9/16/2018 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 9/17/2018, By: hellmanm Info: For Pacific/Atlantic: Still summer conditions everywhere, and fall colors are peaking. One thing to note: The GPX file for the descent (pulled from the Atlantic peak route) is way off. Wrong gully, wrong track once in the basin...etc. The GPX file for Pacific is better about the gully, but the basin route is still misleading. I didn't record our route, but PM me if you have questions about this route. |
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9/8/2018 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 9/8/2018, By: HikerGuy Info: West Ridge is completely dry as of Saturday 9/8. Saddle between Pacific and Atlantic also dry. |
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7/1/2018 Route: Southeast Slopes Posted On: 7/2/2018, By: BKS Info: Crux headwall is not melted out yet. 300' of 45 degree snow is unavoidable. Too steep and long to glissade without axe. there is a bypass that only required 50' of snow, but rock around snow is terribly loose. Kicked down lots of rocks. |
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5/17/2018 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 5/17/2018, By: B_2 Info: There is a ton of snow on the W ridge and thus we did not attempt it today despite a hard freeze. We traversed to Pacific along ridge from Atlantic and then to Pacific-Crystal saddle to descend. East bowl of Atl/Pac still has plenty of snow and Pacific Tarn is still frozen. Flotation is required in the basins! |
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3/31/2018 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 3/31/2018, By: graberz Info: We completed pacific peak via west ridge and then over to Atlantic peak. From Atlantic summit we followed the ridge and cut down to pacific creek. The west ridge route yielded plenty of class 3 and sometimes 4 scrambling as we got off route due to snow features.. Lots of opportunity for exposure. We did not use crampons because the snow was mostly too soft but we did carry them. Ice axe was needed as we climbed snow fields at times. Snow shoes needed to get to the west ridge. Snow was Supportive in morning and plenty of post holing in afternoon. We stored snow shoes down by the creek and came down the ridge early off Atlantic to pick them up. Atlantic peak ridge has one specific section that we argued how safe it was, but did end up crossing it. It could be avoidable by dropping down and traversing the pacific side of the ridge. Round trip was 7.5 hours. No one else on pacific/one snowboarder maybe on Atlantic. |
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12/2/2017 Route: Area Posted On: 12/3/2017, By: WillRobnett Info: Distant photo from across Hoosier Pass. Quandary is the foreground ridge with the east ridge of Pacific sunlit. Crystal is the peak centered with the higher ridge on the right. Storm expected to add a new layer of snow tomorrow. |
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10/15/2017 Route: From Atlantic Posted On: 10/15/2017, By: koeffling Info: The trail down from Atlantic was snowy but firm or avoidable with some rock hopping. The ridge up to Pacific from the saddle was nearly dry or snow was easily avoidable. |
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9/16/2017 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 9/17/2017, By: cardgenius Info: Had a good dusting of snow in the morning so we waited till noon to climb. Most of the snow melted off of the ridge but there were pockets of snow that was sticking around in the shade. No spikes needed yet. Rock is very loose so take your time and be careful! |
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8/13/2017 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 8/14/2017, By: E_A_Marcus_949 Info: One snowfield to cross on the way up to the ridge from the small parking area. Could probably be avoided though if you went around or depending the route you take from the parking area. See picture for the route we took to get to the ridge. Took about 2.5 hours to cross the ridge itself. We were on top of the ridge a lot and also went left of the ridge if things got dicey. Myself and the two others I was with thought it was solid class 3, not 'easy' class 3. Went down Atlantic NE slopes. Scree spree, especially with the snow field cutting through most of the 'standard route' down. Very steep and loose, take your time, lots of rock fall potential. |
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6/25/2017 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 6/26/2017, By: toxqan Info: A little snow remains on the slopes of the cirque leading to the ridge. I detoured a bit to find a less steep section but that was easily handled with microspikes and would probably be fine without. There was no snow on the ridge itself or the final climb to the top. The scrambling was fantastic and unrelenting. Rock towers kept appearing as though they were hidden by an optical illusion. The descent from the Atlantic - Pacific saddle to McCullough gulch was a different story. Suncupped snow pretty much the entire way until the lake at 11,900ft, much of it unavoidable. There was an area from 13,200ft were the only reasonable descent path required a steep glissade. Thankfully I made it down but regret not bringing an ice axe. |
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6/18/2017 Route: East Slopes Posted On: 6/18/2017, By: Jorts Info: Climbed consolation couloir (lookers rightmost Hawaii coolie) above Mohawk Lakes. The water is high and the riparian areas are saturated. There is still a lot of snow in the HI coolies. Climbed the snow at 0900, supportive and moderately sticky. The upper east ridge to Pac was mostly clear of snow. |
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6/16/2017 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 6/16/2017, By: Count40 Info: Only pictures from Mayflower Hill. You can see for yourself, but just briefly: Lots of snow from the mine 4WD TH (and not accessible by car yet, btw), then through basin past the willows and up the drainage to the Pacific/Atlantic basin. Pacific West Ridge quite dry, with many snow patches, but without cornices. And you know the story about dancing between early harder snow, later softer snow. and snowshoes and postholing. |
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6/4/2017 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 6/8/2017, By: JtheChemE Info: From ~12,700 to ~13,400 ridge is in mostly summer condition, snow on a few short sections going up. Exit from McCullough was snow until the road, snowshoes used on exit, partner wallowed a bit w/o. Expect snow will be even less supportive down low this week with the lack of overnight freeze. |
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10/28/2016 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 10/28/2016, By: SolarAlex Info: West Ridge is basically dry. A few small spots of snow on the ridge but wasn't much of an issue. The traverse to atlantic was a little snowier, and the descent down the west ridge on atlantic had some snowy spots. We did the route in trail runners and didn't have a problem. As a general conditions report for the 10mile range, its pretty much entirely dry on South/West/East aspects, with some thin snow cover on north aspects and shaded areas. |
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7/10/2016 Route: East Slopes Posted On: 7/12/2016, By: Double Oh Seven Info: didnt climb pacific just went fishing at mohawk lakes. But got this picture of east slopes. Still looks to be holding a snow. A few ski tracks as well. |
