North Maroon Peak

Condition Updates  
Route: N Face via NW Ridge
Posted On: 2023-05-27, By: Jcinco
Info: Despite the large amount of snow in the Elks, the N Face as a ski route is dwindling fast. Get after it right away if this is in your plans this season. The choke in the lowest chute is nearly melted out requiring a small huck. See the beta photos I added. You can just make out the pinch in the lowest chute in the photo taken from Maroon Lake. Having tried to ski this previously by directly climbing the face, the NW Ridge via the Gunsight couloir is a much better climbing option. 
Route: Area
Posted On: 2023-05-15, By: WillRobnett
Info: Bells holding a lot of snow up high. Trail by Maroon Lake mostly melted out. 
Route: From Snowmass Creek
Posted On: 2023-03-19, By: Will_E
Info: No summit. Attempted to get N Maroon via Gunsight Couloir, turned back just below the couloir after seeing not great snow conditions. Trailbreaking was brutal today, I had a skin track to follow the first 4 miles from Snowmass Creek TH, after that I was on my own, snow was really deep and soft, especially after turning off the Snowmass trail to get to the backside of the bells. Routefinding was tough in the dark, my route is vey likely the worst route anyone could find to get to treeline. Seriously, it's really an inefficient route. Every slope that goes up and comes right back down, I was able to find. 
8 4
Route: NW Ridge
Posted On: 2023-03-10, By: illusion7il
Info: I got to congratulate the "Dream Team" around 1am when they finished as I was gearing up. Best of luck and safe travels to Chris on the last 2 routes he needs to complete. Surprisingly, with the over night snow shower and the wind, a lot of there skin tracks were swept away, especially in open areas. My method of travel was a little outdated using snowshoes, but the snow was really supportive anyway. No flotation was needed near and above treeline because the snow was all hard wind slab. The snow in the couloir was excellent for climbing. The snow traverse around the gunsight tower felt like it was darn near vertical. After the gunsight traverse, I found the route finding to the summit very complicated. Roach's description doesn't do much good here. I'm impressed as this was a interesting mountain that will test all skills, with a long approach, moderate couloir climb, steep snow traverse, tuff route finding, and some mixed class 3/4 rock climbing. The cold temps and high winds certainly didn't make things any easier. 20 hours 
8 3
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2022-09-29, By: -wren-
Info: North and NW aspects in the Elks right now are holding enough snow to spice things up a little. In particular for this route - the descent of Maroon to the saddle with North Maroon was definitely more involved than it would've been if completely dry. Anywhere from 1-4 inches of snow covering probably 30-40 percent of the ground. The upper section of the descent from N. Maroon held similar conditions. Microspikes would have been more cumbersome than helpful IMO. With more snow showers to come in the next few days and the high temps dropping back into the low 40s/high 30s I don't expect things to improve too much until next year. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-09-26, By: 13erRetriever
Info: Ice and snow starts just before the chimney and made this already spicy peak eeeeeextra spicy yesterday. Spikes were necessary for us above the chimney to the summit but an ice ax wouldn't have served any purpose. I almost cried at the thought of having to go back down the icy chimney but by a stroke of luck found the class 3 bypass, which was even more iced over but slightly less terrifying. Rest of the route is dry below the chimney. Bill's route description is spot on. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-09-25, By: phaas34
Info: 100ft below and above the chimney are snow/ice covered and a little sketchy. Micro spikes and ice-axes helped our crew get a successful summit bid 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-09-18, By: jfm3
Info: Attempted North Maroon on September 18. The entire route to the top of the second gully is dry. Immediately (as in, the first step onto the ridge from the top of the gully) upon reaching the ridge, the route is covered with snow. It was still cold enough that the snow was not melting on the north side of the ridge at ~10:15 AM. There was just enough snow to cover all the loose rock. I turned around and descended without reaching the top. One other person was on the mountain. I talked to him at the gully crossover. He made the top but said it was extremely sketchy- in addition to the snow, many of the rocks above the chimney were iced over. There is not enough snow (and it is not crunchy/consolidated enough) for crampons and microspikes did not seem wise with that much slick cover on the loose, uneven rock. Unless it is 60 degrees up there for a week, this might be the end of the dry season for North Maroon. 
5 6
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-09-07, By: HikesInGeologicTime
Info: An otherwise gorgeous day was somewhat marred by wildfire smoke from out of state, but it didn't seem bad enough to hinder gasping for air. Chimney is pretty fun with a rappel! 
