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Pacific Peak

Peak Condition Updates  
7/10/2011
Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 7/11/2011, By: Climbdent
Info: Climbed the North Couloir on Pacific Sunday. We left at 430 from the 4X4 trial head. Reached the base of the Couloir around 630 on excellent trail. Some rock hopping over small streams was needed. The route was in excellent shape. We were able to kick good steps most of the route. Above the dog leg, the route narrowed and became more icy. However, the ice could mostly be avoided. There were two short steps that required a basic mixed move, otherwise excellent snow conditions. We carried a rope and extra tool but was not needed. Currently the camera is MIA but check back later this week and I will post some pics. 
6/5/2011
Route: via Atlantic
Posted On: 6/5/2011, By: Monster5
Info: Route: Mayflower Gulch -> Atlantic via West Ridge (see mrickers‘ conditions report) -> Pacific -> Descent from Atlantic/Pacific saddle. RT ~ 7 mi. About 7 hrs at a comfortable pace. Ridge from Atlantic generally has talus (2+) on climber‘s left and wind-hardened, varying-angle, stable snowpack on right. Snowshoes were not used on the ridge, but they were definitely needed in the Pacific Creek drainage. Ice axes and trekking poles were used. Crampons are unnecessary, but may aid an early, fast ascent from Atlantic. We climbed the notch to the NW for fun - snow is avoidable, but plenty of loose rock. Good cornices forming on the N. Ridge. Stuck to talus and margins of 40 deg snow gullies while descending west off the saddle - no instability noted at the margins. Major posthole in the drainage. Obvious avy signs present beneath ridges. Stable in the morning; avoidable later. More pics here: https://picasaweb.google.com/105978537438093356597/PacificAtlantic652011# 
1
3/6/2011
Route: West Ridge, Atlantic West Ridge descent
Posted On: 3/8/2011, By: Voodoo302
Info: Pacific Peak‘s West Ridge is in great shape for a winter ascent; varying degrees of snow and minimal ice. We generally stayed on the south side of the ridge proper and encountered very little deep snow or large snowy areas. The saddles between Pacific and Atlantic, and Atlantic and Fletcher Peak are both relatively clear of snow. The descent via Atlantic‘s West Ridge was much less appealing. Approximately 1/3-1/2 of the way down we were stopped by 6-10ft thick, visibly layered, wind-loaded slabs on the ridge (sorry no pictures, my camera‘s battery had succumbed to the cold). This ridge is just waiting to slide, I strongly advise against travelling Atlantic‘s West Ridge until conditions improve. Because of dangerous conditions on the ridge, we descended into the Atlantic/Fletcher cirque via the (relatively) safest path we could find and met up with our approach path down Mayflower Gulch. Due to this changed descent we were unable to return to the shoulder at the base of Atlantic where we stashed our hiking poles on the approach, if anyone is planning on going that way I posted in the lost and found section here: http://www.14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=28998 Pacific is in really good shape for a winter climb but just plan for a safe descent accordingly. 
1/30/2011
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2/1/2011, By: Wyoming Bob
Info: Climbed Pacific Peak on 30 January via West Ridge. Excellent snowshoe track in place from trailhead to basin below flank of Pacific, snowshoe trail cuts off to vicinity of Crystal. We left a three person track in and out to base of West Ridge also. No avi issues on our climb. Ridge was rock and snow, no ice, melting or verglas issues. Opportunity for steep snow pitch near top. Descended North Ridge, loose and rocky, no joy.