Maroon Peak Trip Report 07/20/2007

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Maroon Peak - 14,163 feet
Date Posted	07/20/2007
Modified	08/22/2008
Date Climbed	07/16/2007
Author	jeffro

Maroon Peak - Elk Range Finale
OK...one down and one to go. This last Monday, July 16th, Debby and I climbed Maroon Peak. We now have only to climb Mt. Eolus in order to complete a quest that we started over 10 years ago. No, we don't log the miles and yearly elevation gains of many, but all in all it has been an experience that neither one of us would trade for anything in the world. We've also been up several technical and moderate non-standard routes on many, enjoying the reaffirmation that we are privileged as Colorado mountaineers. The elks are a wonderful range. They take a lot of criticism for being loose and rotten and the standard routes on the 14ers certainly offer more technical challenges on a per peak average than any other range. I read somewhere (perhaps it was in the Borneman/Lampert guidebook) something about a mountain that had everything wrong with it that a mountain could have. The elks have everything wrong with them that a Colorado range could have. The remoteness and lengthy access issues of Snowmass and Capitol, horrendous rotten rock on Pyramid and the Bells, steep slopes and no "easy" routes up....well....any of them, except maybe Castle. To me, these are attributes that make mountains mountains. Maroon peak epitomizes an Elk Range 14er. Its class 3 sections are, in my opinion, not as challenging as those on Crestone Needle. It is not as long in mileage as Longs, Pikes, Capitol or the Blanca group. We did not find the standard route to harbor as much loose rock as the standard routes on Pyramid, El Diente or even Wilson Peak. It does require significant elevation gain, but nowhere near as much as Pikes Peak or any of the Chicago Basin Peaks. What separates Maroon Peak from so many others is the sum total of all that is required. Lots of class 3 sections, a 12 mile day, a long time spent on a ridge above 13,000 feet, loose Maroon rock and 4800 feet of elevation gain all add up to make this a serious climb. At this stage in our "14er bagging" quest, we wouldn't have it any other way. We picked the day with the best weather forecast of the week and started at the Maroon Lake trailhead at 5:30 am. While working our way steadily up to Crater Lake, I couldn't help but feel a bit nostalgic about our Elk Range finale, given our two aborted climbs of the Bells (including our epic up and down the Bell Cord) and our wonderful climbs of Capitol and North Maroon. We forgot our camera, so the pictures posted here were taken from a disposable camera that we bought in Aspen...to quote Debby "what a couple of dorks!" The Bell Cord Couloir stirred a lot of memories and emotions as we passed it... After the "bent tree" we easily found the large cairn marking the route up the slope that in Gerry Roach's words "will test the success of your training program". Ours passed with flying colors on the way up, but the descent definitely wore heavily on 46 year old feet and knees. As we approached the ridge a half dozen or so mountain goats kept us under a watchful eye... Once on the ridge, Bill's route description and photos were invaluable...thanks, Bill! With that said, the route is very well cairned and nowhere near as difficult to follow as made out to be in the guidebooks that were written 10 to 20 years ago. Here is some of the steep terrain on the ridge... and some of the famed Maroon ledge walking... As we had on our weekday climbs of Capitol, Pyramid and North Maroon we enjoyed the summit all by ourselves. The obligatory summit shots, Debby... and Jeff... Many speak of which of Colorado's 14er summits offer the best views. The San Juans are certainly spectacular, but in my opinion, the views from the tops of the Maroon Bells are unequaled. You are perched smack in the middle of the ruggedness of the Elks and the views extend well into the Sawatch. The valleys seem more green, the rock is red with the grey contrast of Snowmass and Capitol and the cinnamon colors rival those in southwest Colorado. North Maroon... and the aforementioned green valleys lined with cinnamon colors... You are treated to many views of big, bad Pyramid Peak on this hike, here's one on the descent... At the end of our climb, 11 hours had passed since we started. I used to think we were reasonably fast but compared to some of the youngsters posting trip reports on this site, I'd have to say we're average at best. While "rehydrating" at the trailhead, Mother Maroon let out a lightning strke with a clap of thunder that shook the vehicle and reverberated off of all the high peaks in the valley. It sounded as though it must have triggered huge rock slides with large chunks of the Maroon group falling to the valley floor. We could only construe this as "Goodbye" or "Until next time" and thanked her for allowing us safe passage. The Bells are truly unique mountains in a very special place. Jeff

Maroon Peak - Elk Range Finale

OK...one down and one to go. This last Monday, July 16th, Debby and I climbed Maroon Peak. We now have only to climb Mt. Eolus in order to complete a quest that we started over 10 years ago. No, we don't log the miles and yearly elevation gains of many, but all in all it has been an experience that neither one of us would trade for anything in the world. We've also been up several technical and moderate non-standard routes on many, enjoying the reaffirmation that we are privileged as Colorado mountaineers.

