El Diente Peak

Route: Navajo Lake Approach
Posted On: 5/4/2026, By: ericahlstedt
Info: We booted up and skied the Fox Traverse / Luttrell line, and it currently goes with continuous snow from the summit to about 11800ft, then its discontinuous, but mostly rideable snow to Navajo Lake at 11,200.

Cloudy skies kept the super exposed SE facing hanging snowfield "fox traverse" from getting too soft/dangerous. On a sunny, warmer day would definitely need to be earlier.

Above 12400ft snow was soft, cold, powdery. All-time stable riding conditions.

5am start, 1pm summit, 5pm back to car.
13.5 miles, 5400ft vert, 12 hrs.

The road to Navajo Lake TH is pretty much snow free and clear from both directions, Dolores/Dunton, or Lizard Head Pass.

The trail is pretty much dry and in good condition from the TH for the first 2.5 mi. Above 10,000, after the Kilpacker junction, some patchy, thin snow, here and there. We hiked without issue all the way to Navajo Lake where we put skins on to the base of the couloir.

Chute 1 has a short AI/WI 1+ ice bulge, easy enough to front point up with 1 axe. Chute 2 is hidden and goes lookers left off where Chute 1 ends, near 13,600. Chute 2 leads to the hanging snowfield "fox traverse" at near 13,800. One final chute goes straight up to the summit.

3rd time attempting to ski this line, super sick line and well worth the hike in. Went from Rock of Ages/Silverpick basin the first 2 tries. 

Route: Navajo Lake Approach
Posted On: 4/22/2026, By: Splitboard14ers
Info: I was able to drive to the Navajo Lake trailhead (7 miles from HWY 145). The road was dry for first 3 miles, then had a few patches of snow, but a pair of tire tracks through them had already been made, and snow was firm. On some of the patches high clearance is necessary. There is one patch near the junction of Dunton Rd (I think) which was long, about 500 feet in length, and the snow tracks through it were not very straight or even. I gave it the gas and powered through. But on the way back it looked like I could spot a section where someone had gotten stuck in it. About 5-6 miles in THERE ARE 2 LARGE BOULDERS IN THE ROAD AND YOU HAVE TO SQUEEZE BETWEEN THEM. A large vehicle will not fit through. I drive a 1999 Jeep Cherokee and it just barely made it through with only a few inches on either side. Someone may end up moving these boulders off the road, but until they do, this is a vital step if you are trying to get to the Navajo Lake Trailhead.

From the trailhead the going is very easy and pleasant for quite a ways. Not much snow on trail until about the junction to Kilpacker trail. From then on up it was on and off snow. Snow was stable and firm on entrance. All the way up to Navajo Lake it was more dry than snow covered. Then starting at the area of Navajo Lake onward it was consistent snow coverage. Snow remained firm as I approached to the North Slopes route and to the couloir.

I climbed the couloir. It began as firm snow down at the apron, but quickly turned softer and deeper in the couloir. By mid way up the couloir it was ankle to knee deep each step, with even a few steps going waist deep. It took approx 2-3 hours to boot pack the couloir.

From the top of the couloir I chose to traverse the ridge crest to Summit. It took about 2 hours and involved a lengthy commitment of high exposure and some class 4 sections. I reached the Summit, then returned using a slightly lower route below ridge crest *(the documented route on 14ers.com) till I was back to the top of the couloir.

I strapped in and snowboarded down the couloir in very good snow conditions. It being North Facing had stayed cold and protected from the heat of the Sun. The turns were grand. From the bottom of the couloir across back down to Navajo Lake there was some ride-able sections, and there was some unstrapping and walking across rocks.

From Navajo Lake back down on hike out snow had softened up but was still somewhat firm and I did not sink more than a few inches per step. By the time I reached the forest once off the ridge, the snow was softer, and some deeper sinking occured.

