| Report Type | Full |
| Peak(s) |
Maroon Peak - 14,163 feet North Maroon Peak - 14,022 feet |
| Date Posted | 08/12/2008 |
| Date Climbed | 08/05/2008 |
| Author | Daniel Trugman |
| Bells Traverse |
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Party: Anna (sister), and me Having just climbed Pyramid two days before with the Bells in view most of the way, both Anna and I were excited to tackle our biggest 14er challenge of the summer: the Bells Traverse. We left the parking lot at 2:55 am and hiked up the familiar trail past Crater Lake to the turnoff towards Maroon Peak, roughly 3.5 miles away. This section was certainly the most relaxing of any portion of the climb, and took us roughly an hour and twenty-five minutes to complete. We paused for a brief water break before heading up the steep, unpleasant slope to the saddle at 13,300. I remembered how miserable this section of the climb was from my previous ascent of Maroon, and it certainly did not disappoint. It was probably best that it was dark so I couldn't see the intimidating 2700 foot slope that I had to climb. I focused on putting one foot in front of the other and getting as much of this ascent out of the way before light. There are a few short class 3 sections on this slope, none of which are particularly difficult, but are nevertheless interesting in the pitch black. We could see lights higher up the slope and because we were catching them so quickly, I felt elated at what I thought was my lightning-quick pace (It turns out they had stopped moving). As it became light enough to see we caught Ben and John (benners and ossie322), who had lost the trail. They were actually only a few feet off the trail, so they descended to us, regained the trail, and continued up the steep and loose slope. My sister and I decided to eat breakfast at that point, and left about 15 minutes later. At this point, I think we were about 1000 vertical feet from the saddle. Soon after restarting up the slope, we too lost the trail, and decided to just follow the path of least resistance up the remainder of the climb. The rock was getting quite loose so we decided to strap on our helmets at this point. It turned out to be a very wise decision, as a few minutes later my sister and I were bombarded by a series of large rocks accidentally knocked loose by Ben and John. After confirming we were ok and apologizing, they restarted their ascent, as did we. I definitely can't blame them for knocking those rocks down, that section is extremely loose and I have certainly knocked my fair share of rocks down that slope. Finally, at around 6:30, Anna and I reached the saddle, much to our relief. After stopping briefly for water, started hiking briskly along the obvious climber's trail. The route from this point to the summit, though loose and complicated, was quite fun. It consists generally of combination of narrow traverses, loose gullies, and fun scrambling on surprisingly solid and spectacular blood-red rock. There is one annoying dirt gulley that you have to ascend near the top, but other then that, the climbing is incredible. At one point I got off route and decided to climb a short (about 5.6) cliff band to regain the route. This airy variation could have been easily avoided but I thought it would be good practice for the terrain on the traverse. I topped out at about 7:50 and chatted with Ben and John while waiting a few minutes for my sister to summit. After learning that they were doing the traverse as well, we decided to join parties to do the traverse, and left the summit at 8:10.  On the summit The downclimb to the saddle was not too difficult (there was one possible class 4 section), but it was quite loose and time consuming. After reaching the saddle and peering down the Bell Cord, the climbing began in earnest.  View from the saddle There are three distinct cruxes on the traverse, the first one being a tricky chimney just after the saddle (low class 5).  me on the first crux After climbing up over this, we scrambled along the ridge crest and hit the obvious second crux head on, the obvious red and white headwall blocking easy passage. the second crux This may actually be the technically easiest crux, but it is the most sustained and most exposed.  a closer look at the 2nd crux  John on the 2nd crux  Anna on the 2nd crux  dramatic exposure! Shortly after tackling this challenge, we were greeted with the third, final and most difficult crux, ascending a short tower (felt like about 5.4). Ben went up this first, followed shortly by me.  Ben on the 3rd crux  me on the 3rd crux We set up and anchor system for John, and my sister helped him tie in and then free climbed the pitch like Ben and I. While John probably didn't need this belay, we decided it was best not to take chances (Especially when he was getting married in a week. Congratulations, John!)  John on belay  Just a cool pic The difficulty eases after this point, and is reminiscent of the upper part of Maroon Peak.  Just hangin‘ around We topped out on North Maroon after 10:10. We weren't going for any speed records or anything, and this time can certainly be bested by a strong party.  Looking back at the traverse Half-considering adding Pyramid to our itinerary, we lounged in great weather on the summit til about 10:40. Finally deciding it would be prudent to descend, we all headed down together, Ben scouting the North Face intently for a possible winter ascent and ski descent.  Heading back down Heading down North Maroon's NE ridge rout was not difficult, but like so much terrain on the Bells, it is steep, loose, and time-consuming. After descending the requisite series of gullies and crossing the boulderfield, Anna and I decided to eat lunch while Ben and John decided to plow on ahead.  North Maroon‘s north face The weather was looking increasingly bad, and indeed it started raining on the long trail back to the parking lot. We arrived shortly before 3, making our round trip time about 12 hours. The last few miles back to camp seemed to drag on forever. I began to mentally prepare myself for my fourteener finisher, Castle.  Shot of the Bells from the parking lot Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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