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London Mountain

Peak Condition Updates  
10/23/2021
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 10/24/2021, By: CheapCigarMan
Info: Traction, flotation, not needed. 
3
7/10/2021
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/10/2021, By: dwoodward13
Info: London->Kuss->Mosquito->Treasurevault->Tweto loop is in full summer conditions. 
7/2/2021
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/3/2021, By: Delprincipe_mike
Info: dry to summit. 
3/3/2021
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 3/3/2021, By: WildWanderer
Info: I parked at the intersection for Mosquito Pass / 12, but could have driven up Mosquito Pass about a mile in my truck before the drifts took over. You will not be able to drive all the way to North London Mill, as there are snow drifts and a lot of ice on the road. The road had varying conditions, from bare to ice to deep snow drifts. I wore microspikes to North London Mill, as they were very helpful on the rivers of ice. From there snowshoes were necessary to the Mosquito/London saddle. Be careful on the road, as some of the drifts make for a long drop off if you slip. From the saddle I ditched traction to the summit. Beautiful day. No wind. 
12
9/16/2020
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/16/2020, By: sigepnader
Info: Dry, summer conditions. Perfect shape. A very small amount of lingering snow near summit but that should be gone very soon. 
7/3/2020
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/3/2020, By: wildlobo71
Info: Road is clear to the London Mine TH; it's got some depth of running water in places and is more suited for a good 4WD vehicle with clearance. Hiked London Mountain to the saddle of Tweto/Treasurevault before weather came in. Entire loop is clear of snow on trail - lots of good cornices remain and some snowfields but the exit basin between Tweto and Treasurevault is clean of snow, but wet. Enjoy! 
6/5/2020
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/5/2020, By: Brian Thomas
Info: Snow and running water on the road from the parking area to the London/Kuss saddle, without snowshoes it varied from supportive to thigh deep postholes. On the ridge above the saddle 99% snow free. Pics of the road taken on descent. 
2/2/2020
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2/3/2020, By: Chicago Transplant
Info: See Mosquito Gulch trailhead status for approach. From the London/Kuss saddle the ridge is mostly dry. Some short snow patches where you bypass the lower towers, some easy scrambling gets you over them. A few short strips of snow up higher. Some tracks cut those low, I went directly on the ridge crest to avoid crossing steeper slopes.

Photo 1: lower ridge
Photo 2: upper ridge 
1
10/1/2019
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 10/1/2019, By: supranihilest
Info: Easier than it looks. Follow the road from wherever you parked to the saddle of London Mountain and Kuss Peak (formerly "Repeater"); don't cut through the willows even though it looks like it might be faster. That's what I did and it's actually a lot slower and more annoying than just following the road which is a tiny bit more distance but incredibly easy, since it's a road. The ridge from the saddle looks kind of improbable but there are climber's trails through most of the rock bands, either right up them, along ledges, or up gullies. Note that everything on this mountain is quite loose so be careful doing any scrambling. I had a rock about the size of a microwave tip to 45 degrees and flop back into place when I stepped on it, even though it looked like it was sandwiched between other layers in one band. If I had put all my weight on it it probably would have flipped me right on my keister and bounced down the mountain. The rock bands transition abruptly to more open tundra; there's still rocks, just not big towers of them. The summit is farther away than you think from this point but it's all easy terrain. 
6/29/2019
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/30/2019, By: Alrightmax
Info: The avalanche debris on the road has been cleared. Still some snow drifts up the road, but they're mostly avoidable on foot. Quite a lot of snow-melt, be prepared to get your feet wet. There's Summer conditions from the Kuss saddle to summit, save for a few smaller snow patches. These too are mostly avoidable. 
10/13/2018
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 10/15/2018, By: jbealer
Info: from the road it is a mix of rock, ice and falling into deep drifts of snow. no traction used even though i brought it. what would have been a nice easy snow day out despite the wind turned into a day fighting with my dogs that did not enjoy the snow over rocks and falling into holes. guess they stay home now. Kuss had much more snow on it then London, we made it 200ft up from the saddle and my pups said no way. 
1
5/16/2017
Route: The S
Posted On: 5/16/2017, By: Built-to-Last
Info: The S on London is still in, but melting fast. With new snow that should it give a few more weeks, lots of rocks melting through lower on the line, but still a great ski 
8/12/2016
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 8/13/2016, By: jasayrevt
Info: Clear and very nice enjoyable trip w/ reaching summit. Great, beautiful 13er mountain. This quality, classic route is a unique undertaking and lightly traveled. Prime, excellent, and bluebird summer conditions up high for navigating slopes and ridge line extremely well. Trail runners and light pack were good. Climb safely / swiftly in the hills folks. Pictures included as beta 
6/28/2015
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/28/2015, By: Greenhouseguy
Info: The road is clear to within a hundred feet of the London Mine. I used snowshoes for a short distance beyond the mine, but it was probably not necessary. There were a few short stretches of snow on the road, but they were no big deal. The ridge is almost entirely clear of snow, basically summer conditions. 
8/17/2013
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 8/17/2013, By: Jay521
Info: Follow Bill's route description and you will have no problems.

Image 1 shows the summit register - I thought Bill Middlebrook might have been there.

Image 2 - Damn You Bill Middlebrook - you WERE there!