The remainder of the hike out was still pleasant. The day was long.
15.42 miles RT
5799' vertical feet
15 Hours 28 Minutes RT 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 10/3/2025, By: ColoNativeGal
Info: These conditions are as of Thursday, there is a storm coming in Fri-Sat that is supposed to drop 3-5" of new snow, so take this report with a grain of salt. All north faces and places with shade are holding snow. We had frost on the talus early morning, made it tricky to avoid slipping. Once you pass through the notch to the north side there is snow. It was a combination of snow and grapple which made an interesting mix, plus warm temps offered some melt. We put on spikes, but honestly I don't think they did much other than offer piece of mind. It was pretty slippery. On the final pitch to the summit we were unable to cross the small gully. We tried the harder route up and over, but all places let to the same crossing of this gully, which if one were to slip it would instantly turn into an alpine slide of death. We tried some class 4 moves in spikes, but still couldn't get pass this damn gully. Dry no issue. More consolidated snow with an ice axe no issues. Even if we had an ice axe on us, it wouldn't have been able to get purchase on anything to arrest a fall. We were literally 80ft of gain from the summit and had to sadly turn around. Live to climb another day. There was one other person and we weren't sure if they summited El D or not (we didn't see any footprints in the snow), they did the traverse but turned around when they got closer to Mt W and back tracked to a gully they could bail off the traverse. 

Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 9/29/2025, By: Jonathan Deffenbaugh
Info: Mixed climbing conditions the further you go up on El Diente. Solid alternative to the other routes, but had microspikes and an ice axe for the upper sections. Followed the route sections referenced. Brought crampons but weren't needed. Ended up taking the right variation at the summit headwall referenced, due to lesser snow involved since the upper slabs were caked with new snow. Will post pics. 

Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 9/8/2025, By: David Sandretto
Info: Despite the fresh snow on 9/6/25, the route was already clear. 

Route: Mt. Wilson + El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 8/26/2025, By: Kbrown321
Info: Traverse + standard routes from Kilpacker. Awesome traverse, one of my favorite scrambles. Didn’t find the rock to be too loose especially around the areas where it counted and all cruxes were manageable. Full summer conditions though had to quick exit Wilson due to incoming weather. 

Route: Mt. Wilson + El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 8/26/2025, By: dakotasmama
Info: The first three miles to the Kilpacker Creek crossing and the start of the dispersed camping sites is easy. Once you cross the creek the elevation gain is nonstop and the talus is never-ending. If you take nothing else on this hike, take your helmet. My first attempt was on Saturday, August 9th and I was struck by massive rockfall triggered by a group ahead of me in the grey gully. Even though I wasn’t directly below them and stayed about 50 feet to the left of the gully while they were navigating it, the rocks started bouncing once they picked up speed and two slammed directly into my right thigh and knee, causing such massive pain and swelling that at first I thought it must be broken. Luckily it was just deep widespread bruising and abrasions, though limping back down to camp from that point was brutal. Even if you are very careful, the opportunity to start rockfall is constant once you get above 13k, and the rocks don’t stop for a LONG time. The summits of both El Diente and Mt. Wilson are very small, rocky and narrow, I didn’t see any survey markers. As far as the traverse goes, I cannot believe it’s only considered a Class 4. It is FAR steeper and complicated than it looks in the photos in the route description. I don’t know anything other than what I’ve learned from summitting 52/58 of these things, but there wasn’t a second on any other mountain, including the entire Elk Range, that I felt as terrified as I did on this traverse. Most of the rock is stable but if it isn’t it starts a rockfall every time. There are multiple extremely exposed sections, and even though you would probably survive a fall from them, you definitely wouldn’t survive getting caught up in the rockfall you would likely trigger. Don’t expect to traverse quickly, don’t expect it to be as simple as it looks in the route description photos, and DON’T attempt it if it’s wet or windy. The descent from Mt. Wilson was as miserable as everyone says it is, endless loose talus and nonstop route finding. There were only a couple of avoidable patches of snow. These are two serious mountains and this hike is mentally and physically exhausting - plan for extra time, wear your helmet, and stay alive. 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 8/12/2025, By: Ariella6
Info: Trailhead dry and summer conditions. Please wear your helmet once you are nearing the gulley...... was fairly substantial rock slide on our trip there. Lots of people down below. One person got hit in the leg with a flying rock. Considering the size of the rocks being thrown down the hill everyone was pretty fortunate.

Summit is small. Please do plan on sharing if you others come up while you are there. 

Route: Mt. Wilson + El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 7/28/2025, By: maylemay1
Info: Did the traverse from the Kilpacker side. Camped near the stream crossing about 3 miles from the TH. Trail is snow free expect for the descent down Wilson. Still a few small snowfields to cross that weren't a problem in the afternoon. Snow could be largely avoided with additional boulder hopping if desired. The talus is endless on the descent; prepare your ankles. 

Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 7/13/2025, By: Christensenje
Info: El Diente via N Buttress with Traverse to Wilson: Good to go! 99.9% summer conditions.

N Buttress: one minor snow patch on the last 400 feet nearing the summit that you have to work around or over, but doable without anything extra. Pictured attached.

