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I hadn't done a 14er since last August and was dying to get out. It was late in the afternoon and I could see multiple avalanche paths on the peaks visible southwest from Twin Lakes. cornices on a mt. viewable from Twin Lakes I decided to hike up La Plata Gulch and get an early start the next am (maybe even summit that night once it was cold enough out). happy beginningsmt. to the w. of the gulchS. end of the gulchUnfortunately, I arrived to the basin already a good way up to the ridge (southern side of the gulch).Where I arrived@the basin It was 6 pm and I thought I might be able to summit that night, hoping the temp would drop and harden the snow a little as evening came on. I began my approach diagonally. goal -camped on the S. end fo the ridge right before the little notch before starting the last 500-1000 ft? ascentI tried to avoid snowy patches which were obviously too risky and stick to areas where I could dig my ice-axe in. Any dirt was wet and loose with snowmelt. Some areas of snow had a bit of a hard crust on top and pebbly like stuff that was too uncompressible to hold my axe. I had to choose a different line and make my goal the ridge (where the solid and exposed hard rock would be safer). I knew this would take longer, and it did. re-routed towards this ridge a little later, south of this photo
I realized it was too risky to summit that night and decided that I would just sleep in my bivy once I gained the ridge. Each step was careful and slow and each new position tenuous. Once I slipped 2 feet before arresting. Had never done that before. My heart raced and I prayed constantly the rest of the way up. It would not be the best to sleep on the ridge, but the safest course of travel now was up and I had no choice.
I gained the ridge and was in my bivy by 9pm. I could see lightning in the sky to the southeast and put up my ice-axe and poles as receptors. No I was really frightened. "What an idiot I am," I thought to myself. "What was I thinking? What was my back-up plan from the beginning." I had prided myself on doing 21 14ers and subsequently 12 in my first two summers here. I had injured my knees last summer or I might have finished up then. I thought I was always prepared, always cautious (though adventuresome), always had a bigger pack than others I saw, it seemed (i.e. more gear, food, water, etc. for emergencies). I counted the minutes and hours till day-break. Sometime early in the morning it did snow. The wind was as forecasted. The snow that fell was no more that could have been predicted. I was as cold as I thought I might be having left my sleeping bag behind. So scared was I by my near fatal slip and my own stupidity. Layered in my winter gear, I lay like a snowman knocked on his side, too fat to really lay flat. My prayers for safety continued throughout the night.
It was with great joy that I greeted the morning@6 and prepared to descend- yes, descend. I had anticipated that the snow would only be safe@this time. I had not anticipated the horrible pea-gravel-like snow. The risk was too great. After warming my feet somewhat with a hot-water bottle (the searing pain I felt in them later on during my descent let me know I hadn't spent long enough re-warming). I warmed some Gatorade and drank. That was all I could tolerate. I had spent the night nauseated and with a headache. I had developed altitude sickness about the time I reached the gulch the night before. On later reflection, I realized that this condition might have been what contributed to my poor decisions.
Unfortunately, I can get hypoglycemic quickly. My goal was to cross the ridge and descend as quickly as possible to a point where I could imbibe calories safely (without vomiting, that is). I descended the northern tip of the ridge at quite a sharp angle, using my ice axe with every step. I made it down towards the trees just in the nick of time as the snow started to soften (12,500 ft?) and just before my glucose levels bottomed out completely. I had cried like a baby from frostbite, my sugar was low enough that my movements were slow and I was weak, but I had managed to maintain my hold on my axe and sink it in deep, I had held my pack and myself up, and I had made it down. I lay there briefly in the snow and brightening sunshine, relieved to be safe at last (relatively so, that was), eating small bites of licorice and fruit chews.
I might not have felt so relieved if I were to realize that my poles would fail me while post-holing through the miserable treacherous down-sloping slog that lay ahead of me, but none of us really ever want to know what lies ahead anyway. I did make it back to my truck without a broken leg. It was the worst 14er attempt I had ever made. I vowed for at least a few days that I would sell my ice-axe and crampons and never attempt a winter or spring hike again.... But that was a few days ago and already, well, you guessed it, I'm thinking of getting a little "workout" on my favorite route up Long's asap. Hope no one is scared off from hiking with me - I'm usually a little more intelligent that this.
Cheers,
Mountain Woman (Elle)
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
I just moved to Denver, I am looking for other hiking buddies and it would be especially nice to go with another girl. I had actually been toying with the idea of trying to snow shoe up La Plata (because the road is paved basically all the way to the trail head) but I think I may wait a bit, are you planning any other near term trips?
Elle - thanks for posting this. I just started doing spring climbs last year and it really helps to see trip reports like this so I can think through what can go wrong and how will I be prepared. Take care - have a safe climbing year! Bob
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