2 7
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2022-08-28, By: Cygnus X1
Info: Dry across the traverse except for the last couple hundred feet up the west face to the peak. There was some verglas, remnants of recent snow, and even some of the kitty litter was frozen. Still safe but some extra caution is warranted. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-08-28, By: swesleyc7
Info: Summer-like conditions. The two gullies are very green with grass and flowers, which is nice. Pika are running around, gathering large bunches of mountain salad in their mouths - pretty cute. Light rain is occurring during early hours and after noon as we enter the Fall. Winds are increasing and temps were in the mid-50's. The summit is clean. 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2022-07-31, By: MountainBuhn
Info: Shuttled in Saturday and camped at Crater. Rain pretty much all evening/night worried our chances for a Sunday attempt at the traverse. Woke up Sunday with beautiful conditions and nearly spotless sky until 10am. Summited Maroon at 7:15. NM at 8:50. 1:20 traverse time. Traverse Notes: Downclimb from maroon should not be overlooked. Definitely some class 4 moves, not even mentioning the one to the Cord. Rock is pretty good on the first spire. Even on the exposed ridge. Downclimb off the ridge prior to 2nd spire was not bad at all. 2nd spire has great hand and foot. Only slight movement on the rock. I thought a little overhyped tbh. 3rd spire, higher 5 option was definitely the most difficult of the day. Still not bad when you know the move. Under the green rock overhang look and maneuver left to climb the exposed corner. Great holds this way. Loose rock rest of way, but easier climbing. This was our 3rd traverse (Crestone and Diente). Definitely most technical, but Diente was far more exhausting and the last 40 feet of Crestone had more exposure imo. This was short and took no time if you know route. 56, 57 in the books. Only Little Bear left. 
5 5
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-14, By: E_A_Marcus_949
Info: Summer conditions! No snow on route. Creek/stream crossing flowing but doable. 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2022-07-11, By: Will_Quillman
Info: Summer conditions up South Maroon, across the traverse, and down North Maroon. This traverse was freaking awesome. Make sure you pay attention to the route for the way down off South, we got ourselves into a little bind hanging too far hikers right. The rock was pretty loose, make sure holds are solid before you pull. Took us roughly 2 hours, would have been 1.5 if we didn't get into that bind on the descent from South. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-07-05, By: demmons1
Info: 99% summer conditions. Creek still running a little high. May take a little scouting to find a place to cross with dry feet. Rock glacier can be traversed snow-free. Chimney has a little sniff of snow at the base just enough to make your shoes slippery for the ascent. However, by the time you get there, the snow will be melted away. See pictures describing above. BTW....better get to the summit soon before the peak has crumbled to less than 14k ft. It's a mess. Wear sunscreen and a brain bucket. 
4 2
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-29, By: JROSKA
Info: There are two minor snow fields to cross in the rock glacier. Crossed both carefully with just one pole and no traction. There is still some snow and ice at the base of the chimney. Other than that, summer conditions on this route. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-26, By: Wimyers
Info: Brought crampons and didn't use, brought and used the axe but it wasn't helpful because the remaining snow was rotten and unsupportive (though we were up there pretty late). The route is nearly snow free, though. There is a good anchor above the chimney if you are inclined to rappel that section. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2022-06-10, By: bmcqueen
Info: Snowshoes not needed, but crampons and axe still recommended. The rock glacier is still mostly snow covered with a couple of traverses where the axe was nice. Gully 1 is almost entirely snow free. Gully 2 has some snow left, but it's melting fast and is mostly avoidable if you follow rock bands up. The ridge has a decent amount of snow left. The bottom of the chimney has snow that actually made the entry easier. Exit of the chimney was dry. The rest of the route was a mix of snow and rock. Added a pic looking across at Thunder. 
6 9
Route: Standard to Trigger Finger Couloir
Posted On: 2022-05-13, By: Will_E
Info: Summitted N Maroon today, road is closed 5.5 miles from Maroon Lake, but 100% dry. Trail starts dry, then intermittent snow, full snow coverage begins just before branching off and crossing the creek. I went along the standard route, branched off at Trigger Finger Couloir, then along the West ridge to summit. That West ridge is spicy. I only used snowshoes a short distance, snow was pretty good, even late morning. I went up the couloir around 4 am, nice and stiff. Came down around 9-10 am, it was just about perfect. Needed Crampons from base of Couloir, along the west ridge, and back down. Will add pics later. 
6 7
Route: Stammberger Ledges (North Face)
Posted On: 2022-05-02, By: dweiss45
Info: Mix of snow and dry on the approach starting at Maroon Lake, continuous snow at the river crossing to enter the North Maroon amphitheater, Corn snow (when timed right) in the amphitheater, variable snow up to the 2 cliff band, packed powder above that to the summit. Should be good skiing on a warmer day! We dropped at around 11, but it never warmed up. 

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