Snowmass Mountain Trip Report 06/23/2010

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Snowmass Mountain - 14,105 feet
Date Posted	06/23/2010
Date Climbed	06/20/2010
Author	ksegasser

Father`s Day on Snowmass
Snowmass, East Slopes Route The bags were packed, the weather was predicted to be fantastic, it was almost 5am, and we were off for Snowmass. Shawn (Rainier_Wolfcastle), his wife Kathy, and I were on the well defined trail heading in to see what we could see. We didn't know where the next few days would take us, but we had some very heavy packs with enough provisions to be out for 4 days. We knew we were going to attempt Snowmass for sure, but if that went well, and the conditions were right, we were considering doing a big loop to hit Capital also. Shawn came across this great route description from CONative that included both peaks over a 27mile loop. After about 4 miles the objective comes into view. After 6 miles we hit the log jam. Compared to some pictures I have seen, it was in great shape. The logs were well above water and very stable. The only problem was this giant porcupine that was hanging out in the middle of the jam. Sorry I don't have a better picture, but he is on the logs to the right of the people in the photos. After a few more miles we came to the beautiful Snowmass Lake. There was one other person at the lake taking in the beauty. Wow! With our heavy packs on we started around the lake. If we were going to continue on after Snowmass, the route proceeds from the west side of the lake over Heckert pass. The trail around the lake was difficult with the heavy packs, willows, snow, mud - yuck! We finally got to the west side and were able to see that Heckert pass was completely melted out. So..., no loop to Capital for us, but we had to figure out our next step. Should we camp and do Snowmass tomorrow, or take advantage of the beautiful day and give it a try right now? We had lunch by the lake and deliberated. Normally I would not support a late day summit attempt, but Mother Nature was giving us this great gift so we decided to go for it. The trail through the boulder field and up the scree slope was uneventful. Once you reach the top of the scree climb you see just the immense snowfield and the remaining route before you. The snow was in great condition. It was firm, but not icy and we didn't put our crampons on until a quarter of the way through. As we approach the ridge the slope steepens and we begin to use our axes. We entered the ridge to the right of a small cornice, which looked like a great access point from below. It was okay, but since the weather has been warming there was a large gap between the snow and the rock wall. Big drop if you fall in and it would be very difficult to get out. There was enough snow after the separation from the rock to provide a narrow walkway, but I wouldn't recommend going this way. As the snow continues to melt it will become worse. Once on the ridge the wind was really picking up. There was still a fair bit of snow blocking the standard route which goes right below the ridge. We didn't feel comfortable crossing these snow patches due to the drop off, so we elected to stay on the ridge for the remainder of the climb. The climbing was still Class 3, but there was one strange section that at first looks to be very difficult. You will come to a big block that looks much harder then Class 3, but if you go to the right of the block section there is a horizontal rock platform you can climb up that takes you into this vertical corner with great ledges. It is surprisingly easier than it looks If you do this route in the next few weeks, you might find yourself here, but I would guess the standard route would be melted out in the next week or two if the temperatures stay warm. The views from the summit were breathtaking and we had it all to ourselves! It was getting late and we still needed to get down and navigate back around the lake with our big packs so we headed out. We didn't want to leave the ridge the same way we came in so we went farther down to a large notch that we were hoping would have good access. In the red is the route we took up and in the blue is the route we took down. The way we went down was much better and we would have taken it both ways if we would have known. It was steep at the beginning, so we started walking down, face in with our axes in use. About a hundred feet down the slope eases and we had a very long, enjoyable glissade. Once we finally came to a stop Rainier_Wolfcastle noticed that his crampons, which were tied onto his summit pack, had come off. He went back up a little ways looking for them, but the glissade was so long they could be anywhere. We were tired, it had been a long day and he decided to accept their loss as a mountain sacrifice. If anyone finds them, please contact him for their return. We got back down to the lake, broke out the stove and had a lovely mountain house dinner. We didn't want to, but we loaded on the packs and trudged back around the lake to set up camp. We slept well that night and headed out after sleeping in the next morning. Back to the car with no issue. What a fabulous Father's Day! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Father`s Day on Snowmass

Snowmass, East Slopes Route

The bags were packed, the weather was predicted to be fantastic, it was almost 5am, and we were off for Snowmass. Shawn (Rainier_Wolfcastle), his wife Kathy, and I were on the well defined trail heading in to see what we could see. We didn't know where the next few days would take us, but we had some very heavy packs with enough provisions to be out for 4 days. We knew we were going to attempt Snowmass for sure, but if that went well, and the conditions were right, we were considering doing a big loop to hit Capital also. Shawn came across this great route description from CONative that included both peaks over a 27mile loop.

