Pacific Peak

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/13/2026, By: One Step At A Time
Info: We went up Pacific and down Atlantic, and the previously mentioned snow crossing on Atlantic's west ridge is still there and no bypass (see picture). We were able to comfortably make it across using spikes and poles. It would've been sketchy without both. Right at 10:30am it was perfect to cross- not too icy, not too slushy. Would not have wanted to cross if it was any slushier. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/5/2026, By: gabberellamtn
Info: Pacific—> Atlantic 6/4 from Mayflower Gulch. Snow is mostly gone down low and there’s only one real patch of unavoidable snow on Pacific’s ridgeline. Atlantic is still holding quite a bit of snow including a very sketchy unavoidable patch corniced over the ridgeline described in an update below. I did not have an axe and forgot my poles and really wished for those. A slide would be devastating in that area and I was super uncomfortable crossing it. I was fine, but seriously not worth the risk.

Willows were wet and the water crossing was pretty difficult currently. Would have been better if I had my poles but since I didn’t I ended up taking off my shoes and walking through the water. Quite unpleasant.

Great day! 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/1/2026, By: jen022789
Info: Still a few sketchy snow crossings on both Pacific and Atlantic. The loop is doable, but I would bring traction and poles for the next couple weeks until it all melts out! The scrambling bits are all snow and ice free. 

Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 5/28/2026, By: benglish
Info: Started from 4wd trailhead. Lots of mud and a few patches of snow into the upper basin but mostly dry to the couloir. Trial runners were fine. The bottom (E facing) portion of the couloir had breakable crust and began to soften at ~8am. It got very soft by the time I made the turn into the N facing upper section. The upper section was in great condition until the very end where it got quite thin. There will be a mandatory rock section at the top in under a week. Go get it! 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 5/26/2026, By: Spencer_Stott
Info: Summer conditions in a week or two. Started at 4:15 AM. Got on ridge proper around 5:45. Summited around 7:40. Went up and over Atlantic Peak, descended Atlantic's west ridge. Plenty of snow between tree line and start of ridge proper, but solid enough to walk/climb on without spikes or flotation in the early AM. Snow on Pacific's W ridge was minimal and completely avoidable except for a 100-ft section where both sides of the ridge were snowed over, with steep couloirs on both sides. Didn't bring an axe, but it was easy to bypass to the south. Snow began softening at 8 AM. Last pick coming down shows a section of Atlantic's W ridge that was snowed over, steep, and corniced. Picture shows a group that crossed it, some without axe or spikes. I didn't want to risk a nasty slide down either side, so I diverted to the left, on the south side of the ridge. Horrible mistake. Ended up navigating a labyrinth of steep rubble-filled gullies. Shifted and slid under any weight. DO NOT go here. Would suggest bringing an axe or coming back down Pacific until this section is melted (probably within a couple weeks). 

Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 4/29/2026, By: jacolc
Info: Climbed couloir 9 days ago. At lower part I fallowed the snow slide, because it was harder. At transition to left couloir, snow was hip/shoulder deep. Above much better. But last 100’ or so, was the crux. Old snow disappeared almost completely (after low snow winter). Practically only shallow, unconsolidated, new snow. Technical climb on rotten rock. Maybe not as much as 5.5 like Gary Roach described. But 5.2-5.4 for sure. Unsecured and dangerous. No ice at all. Crampons mandatory for sure, piolet useless last 100’, even for drytooling (loose rock). Difficult to evaluate condition from below at upper part of couloir, especially at so-so snow condition. For sure not skiable this year. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 4/5/2026, By: hatterasdunton
Info: Microspikes for sure. No concerning avy slopes between TH and Pacific summit. Used snowshoes until above treeline 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 10/19/2025, By: ProfetaP
Info: Completely dry on the ridge and no ice. The willows got me tho - assumed the ground was frozen, and it was until I broke through.. Atlantic had a tiny bit of snow on the ridge, but no micro spikes needed. 

Route: South Slopes - From Atlantic Peak
Posted On: 8/20/2025, By: ejfred
Info: Hiked Pacific and Atlantic together from Mayflower Gulch. The route description up Atlantic from Mayflower looks wonky on the map, but works well because there is a trail for a good chunk of the route, (and some trail segments much of the way up). Saw a Catholic Mass on top of Atlantic! The route over to Pacific is really straight forward Class 2, and for anyone that isn't a huge fan of exposure, I recommend this was of getting to Pacific. The tarn is gorgeous! 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/20/2025, By: notidealbutfine
Info: Started at the 2WD Mayflower Gulch TH just off the highway. The road up to the 4WD TH is definitely subaruable, but I opted not drive the road in the dark as it only adds 1.5 miles one way. There is a bit of snow on the mountains, but everything is easily avoidable. Took the west ridge up Pacific: easy class 3 with some loose rock and easy route finding. Traversed to Crystal (barely class 3 just off Pacific), resummited Pacific, then to Atlantic (class 2). Descended Atlantic's west ridge and met back up with the trail. Shit loads of people on the first couple miles of the trail when I got back to the car around 11, but had the mountains totally to myself today. TENMILE LOVE! 10.72 miles / 4,872' gain / 6 hours, 53 minutes 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 7/20/2025, By: Alyxx
Info: We attempted the route, but decided to turn around halfway up since the weather was already building up at 7:00 am. The ridge looks completely dry up to the summit from what we could see, but if you plan to descend into McCullough Gulch, there looks to be a 400-ish foot long snowfield in your way. Slope angle is between 35-45 degrees, so do with that what you will! 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 7/4/2025, By: whenisdinner
Info: All clear of snow across the route, still lots in the basin of course. Ridge is clear (As far as we made it).
Started at 4am, had to turn around due first to hail and snow on the ridge around 7/8am and then especially after hearing some rocks start buzzing (yikes!!)
Bailed down the south side of the ridge, got soaked by the snow/rain/hail on the way out. McCullough Gulch trail is really muddy still. 

Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 7/2/2025, By: adil
Info: McCullough Gulch trail is in good condition. A couple small snowfields to cross but they were pretty solid or could be easily walked around. Got to the upper lake around 10:30 or 11 and left the trail to try and summit Pacific Peak. I quickly had to turn around because I ran into some very soft snowfields that I would have postholed through up to my thighs. I managed to navigate around the first one but couldn't find a way around the second. Even if I had, the slope up to the saddle between Atlantic and Pacific was largely snow-covered, and I imagine it was probably too soft at that point to try and reasonably climb safely. It's probably doable if you leave a couple hours earlier than I did so that the snowfields past the upper lake are still firm enough to cross. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/29/2025, By: tymclane
Info: Tricky water/mud crossing to start. Poles were very helpful. A few very small snow crossings that can be avoided. Otherwise summer conditions. Ridge climb up pacific was great. We stayed ridge proper through the ascent. Be wary as there is some loose rock.

Highly recommend poles for the water crossing. They are also helpful for the endless rock hopping over loose rock. The descent of pacific and Atlantic requires a good bit of focus and balance with all the loose rock and no trail really.

Left upper trailhead at 5:00 AM.
Pacific summit at 8:00 AM.
Atlantic Sunmit at 9:00 AM.
Back to car at 11:30 AM.

Pics in no particular order. 

Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 5/24/2025, By: infinitealpine
Info: See Atlantic Peak for condition update and photos