9/30/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 10/1/2011, By: kushrocks Info: Conditions were dry for the entire route until about 500 feet below the summit. Luckily this was just above the Chimney. I took the Chimney but there is an easy class 3 bypass around the corner to climbers right. Above that the snow started and remained until the summit and was icy in several spots. We had microspikes with us but didnt use them on the way up they sure were helpful on the way down on the snow especially the icy sections. With possible winter weather moving in the next few days these good conditions probably won't last too long. |
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9/25/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/25/2011, By: clochard0 Info: A layer of snow (~ 1') from ridge crest (~ 13,200') to North Maroon Peak. Passable without ice axe or crampons, but microspikes would help with the slick terrain. Class 4 section (i.e. rock bands) free of snow, but class 3 section around rock bands filled with layer of snow. 1st pic taken at ridge crest to rock band & 2nd pic taken of route after rock band. |
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8/13/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 8/15/2011, By: IHikeLikeAGirl Info: Route is snow free the entire way. Talked to some guys who did the traverse, sounds like snow is not an issue there either, if you stay on route. One guy said he made a routing error and ended up having to ascend part of the Bell Chord and was thankful to have his ice axe for that. Awesome peak, as always! :) |
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7/20/2011 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 7/23/2011, By: ajfraser81 Info: As of 7/20/11 the Northeast ridge was in good condition. Water still running fairly high at the low creek you have to ford around 10,700, but there are ways to pick across. Little snow (50 meter traverse) at the foot of the North face around 11,500 but not enough to warrant axe or crampons. Northeast ridge otherwise 98% dry to summit, so DO NOT burden yourself with the extra weight of axe or crampons - trust me. That being said, rock is loose and terrain is unforgiving with lots of potential for fatal falls even on class 2/3 stuff up high. Do not take this mountain lightly. |