After about 4 miles the objective comes into view.

After 6 miles we hit the log jam. Compared to some pictures I have seen, it was in great shape. The logs were well above water and very stable. The only problem was this giant porcupine that was hanging out in the middle of the jam. Sorry I don't have a better picture, but he is on the logs to the right of the people in the photos.

After a few more miles we came to the beautiful Snowmass Lake. There was one other person at the lake taking in the beauty. Wow!

With our heavy packs on we started around the lake. If we were going to continue on after Snowmass, the route proceeds from the west side of the lake over Heckert pass. The trail around the lake was difficult with the heavy packs, willows, snow, mud - yuck! We finally got to the west side and were able to see that Heckert pass was completely melted out. So..., no loop to Capital for us, but we had to figure out our next step. Should we camp and do Snowmass tomorrow, or take advantage of the beautiful day and give it a try right now? We had lunch by the lake and deliberated. Normally I would not support a late day summit attempt, but Mother Nature was giving us this great gift so we decided to go for it.

The trail through the boulder field and up the scree slope was uneventful. Once you reach the top of the scree climb you see just the immense snowfield and the remaining route before you. The snow was in great condition. It was firm, but not icy and we didn't put our crampons on until a quarter of the way through.

As we approach the ridge the slope steepens and we begin to use our axes.

We entered the ridge to the right of a small cornice, which looked like a great access point from below. It was okay, but since the weather has been warming there was a large gap between the snow and the rock wall. Big drop if you fall in and it would be very difficult to get out. There was enough snow after the separation from the rock to provide a narrow walkway, but I wouldn't recommend going this way. As the snow continues to melt it will become worse.

Once on the ridge the wind was really picking up. There was still a fair bit of snow blocking the standard route which goes right below the ridge. We didn't feel comfortable crossing these snow patches due to the drop off, so we elected to stay on the ridge for the remainder of the climb. The climbing was still Class 3, but there was one strange section that at first looks to be very difficult. You will come to a big block that looks much harder then Class 3, but if you go to the right of the block section there is a horizontal rock platform you can climb up that takes you into this vertical corner with great ledges. It is surprisingly easier than it looks

If you do this route in the next few weeks, you might find yourself here, but I would guess the standard route would be melted out in the next week or two if the temperatures stay warm.

The views from the summit were breathtaking and we had it all to ourselves!

It was getting late and we still needed to get down and navigate back around the lake with our big packs so we headed out. We didn't want to leave the ridge the same way we came in so we went farther down to a large notch that we were hoping would have good access. In the red is the route we took up and in the blue is the route we took down.

The way we went down was much better and we would have taken it both ways if we would have known. It was steep at the beginning, so we started walking down, face in with our axes in use. About a hundred feet down the slope eases and we had a very long, enjoyable glissade.

Once we finally came to a stop Rainier_Wolfcastle noticed that his crampons, which were tied onto his summit pack, had come off. He went back up a little ways looking for them, but the glissade was so long they could be anywhere. We were tired, it had been a long day and he decided to accept their loss as a mountain sacrifice. If anyone finds them, please contact him for their return.

We got back down to the lake, broke out the stove and had a lovely mountain house dinner. We didn't want to, but we loaded on the packs and trudged back around the lake to set up camp. We slept well that night and headed out after sleeping in the next morning.

Back to the car with no issue.

What a fabulous Father's Day!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

JosephG	Nice work! 6/24/2010 1:36am Was up there Saturday from Geneva Lakes. Lots of snow, especially from the east, and a lot of wet slide activity. Can never see enough of those Snowmass from Snowmass Lake pics. Well done.
Rainier_Wolfcastle	Thanks for the great time and doing the TR! 6/24/2010 5:48am Kathy and I had a blast hiking with you on Snowmass and Conundrum! The great three days of weather was incredible, I mean just look at that blue sky...makes for some fantastic photos! Thanks again!

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