North Maroon Peak

Route: Traverse, NW Ridge, others
Posted On: 5/18/2018, By: Eli Boardman
Info: Traverse:
I did the traverse this morning, leaving S Maroon around 7:30 and summiting N Maroon around 9. All 3 crux rock bands are more or less dry. However, passing the 2nd tower requires traversing 45+ degree snow in a no-fall zone. This section is serious right now and should not be underestimated. I only used crampons and axe on that section of the traverse. The final climb to N Maroon is also dry.

Northwest Ridge:
I descended the northwest ridge to the gunsight couloir. The ridge has enough snow to make crampons and an axe a good idea. The gunsight couloir is in decent condition except for a sizable cornice. I don't recommend this route until the cornice falls. I descended it around 10:30 and the snow was just right for kicking steps.

Other routes:
I saw a boot track on the N face, not sure when it was put in. The NE ridge (standard route) is very snowy and looked sketchy; I didn't see any tracks going that way yet. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 12/29/2017, By: soloclimber97
Info: Road to Maroon lake is completely packed down from all the snowmobiles, so no need for snowshoes to get to the lake. Getting to the trail junction just before crater lake would be tough w/o snow shoes (a lot of post-holing). I made it past the rock glacier and continued across the face of N Maroon, I ended up turning around before entering the first gully around 12k. Snow was not in good shape and I felt it wasn't worth continuing. I'll probably go back and take Bell Cord. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/26/2017, By: bmcqueen
Info: It snowed a few inches Saturday afternoon, so we found 2-3 inches in the first and second gullies and up to 6" on the north slopes up high on the ridge Sunday. The crux was giving me problems, so went to the Class 3 bypass on the right. That was tougher in snow also. Without crampons, it would have been a no go. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/12/2017, By: Elkmtns17
Info: The Bells got some new snow last night. I was hoping that North Maroon may still be hike able today. I set out around 530am. The initial approach had some puddles but nothing serious. I hiked through the first gully which had some wet rock and mud but nothing I couldn't hike through. Upon completing the first gully and traversing to the second gully I passed a guide and his client on their way down. He told me that the second gully was really wet. He said hiking up it may be manageable but going down would be the problem. He said they had decided to turn back at that point. I took his advice and kept on hiking with the idea in mind that I would be turning around. Around 12,600 feet I was at the second gully. It was covered in snow and melting fast. The conditions were less than ideal and looked very hazardous. I decided to take the guides advice and turn back myself. Going down the first gully was pretty slick and muddy. At that point I knew I had made the right choice. The trail conditions are less than ideal. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/21/2017, By: Kevo
Info: Ideal conditions. The route is dry and in good condition the from the stream crossing to the summit. N Maroon felt way more solid than Pyramid in terms of rock quality. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/17/2017, By: PeteHunter83
Info: NE standard route can now be done without bringing traction. Water crossing before the boulder field is a bit deep but can be done without water past the ankles. A pole is real helpful. The snow at the traverse out of the rock glacier is easily avoidable. May have to make 1 or 2 steps in it at the narrow spot. Gully 1 and 2 are clear of snow (1 itty bitty patch climbers left near the top gully 2). There is snow leading up to the crux and a small patch of ice at the start. Snow is mostly avoidable but your feet may be wet for the start of the crux climb and will have to start on the ice. The precipice has snow on it still but it is flat and easy going. The few patches of snow from there to the summit are avoidable. 

Route: North Face
Posted On: 5/25/2017, By: sstratta
Info: Very thin conditions in the second cliff band and weird snow from the most recent storm, but still skiable 

Route: N face
Posted On: 4/14/2017, By: lodgling
Info: N face is in great condition -- still holding cold stable snow. Punk rock band easy to navigate around on skis. Road still gated at the ranch and dry for the first few miles. 

Route: NW Ridge
Posted On: 12/24/2016, By: Yikes
Info: Very long hike in, but good conditions on the mountain. While the Sawatch apparently has deep sugar, Aspen snow is pretty manageable. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/29/2016, By: crazymarmot
Info: "Technical" season has started. Below 13k was plenty of mud which made it for a slippery climb. Above 13k snow/ice started. Snow consistency was sugar with depth anywhere from 3" to mid-calf deep. Due to consistency and depth, crampons are little help since you sink right to the ground, while without them it is very slippery. Ice axes were really nice.

Punk rock band crux: Technical - All the holds are covered in ice/snow. Downclimbing is nearly impossible at this time, and due to it's shady location I do not see a possibility of the ice leaving till next spring. Rope is a must for most (unless you can downclimb using tools - not recommended), and highly suggesting to pitch out this section on the way up. I did climb it without a rope with a spotter, I would have been a lot more comfortable pitching this out. New sling is placed on top of this section. Please remember to inspect it for integrity and animal/weather/abrasion damage.

BONUS: Downclimbed a good section (about 400-500 vert) of the ridge between the summit and "Gunsight". Snow amount was negligible, easy to avoid. Can not report on the rest of the route, but my gut feeling tells me there probably isn't much snow/ice on this ridge. Not sure on the full beta of the route, make sure you can climb up/down to Gunsight.

Good luck! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/18/2016, By: mikemalick
Info: Route is mostly dry until just below the chimney. The chimney has some ice and snow on all the ledges, but we were still able to make it up that route. The class 3 bypass has lots of snow on every stinkin' ledge.

Just a little snow and ice between the chimney and summit. Most of that can be avoided. I would recommend spikes for the descent. Opted for the bypass on the way down and really wish I had them. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/7/2016, By: Andrew
Info: Route is in good condition. There is a little water in several places high up, but it does not cause any problems. The crux is clear.

We were the only people on North Maroon that I saw. There were four people on the summit of Maroon Peak, so I'm guessing that route is decent as well. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/1/2016, By: goingup
Info: I do not understand what all the whoo haaa over the class 4 chimney in these condition reports is about? My group had myself (100 pound girl), another girl (115 pounds) and two dudes one was (a shorter 170 pounds) the other (a big 6'4 190 pounds) and a DOG and we ALL ascended and descended the class 4 chimney just fine. The bigger guys used the ledge above to pull themselves up while I squeezed up the crack/crevice all the way to the top. If you can make three class 4 moves you should have zero issue with this crux.

2 weeks prior to my successful summit I was stormed off 500 feet from the summit. I had issues locating the chimney (as the cairn shown in photos is no longer at the base and I did not correctly negotiate the ledges from the notch to ridge proper). I tried to find the alternative class 3 route around and it was drenched in slimy wet gross loose exposed rock.

In my opinion, climb the class 4 chimney. It is only a little bit tricky but a lot of fun.

Be concerned with the REST of the mountain which is a scary loose pile of crap. Rock bombs were flying on summit day and it wasn't the dog who sent one of them (all human triggered). 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/15/2016, By: oldgrayhair
Info: I can confirm that the conditions are in summertime conditions per the previous reports and the attached picture of the 2nd gulley, and bring plenty of water since the last source is the creek crossing prior to ascending the scree field. When in the second gulley, the trail will lead you up and toward the left side of its top; make sure to head for the notch in Photo 32 of the Northeast Ridge description where you will find the easiest way up the cliff band at the top of the gulley. Also, be aware of mountain goats; I have attached pictures. The goat followed me up the 1st and 2nd gulley, then charged me at the crest of the gulley. After I retreated off the top of the second gulley, I was followed all the way to treeline after the rock glacier. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/10/2016, By: tleh
Info: The class 4 chimney has a large boulder on top end of chimney. The top 3 inches (appx) is sheared and broken in one slab. It twisted in the hands of my climbing partner and she let go and slid. Beware of this area.