Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
When I started this winter, my goals were modest, most of my remaining peaks on the winter list were in the category I describe as ranging from "hard" to "death". I had no ambition to try and crank out the kind of numbers as in the past 2 winters. The 2 week Christmas break I had off work I couldn't get a single peak as it was basically snowing non stop in the mountains and avalanche danger was high nearly everywhere. After New Years I had to return to work unfortunately, just as things started clearing up. I had to spend the first few weeks of January working in Arkansas, so wasn't crazy about losing some altitude acclimation, but that's how it goes sometimes. Flew home for a 3 day weekend on Thursday 1/13, and avy conditions were looking good, so figured I'd hit up Snowmass. I did Snowmass via its south ridge in September, glad I did, as there's one section on that route that I had no interest in getting through in winter, so I decided I'd give the north ridge a try.
Left Denver around 4pm, thinking I'd get to Glenwood Springs and hit up Village Inn on the way to Marble, with a planned start around 9:30-10pm Friday night. A few inches of snow was forecast for Denver, but I didn't think anything of it. I should have. Took forever to get out of town, and my window slowly closed on getting a delicious skillet and pancakes from Village Inn. Finally made it to Marble around 11:30, and was hiking just before midnight.
See you in a day or so old friend...
I put on snowshoes as soon as I left the car, I was expecting to break trail from the start, I didn't think anything drove the road in winter, but I had a snowmobile track to follow, a nice surprise.
Between Marble and Crystal.Reached the Crystal Mill around 2amCrystal
After getting through Crystal my snowmobile track ran out so I snowshoed up.
The snow wasn't bad, it was about as good as breaking trail gets for this time of year. Took several shots between Crystal and Lead King.
Finally nearing Lead King trailhead.
As I made my way towards Geneva Lake, the snow stayed nicely firm even leading up to Geneva Lake. After passing Geneva Lake I hung left towards Snowmass. I remember from my Hagerman trip that there were nasty willows just past the lake, thankfully they were all buried in snow.
Sun finally started to rise as I get above treeline. Geneva Lake in center.
After ascending a few steep slopes above treeline, I could see the N. ridge. The north ridge proper had the most dry rocks, so that's where I went. Left my snowshoes at the base and put on crampons.
Looking at Siberia Peak from just below the N Ridge.Start of the N ridge, looking back at Geneva Lake.
N. Ridge wasn't terribly difficult to get up, I was able to rock hop most of it, but where I couldn't, the snow was really inconsistent. Every step was a gamble on how deep I'd go. Far worse coming down than going up.
Finally nearing the top.Almost there, the views of Capitol were, in Ferris Bueller terms, "Choice".
Reached the summit in a hair under 12 hours from start. I felt like I was making good time the entire way until I started up the N ridge. Cold and windy at the summit.
Summit temp. Wind was probably 20 mph.
Despite the less than favorable weather, I spent probably 20-25 minutes up top. I was pretty excited to be there.
Looking at Snowmass Lake.Geneva Lake in center.Zoomed in on Capitol.A little tougher to balance with crampons.
Return trip was uneventful, I was looking forward to getting some shots of what I missed in the darkness.
My favorite shot of the day. When I look back at a picture like this, it seems impossible that I was standing on top just a few hours ago. What a life.
Much of my track was windblown above treeline on return, but the snow was pretty firm.Trip stats.
Made it back to the car around 7pm, not quite as tired as I think I should have been, but it was a great day. Thanks for reading.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Solid work, Will!
Any chance you'd be willing to share a GPX on this report? I'm guessing this would be super helpful to some future, self-punishing climbers.
Will could you send your GPX file directly to Bill?
Bill, with his advanced computer skills, could then put the GPX track on the forum route description.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.
