9/18/2022 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 9/20/2022, By: carlycaprio Info: South slopes are dry, north slopes are iced and snowed out. We were going for the North Buttress but decided against it and packed over to Kilpacker. South slopes were dry, steep, and confusing at times but overall doable. Only sketchy part was when we reached the saddle and switched over to the north (snowy) side for the remaining 300 ft pitch to the summit. With no traction or ice axe, we held tightly to good hand holds. We made it through but I don't recommend it without snow gear. Traverse was in good shape - no snow except on the north side sections. |
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9/17/2022 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 9/18/2022, By: scvaughn Info: Dry conditions on most of the route, but there is some snow and ice above 13,700'. I summited with microspikes, but decided against the traverse. Much of the ice was avoidable, but not all of it. |
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9/4/2022 Route: North Buttress Posted On: 9/6/2022, By: E_A_Marcus_949 Info: North Buttress is a great route. Mostly solid rock, though check holds per usual in this basin. Great alternative to standard and fairly straight forward, just know the route as cairns are sparse. |
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7/22/2022 Route: North Slopes Posted On: 7/24/2022, By: Dignus Info: I climbed the North Buttress but this is just to emphasize that the North Slopes should not be climbed now. Several large rockslides occurred from climbers above as I neared the ridge and a hit would likely be fatal, even with a helmet. As for the buttress, super fun and fairly straight forward. If anyone is up for a scavenger hunt I lost the bite valve to my camelbak about 2/3rds of the way up. Happy hunting! |
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7/16/2022 Route: North Buttress Posted On: 7/17/2022, By: van_w Info: North buttress and traverse to Mt. Wilson are dry as can be. |
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7/9/2022 Route: North Buttress Posted On: 7/10/2022, By: b_esker Info: N Buttress and traverse to Mt. Wilson both snow free. Full summer conditions. Very buggy down at camp (Navajo lake). |
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7/2/2022 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 7/4/2022, By: durkan Info: Avoidable snow from Kilpacker TH; traction not needed. Ripe for the picking. Had some bigger looser rocks shift so be cautious. Weather prevented a traverse attempt with our party. |
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6/17/2022 Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse Posted On: 6/18/2022, By: goldenrad Info: Agree with jlohmann's report. There was a snow field before the red rib that I used crampons, just for comfort, but it wasn't necessary. I brought them because of the traverse. The traverse is dry! The descent down Mt. Wilson's Southwest slopes still has snow which provided a quick glissade down with some questionable weather moving in. |
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6/16/2022 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 6/17/2022, By: jlohmann Info: Summer conditions. A few snow patches. Easily crossed. While I did not cross the traverse to Mt Wilson, both looked dry. |
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5/28/2022 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 5/29/2022, By: jfm3 Info: I climbed El Diente in combination with Mt. Wilson (no traverse- I used the separate south-side routes for each mountain). The climb up the south slopes above the Mt. Wilson split is in mixed condition. It is possible to stay on snow until ~13,500 feet. The final gully to the ridge is dry. The snow on the north side of the ridge from the top of the gully to the summit is high-consequence. The snow covers the ledges and the final short traverse and climb were quite serious. I used a short ice axe and strap-on crampons in running shoes and felt secure, but this is not the place to lose traction. Descending back to the basin was a mix of steep downclimbing on snow and very slow, annoying walking down the loose talus & scree. |
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5/27/2022 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 5/28/2022, By: -wren- Info: Pick your poison. I pieced together tongues of snow and short bare patches from around 12,6 to 13,8 and on the way down I was on dry terrain for most of the way. You will still definitely be on some snow and it is steep enough that I would reccomend axe and pons. The last bit of scrambling has some icy spots but nothing that really hinders movement. Approach has bits of snow but nothing worth flotation. Planned on the grand slam but I was on El Diente too late to feel safe descending Wilson's North Slopes (still 100% a snow climb) after 2 more hours of sun - it was getting hammered already just before 8 AM. South side of rock of ages saddle looked very dry, as did the traverse to Wilson and the scrambling on gladstone and wilson pk. It was HOT by 10 AM below treeline. Not warm, like shirtless in running shorts hot. |
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10/5/2021 Route: Kilpacker Approach Posted On: 10/7/2021, By: Will_E Info: Did the Wilson-El Diente traverse Tuesday from Kilpacker. A lot more snow than I expected, particularly up high. I went up Wilson first via the SW slopes, then across the traverse to El Diente. Did a variation at the end of El Diente that went south of the summit and up a gully, the north side had more snow. I took microspikes with, but never ended up using them. |
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10/4/2021 Route: North Slopes Posted On: 10/9/2021, By: jfm3 Info: I climbed Wilson Peak on Monday October 4 and had a good look at the north side of the mountain. |
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9/26/2021 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 9/27/2021, By: mtgoatmike Info: The route descriptions, once above treeline, are pretty accurate. There is snow along the route on the north side, just prior to the summit. Traction would have been nice, but is doable without. The snow has a fall line towards a dramatic drop, but there are stable rocks on your left (when climbing up) to hold on to for support. |
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9/25/2021 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 9/27/2021, By: cklaiber Info: Went for the traverse from Kilpacker basin starting with El Diente. The whole south slopes route to the summit was in summer conditions although there is some snow on the North side of the mountain lingering from a week or so back. I did happen to leave a jacket/ hoody on the summit of El Diente (green and maroon Melanzana hoodie that has some sentimental value to me) I would really love to get it back if anyone happened to grab it! Will buy you beer or dinner!! We stayed high on the traverse and again avoided all snow to the summit of Mt. Wilson. Overall a beautiful day with excellent conditions for the whole day. There was virtually no wind either which made for some pleasant time on the summits. Would've been a perfect day in the mountains spent with good company if it wasn't for my bone-headed mistake of leaving my jacket behind. I am thankful this mistake in the alpine did not prove to be more costly. |
