. It can be easily bypassed to the left, but fairly exposed (but then again, if you are doing this climb, you are comfortable with exposure). There are also short (100 feet?) snowfields in the lower basin. Enjoy! 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/13/2026, By: Craig Barlow
Info: Started from Chicago Basin at 4:30am. Crossed 2 snowfields on the way to the Eolus / North Eolus saddle. Snow was still firm as it was 6am, but managed both very easily with trail runners and poles by utilizing previous bootprints. North Eolus summit at 6:35am, Eolus summit at 7:15am. One small snow patch ro cross at base of Eolus with very nice footprints through other. Snow softening on the way down by 8am was great for bootsking and no postholing.

Back to Twin Lakes at 8:35am, then started up Sunlight. Some low angle (almost flat) snowfields with postholing near the edges, still solid in the middles. One very minor snowfield to cross about 100' below the summit which has great footprints through it and this can also be avoided. Sunlight summit at 9:55am.

Large snowfield to cross in the bowl between Sunlight and Windom. Following previous footprints worked OK, but bad postholing otherwise now around 10:45am. A couple tiny snowfields just below Windom summit at 11:45am with good footprints through them.

In summary, you don't really need any traction if you are experienced, imo.

Continued to Jupiter after Windom. The snow up the north face was horrific and I was swimming up to my waist in soft snow. Finally got to a rock rib which saved me and was Class 2. A couple final short steep snowfields before getting to the summit ridge were actually pretty firm and I used the pick of my axe (didn't have crampons) but my trail runners were able to just get enough purchase. No snow on summit ridge or on descent towards Columbine Pass trail. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 5/26/2026, By: slawrence2011
Info: Thanks to Eric Ahlstedt on the great beta for all of these that inspired me to make the trip! Overall, similar conditions to his description 10 days ago. Mostly continuous snow above twin lakes. Main changes I noticed were basin below Eolus is drying out a lot, but can still ski down to twin lakes via the N Eolus exit. Also, Eolus NE couloir is much worse, especially at the bottom, some big rocks showing and snow runneling, still went barely.

The Sunlight south face is in very well, skied from 13,9 at the tunnel. Dry summit scramble, I was lame and stayed two blocks below the true summit, since I have done it before in proper footwear and I was in ski boots. Reversing the class 3 moves was hard enough. Snow was softening just enough for skiing just before 10:30. This one may last for another few weeks, a couple choke moves will get pretty hard soon. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 5/14/2026, By: ericahlstedt
Info: The trail to to chicago basin and up to twin lakes is pretty much dry and snow free. There is continuous snow at and after twin lakes.

The S face of sunlight has continuous snow from Twin Lakes to the Sunlight "rock tunnel." It was enjoyable corn skiing at around 1030am. We continued on to Windom Peak, and then to the Eoluses. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/28/2025, By: kempenjn
Info: Snow/rain came in afternoon 9/26. Route got pretty soaked, more forecasted for 9/27-29 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 8/8/2025, By: JoeDan4th
Info: Perfectly dry all the way up. Scree field climb to the saddle is fairly dry and loose, but stick to the larger rocks and you'll be fine. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/15/2025, By: climbingyogi
Info: In photo 21, I chose the right line on the ascent. Was fine going up that way, but there's some snow and ice on the ground right below it so I was hesitant to come down that way. Ended up taking the left line on the descent and that worked well.

Did Windom first and crossed over to Sunlight around 830/9am. Was able to band together a section of rocks for the crossover that only required a small section of butt sliding (looked like the post holes would be pretty deep so I wanted to avoid that). 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/7/2025, By: psa954hiker
Info: We climbed Eolus and N Eolus, but took this photo of the saddle between Windom and Sunlight. Some snowfields remain. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/2/2025, By: kylefwip
Info: No snow going up standard route, but some decent snow if you cross from higher up on windom over to sunlight or vice versa. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/3/2025, By: LSchmidt75
Info: Snow clear on Sunlight with the exception of some relatively small non-technical snow fields starting at Twin Lakes. Once we reached the final push to the summit, we found some snow and ice that was manageable but took some time to navigate, especially on the approach to the keyhole. We did the Sunlight / Windom combo and were happy to have microspikes and ice axes for the Windom snow field (see the separate Windom peak conditions report). The most efficient route for the combo would normally be Sunlight then Windom - avoiding a bigger descent - but if you're going in the next 1-2 weeks, consider doing Windom first to hit the snow field early in the morning to avoid some bad postholing when the sun warms up. We talked to a few groups who did Windom to Sunlight and it worked well for them. Would consider current routes up Sunlight to be a Class III (avoiding snow and ice at the top), not counting the Class IV "leap of faith" to the summit block - which we did not attempt! - significant upper body scrambling and route-finding. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/27/2025, By: puckpunk
Info: There is still considerable snow in the valley between Windom & Sunlight. Depending on the direction and pitch, it ranges from solid to waist deep (and maybe bottomless!) postholey. You will encounter snow as soon as you reach Twin Lakes. If attempting both Windom and Sunlight, starting with Windom will allow you to glissade from the saddle (whee!) right to the cairn that marks the trail between, and save some steps and time. From there, you can alternate between snow & rock patches before meeting the ascent trail on the other side. The climb up the gully is loose, and there are 2 snow patches left in the final class 3 terrain to the top, but they are short and manageable. The trip back to Twin Lakes was later in the day and the snow below was much softer at that point, but there were still some spots where you could breathe deep, think feather light thoughts, and stay on top! 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 5/15/2025, By: AlpineSplit
Info: Sunlight has been a bit sun affected, riding was just OK. Things are melting off the summit and probably won't be ridable after a few more days of sun. Lots of shedding on the main face. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 12/23/2024, By: paulbarish
Info: Very safe but physically brutal! Took the train to Cascade Wye (much better than hiking from purgatory like I did for Eolus a few winter ago). Expected to be on skis out of the gate but ended up walking in approach shoes until shortly after needle creek when I could FINALLY switch to skinning! Luckily there were plenty of down trees blocking the trail so lots of transitions haha. Camped at 11k. Many running water sources available just above. At least 3 good ones within 20 of the trail. The trail is mixed snow and rock until Twin Lakes where it was hard packed all the way until 13k where you turn onto the south face of sunlight. Then it needed flotation but skied like a sheet of ice (over to Windom). Skinning this section was heinous and Ski crampons would have been awesome. Upper mountain had post holing that could be avoided with extra scrambling. Overall the snow was soft and not very supportive. Summit block was tricky in ski boots, but it was my first time so maybe I could have done it an easier way . I skied from approximately 13700 over to Windom trying to lose as little vert as possible, then stashed skis and took a Rocky rib on the north face to link with the ridge. I skied from 13400 to twin lakes easily then on and off skis until the prominent switchback in the trail around 11800. I took skis on and off probably 30 times in the next few miles and I skied through a lot of stuff that people who care about their skis wouldnt have! Then proceeded to pack up camp and go all the way back to Cascade Wye to catch the train. Overall, I think snowshoes would have been easier and saved a lot of energy, probably in the end faster. More snow will help a lot. Yesterday was a 22.5 hour day and I suffered more than I expected! I hope this helps someone. Happy solstice!!! 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 10/8/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Sunlight Peak on the south facing side is bone dry. The route to the top is in summer conditions. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/28/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Did not attempt this but thought the pics would be helpful from Windom. Route appears clear with no snow (confirmed by couple on the train). See pics.