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Report Type 
Mini
Peak(s)  Mt. Harvard  -  14,424 feet
Mt. Columbia  -  14,075 feet
Date Posted  08/24/2024
Date Climbed   08/03/2024
Author  daway8
 Harvard Columbia Ridge Direct Traverse   

Quick mini TR to highlight how much more epic this traverse is when done ridge direct instead of the standard route that drops way, way off the ridge.

I did this as a "blind climb" - meaning I intentionally did only minimal research to make sure the ridge "goes" and then flung myself out there to check it out without too many spoilers.

Biggest thing to note: I should have gone Columbia to Harvard.

By starting with Harvard, the class 5 crux was an ugly downclimb that I managed to skip by doing a far uglier reverse and descend off the west side then up a very steep slab with climbing shoes. I think if I approached from Columbia to climb up the crux it probably wouldn't have been too bad.

Funnest feature: The Bunny Ears!! listed as "Rabbit" in some of the photos of the "standard" (read: boring) version of the traverse.

These things are epically huge and can be seen easily from the valley floor below on either side - and the sweetest thing - you can actually get up on them! Well, at least in between on, maybe on if you're bold enough.

From Harvard they were almost the final major feature. I went around on the back right to find a ramp and some scrambling up into the middle of the bunny ears. The West Bunny Ear I very nearly worked up the nerve to climb to the top - maybe next time. The East Ear looked too sketch for me.

There are a ton of little towers and bumps and fun features that run anywhere from class 3 (plenty) to class 4 (scattered around) and occasional class 5, especially the crux , which some have rated 5.7

Crux location: Some people mistakenly think the crux is the Rabbit (or Bunny Ears) but these are an optional feature. There's a slanted knife edge between the Rabbit and the crux. Rumor tells of a class 3 bypass on east - I didn't get a chance to verify. The "bypass" on the west is more sketch than the crux.

22755_08
Ridge as seen from valley when hiking to Harvard.


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Fun


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More fun


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Crux and the slab I dropped below and came up instead


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Sketchy crux bypass on west


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Bunny Ears on back of this massive block (note my orange helmet front right for scale).


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West Bunny Ear


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East Bunny Ear





Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8


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