The elks are a wonderful range. They take a lot of criticism for being loose and rotten and the standard routes on the 14ers certainly offer more technical challenges on a per peak average than any other range. I read somewhere (perhaps it was in the Borneman/Lampert guidebook) something about a mountain that had everything wrong with it that a mountain could have. The elks have everything wrong with them that a Colorado range could have. The remoteness and lengthy access issues of Snowmass and Capitol, horrendous rotten rock on Pyramid and the Bells, steep slopes and no "easy" routes up....well....any of them, except maybe Castle. To me, these are attributes that make mountains mountains. Maroon peak epitomizes an Elk Range 14er.

Its class 3 sections are, in my opinion, not as challenging as those on Crestone Needle. It is not as long in mileage as Longs, Pikes, Capitol or the Blanca group. We did not find the standard route to harbor as much loose rock as the standard routes on Pyramid, El Diente or even Wilson Peak. It does require significant elevation gain, but nowhere near as much as Pikes Peak or any of the Chicago Basin Peaks. What separates Maroon Peak from so many others is the sum total of all that is required. Lots of class 3 sections, a 12 mile day, a long time spent on a ridge above 13,000 feet, loose Maroon rock and 4800 feet of elevation gain all add up to make this a serious climb. At this stage in our "14er bagging" quest, we wouldn't have it any other way.

We picked the day with the best weather forecast of the week and started at the Maroon Lake trailhead at 5:30 am. While working our way steadily up to Crater Lake, I couldn't help but feel a bit nostalgic about our Elk Range finale, given our two aborted climbs of the Bells (including our epic up and down the Bell Cord) and our wonderful climbs of Capitol and North Maroon.

We forgot our camera, so the pictures posted here were taken from a disposable camera that we bought in Aspen...to quote Debby "what a couple of dorks!"

The Bell Cord Couloir stirred a lot of memories and emotions as we passed it...

After the "bent tree" we easily found the large cairn marking the route up the slope that in Gerry Roach's words "will test the success of your training program". Ours passed with flying colors on the way up, but the descent definitely wore heavily on 46 year old feet and knees.

As we approached the ridge a half dozen or so mountain goats kept us under a watchful eye...

Once on the ridge, Bill's route description and photos were invaluable...thanks, Bill! With that said, the route is very well cairned and nowhere near as difficult to follow as made out to be in the guidebooks that were written 10 to 20 years ago.

Here is some of the steep terrain on the ridge...

and some of the famed Maroon ledge walking...

As we had on our weekday climbs of Capitol, Pyramid and North Maroon we enjoyed the summit all by ourselves. The obligatory summit shots, Debby...

and Jeff...

Many speak of which of Colorado's 14er summits offer the best views. The San Juans are certainly spectacular, but in my opinion, the views from the tops of the Maroon Bells are unequaled. You are perched smack in the middle of the ruggedness of the Elks and the views extend well into the Sawatch. The valleys seem more green, the rock is red with the grey contrast of Snowmass and Capitol and the cinnamon colors rival those in southwest Colorado.

North Maroon...

and the aforementioned green valleys lined with cinnamon colors...

You are treated to many views of big, bad Pyramid Peak on this hike, here's one on the descent...

At the end of our climb, 11 hours had passed since we started. I used to think we were reasonably fast but compared to some of the youngsters posting trip reports on this site, I'd have to say we're average at best.

While "rehydrating" at the trailhead, Mother Maroon let out a lightning strke with a clap of thunder that shook the vehicle and reverberated off of all the high peaks in the valley. It sounded as though it must have triggered huge rock slides with large chunks of the Maroon group falling to the valley floor. We could only construe this as "Goodbye" or "Until next time" and thanked her for allowing us safe passage.

The Bells are truly unique mountains in a very special place.

Jeff

Comments or Questions

jeffro	Thanks for the nice comments 11/30/2010 5:28pm Alpine... If you liked Pyramid, you'll love North Maroon. del_sur... nice avatar! Yeah, maybe August 7-10. I'll definitely keep you posted. Thanks for the nice remarks, guys... Jeff
Aubrey	Very happy for you guys! 11/30/2010 5:28pm Congrats! I love reading your stuff, and your philosophies and thoughts are right on. I hope we'll be in Chicago Basin (or even better, Eolus) when you guys finish!
jeffro	Thanks Aubrey! 11/30/2010 5:28pm I don't know what else to say...just thanks!! Jeff
Matt	Disposable camera, indelible memories 1/19/2011 3:38am Jeff, will you be finishing up, maybe August 7-10? Keep me posted as to your big time plans.
Alpine	Nice job! 2/5/2011 12:22am Nice job Jeffro! After having done Pyramid last week, I can't wait to get back and hit the Bells.

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