1/19/2020 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 1/19/2020, By: dolfh Info: Well developed trench (6-7 hikers) from Mayflower Gulch TH up to the start of the West Ridge. |
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10/19/2019 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 10/21/2019, By: Sglm14 Info: Did Pacific to Atlantic Traverse this past Saturday. Cold all day and started out with beautiful blue skies but wind came close to noon. Full winter condition. Glad we had microspikes to use. Icy in certain sections and would be unsafe to try without proper gear |
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9/24/2019 Route: East Ridge Posted On: 9/25/2019, By: nilaoire Info: Following Dave Coopers route off Pacific, large hard snow below ridge line. Safest descent,if you descend on the left side of snow field. |
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9/21/2019 Route: North Ridge, South Ridge Posted On: 9/21/2019, By: supranihilest Info: North Ridge from Crystal Peak: A bit long and there's a ton of elevation loss, somewhere in the 700 foot range. The first half from Crystal to the saddle isn't too bad. A little loose but nothing crazy. The second half from the saddle to Pacific is quite steep. The bottom two thirds or so have a trail but again, it's steep. The rock on the ridge is actually quite stable. The peak is split at the top and is easier than it looks: a narrow trail takes you from the first, lower summit across an exposed area to the bottom of the second, higher summit. It's Class 2+ or Easy Class 3 to the summit. South Ridge to Atlantic Peak: Also long but not as much elevation loss. This is a lot more loose than the North Ridge, unfortunately, but it's not as steep. There's not much for a trail on this part so just blaze your own. There's some bumps along the way that you can either go over or skirt, it felt about the same difficulty either way. |
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9/8/2019 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 9/9/2019, By: cloudkicker Info: Dry all the way from Mayflower Gulch Road to summit. |
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8/1/2019 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 8/1/2019, By: Flyingfish Info: There are a few snow fields in the basin that you need to cross to reach the ridge but once there it is dry to the summit. |
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7/27/2019 Route: North Couloir Posted On: 7/28/2019, By: CheapCigarMan Info: Ideal conditions for the full couloir as a snow climb is over this season. It probably ended two weeks ago. Snow is still in excellent condition until the dogleg. There are two massive and very impressive cornices up until the dogleg. Once you cut left into the dogleg you are out of their worry. Most of the dogleg is now rotted snow, ice, and rock. For the ice climbers out there it is now an ice climb. David Cooper says it's one of the best alpine ice routes anywhere in the State. Agreeing with Cooper, if I were an ice climber this would definitely be on my to do list. I can see why Roach says this couloir is the finest snow climb in the Tenmile-Mosquito Range. |
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7/20/2019 Route: East Slopes Posted On: 7/22/2019, By: cdgibbons Info: Any snow can be avoided before 12,600. This was my first trip to Mohawk Lakes; it's a beautiful area and understandably popular. Snow from 12,600 to 13,400 was soft, reasonably consolidated, with a couple of icy patches and a few exposed rocks. Ridge is dry. |
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7/13/2019 Route: North Couloir Posted On: 7/13/2019, By: CheapCigarMan Info: Taken from Crystal Peak |
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7/13/2019 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 7/13/2019, By: Mattrmooney Info: Coast to Coast - Pacific West Ridge to Atlantic loop Snow Conditions - About 90-95% dry on the ridge with only minimal rerouting. Base area and bowl are still relatively covered. I would estimate about 200 feet of total snow travel if picking the shortest routes through the rocks. The snow was almost solid ice in the early am which made for easy walking without the postholes. The ridge was fairly straightforward with the route description. There is still tons of snow on the east side of the summit. The traverse over to Atlantic was a simple scramble on rock, although still plenty of snow to crampon across as well if that is your preference. If not wearing crampons, there is a small reroute on the way down Atlantic's ridge. Super loose rock, but once past the snow there are options to either descend into the gulch, cut around some difficult class 2, or ascend into some very very exposed class 3. I choose the latter which made for a cherry on top after Pacific's ridge. The rest of the trek was standard, but be prepared to get wet in the willows.. |
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6/21/2019 Route: Southeast Slopes Posted On: 6/21/2019, By: WildWanderer Info: Small segments of snow on trail beginning at Trailhead. Snowshoes needed from just before waterfall area. Tons of snow in the basin! Headwall continuous snow coverage as well. Used snowshoes until headwall, crampons and ice axe from there. Ridge to summit looks like solid snow but it's really hollow: lots of postholing. Leave the microspikes at home. |
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6/21/2019 Route: Southeast Slopes Posted On: 6/21/2019, By: WildWanderer Info: Small segments of snow on trail beginning at Trailhead. Lots of routefinding required. Snowshoes needed from just before waterfall area. Tons of snow in the basin! Headwall continuous snow coverage as well. Used snowshoes until headwall, crampons and ice axe from there. Ridge to summit looks like solid snow but it's really hollow: lots of postholing. By 7:30am the basin was mush. Leave the microspikes at home. |
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6/16/2019 Route: Y Couloir / West ridge Posted On: 6/16/2019, By: Trotter Info: Did Y couloir, temporarily renamed Snowman Couloir 2 as per snowalien request, then summited on west ridge. Down low, some postholing even at 6 am. Snowshoes useful at 11 am. The 4x4 road is a slushy mess by 11 am. Creeks are under the snow, be careful crossing snow bridges without realizing it. Y couloir in great condition. Note the sun doesn't hit it till about 9 am, so its hard icy snow earlier then that. West ridge from that point up was in good condition, didn't need crampons. Lots of verglas made it slippery until the sun warmed it up. |
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6/14/2019 Route: West Ridge Posted On: 6/14/2019, By: Ptglhs Info: Road is still holding snow from gate. Overcast midday made it tolerable, but there was still a lot of slush and water. Getting over the creeks later in the day, especially if it was sunny, would be dicey. The snow was firm on the ascent up the drainage (started @615). The summit pyramid snow was a different story all together! It was sugar stuff that was deep, unless it was close to rocks, and not firm enough to hold crampons but thick enough to really slow us down. With the exception of the initial rock outcropping around 12.8k, which we bypassed to the climbers right, stick to the ridge crest! (As the route recommends) the snow was firmer and the rock less loose. I'd honestly advise going up from the east, or giving this one a month to melt out. |
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5/14/2019 Route: East Slopes Posted On: 5/16/2019, By: grahampa Info: Snow from spruce Creek th to peak. Firm in the am, mush in the pm. Skiable in many ways. Be cautious of the overhanging cornices in the north chute. |