Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
After Huron yesterday, I was pretty beat physically. I got up at 7am and the weather was great. I had toyed with the idea of doing Evans today, but I wasn't sure how much stamina was left in my legs. I ate a big breakfast and decided I would head up to Evans to have a look. The road was only open to Summit Lake. I felt like I should only be charged $7 instead of $10.
I got to the parking lot at 10am, alpine start. It was surprisingly cool. 29 degrees I believe, with a breeze. It was late and I was tired, so I decided I would just skin up to the base of the North Face and do some recon.
I was at the basin below the North Face in 15 minutes, not sure what happened there, must have been the biscuits and gravy.
I was feeling stronger than I estimated, so I decided to move a little higher to check the snow and poach a few turns. As I neared the face, I noticed 3 climbers higher up.
The clouds were intermittent, keeping the snow in good condition even though it was late. I made use of the ready-made staircase.
I made good time and the next thing I knew I was into the 40 degree section of the route. Down climbing would be a pain and putting on skis would be tricky, so I decided the best option was up.
Seconding a snow slope is so much easier than kicking steps. Before I knew it I was into the narrow 50 degree section. People argue about steepness all the time. Most people over estimate it. I pulled out my BCA inclinometer and measured for reference. It only goes to 50 degrees and the bead was not visible.
The next thing I knew I was on the summit. It took about 2 hours all in.
There was still snow from the summit boulder. I hadn't really planned to do the whole climb and still didn't have a descent picked out. The snow in the couloir I ascended was in good shape. Deep and well bonded. Perhaps I was still a little sketched by the slide the previous day. I elected to ski traverse over to the Summit Lake Bowl.
I was able to weave my way off the summit and across the ridge with some side-stepping, kick-turning, and billy-goating. Pretty much my entire arsenal.
I made it to the top of the bowl and realized it wasn't continuous. There was good snow at the top, then a section of exposed rock. I down climbed that section. Maybe 100 feet.
Once the skis were back on I side-stepped down a thin snow layer that wasn't sticking to the rock very well.
The bowl opened up and I encountered another problem. The snow was sticking to the bottom of my skis like I've never experienced. I tried kicking it off, banging it with a ski pole, and verbal abuse. None of it worked. I realized later that the slush on my ski out of Huron the previous day had removed all of the wax.
I finally resigned to performing the trick of removing my skis on a high 30s slope. It wasn't really the kind of snow that one can stomp a nice ledge into. I completed the maneuver and started the jump turn circus. The descent was enjoyable after I built up some downward momentum.
I was off in no time. A look back up at my tracks from the basin.
I layered down and skied to the parking lot. Took one last pick of the face, my ascent route on the far left and ski tracks on the right.
Though not planned, it was a good day. It was my first time to Summit Lake. I will be back here often I think. It's close and has a wealth of good ski lines. Going to have to figure out the $10 entrance fee though. That's crazy. Even crazier were the number of cars in the parking lot when I returned.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Good advice. Though after 50 degrees I think a rope is more in order.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
