Log In 
Report Type 
Full
Peak(s)  Mt. Harvard  -  14,424 feet
Mt. Columbia  -  14,075 feet
Date Posted  10/02/2022
Date Climbed   09/27/2022
Author  benopp
 A Last-Minute Decision: Harvard-to-Columbia Non-Technical Ridge Traverse   

Sign me up for exciting Class 3 and easy Class 4, especially for sustained lengths. That usually means avoiding the Sawatches. But the Harvard-Columbia Traverse along the ridge, with a handful of gully circumvents, offers a tasty and surprisingly enjoyable (though in retrospect) adventure. In retrospect, I say, because I wish I studied the route beyond making a Strava track based on the heatmap to better ascertain what is fun solid Class 3/4 versus loose sandy gully. This is in part a cautionary tale, because first, I traversed too many loose sandy gullies, which present conceivable dangers of large boulders becoming dislodged (hence I often breathlessly zig-zagged), and second spotty Strava tracks can lead to the blind leading the blind. Having said that, I, being solo, fully expected to either backtrack or descend to the main traverse; however I never felt the need to.

21946_10
Here is my finished track (right) that follows very closely the spotty Strava track along the ridge. My downloaded track kept me on course, but I used reasonable judgement to not follow it exactly. I went clockwise.

I took a 30-hour midweek break day to drive out from the Front Range to enjoy peak fall colors (mostly along the drive) under close-to-ideal conditions before the freeze-thaw cycle ushers in shoulder season.

21946_01
Up to N. Cottonwood Creek Trailhead.

Achieved setting up camp before sunset.

21946_11
Sunset on Mt. Yale.

Harvard casts a long shadow.

21946_03
Summited at about 7:30 am.

I mostly stayed on the east side due to my ignorance, thus missing a knife edge (apparently from other reports).

21946_04
The highly eroded ridge looking toward Columbia.

The downclimb of the first portion of the ridge was continuously knee-buckling. Confidence dropped, but my endurance remained, so I continued. At one point, I felt not necessarily cliffed-out, but an exposed hard Class 4 descent lay before me, hence I back-tracked and found myself slogging across the loose gullies in no mood to take photos.

Soon spirits brightened as "The Rabbits" appeared along with more solid rock.

21946_05
Better rock in sight.

Now things changed for the better, and the apprehension faded away.

21946_06
Rabbits above.
21946_07
Looking back.

On top of Columbia after a torrid climb up the final 500 feet.

21946_08
The Horn Fork Basin is quite barren.

I had visions of doing a marathon-length Antero, Tabeguash, Shavano circuit. Good thing I chose otherwise, because I'm both not in shape, and I would have probably encountered rain. Heard some thunder in the direction of Princeton.

21946_09
Princeton drenched.

I wrote this report to say that if you enjoy adventurous scrambling but not technical climbing, the Harvard-Columbia ridge traverse is quite nice in ideal conditions. If I had it to do over again, I would do it with a buddy and study before hand. Most importantly, be aware of potential loose boulders!

Times- the traverse took 3 hours. I started at 5:05 am, and got to Columbia at 10:30, finishing the loop is 7:30.


My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10


Comments or Questions
highlander60
User
Incredible pics
5/2/2023 7:48pm
Wow - the pictures are all stunning, but that one of Harvard's shadow... just wow. Thanks for sharing, thinking to try this later this summer.


benopp
User
Thanks!
5/3/2023 10:09am
But this motivates me to carry an SLR with me, instead of my Pixel 6.


   Not registered?


Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.