Nothing notable on the traverse to Mount Wilson snow wise.

Picture attached of north face of Wilson snow coverage for descent. Ice axe was nice for glissading after we felt the slope angle lessen as the top half is pretty steep. Not a very enjoyable descent. Very loose.

Went over and summitted Wilson peak. Snow free 

Route: Mt. Wilson + El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 7/7/2025, By: Kpirrie0502
Info: Did the El Diente to Mount Wilson traverse on 7/6/2025. We started at 5:30 am.

El Diente has one tiny snow crossing that had footprints kicked in pretty well, but it is VERY easy to avoid. My partner walked it with no microspikes or crampons, but I just went up and around. The traverse is snow-free. Coming down Mount Wilson, there was one section of snow to the left (the first spot) you encounter, and it looks like there are some good deep tracks. However, we easily trended to the right and got down without trouble. Then you hit the big snow field, which is unavoidable. My partner didn't use microspikes and slid on his butt down. I just threw mine on to help slow me down since it was going a little fast, but honestly, it was so much fun. No danger there. No ice axe or crampons needed anywhere. I hate going down snow and can honestly say that it was a blast to just slide down on my butt, lol. Saved time on my feet too. It was such a FUN day! I can't believe how much fun that traverse is. We followed all the route descriptions and pictures from the 14ers website, and that was the best way to go. Save yourself some time route-finding on your own and use that info. If you're a climber like me, you're going to have fun cruising some V0 blocks for a mile :) 

Route: Mt. Wilson + El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 7/6/2025, By: ochres
Info: completed the traverse on 4/5. a couple low/no consequence snow fields as you’re starting up from the basin to diente. holding a bit of snow in one of the notches but should melt out pretty fast, and two more patches as you near the summit block that will probably be there for another couple weeks. both can be bypassed by staying to the climber’s left on solid rock and skirting up and around. would absolutely recommend avoiding the last patch. it’s steep with a quick drop off, i don’t think you’d be able to self arrest quickly enough if you slid.

traverse was mostly dry, but wilson is still holding a ton of snow on the standard route descent. would recommend an axe and microspikes for the next few weeks.

the first snowfield coming down is steep though if you lost control glissading, you’d probably be okay since it gets less steep towards the bottom though there are some exposed rocks. a couple more snowfields to get back to the talus field.

there were two SAR missions unfolding and a helicopter flying over the ridge as we were hiking out. talked to the team about one of the parties that we saw off route. please be safe out there! there are no bail out points once you’re on the ridge. 

Route: Mt. Wilson + El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 7/7/2025, By: lauren_exploring_
Info: From Kilpacker TH to South Slopes is in summer condition. The South Slopes has a pretty high rockfall hazard to be aware of - helmets are necessary. There are a few dicey snow patches just below the summit, but there are nice kick steps in there to get up it, and it was easy with poles/axe and microspikes. There is also a way to climb up and traverse above it as well.
On the Traverse, it's mostly dry with a few icy rocks in the gully after "West Wilson" class 2 section. There is a gully right after a significant down climb before the last bit of climbing to Mt. Wilson's summit that looked like it could be a good bail out point.
The class 4 section was lots of fun and solid. The descent from Mt. Wilson summit to Southwest Slopes has a lot of lingering snow fields that an ice axe and spikes would be helpful for. The rockfall on these slopes is extremely high and none of the rock is very solid. We also saw a large boulder just come down on it's own, so things are loose and shift easily. There were 4 very glissadeable snowfields once you're down most of the steep slopes. If you are looking for perfect summer conditions - it is not here! I would give it another 2-3 weeks before you'd be able to avoid all of the snow. 

Route: Navajo Lake Approach
Posted On: 7/14/2025, By: Suley888
Info: There is still plenty of snow in the coulier, but it's oatmeal by 9 am. Start early and be quick, we had to abort after climbing 85 percent and go over the organ pipes to reach the traverse. Not a fun time.

The rest of the traverse is summer conditions. North slopes on mount wilson has some snow in its gullies but they're all avoidable if you dont want to bother. 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 6/24/2025, By: mcosby
Info: Route in pretty good condition. Still some snow crossings getting into the basin (spikes and axe recommended). Only intermittent snow between the basin and summit that can be significantly minimized, but not avoided.

Also the El Diente - Mt Wilson traverse looks to be almost entirely dry. I likely would have gone for the traverse if weather had been bluebird, but some darker cloudy skies made me opt for a quick bail option, so I just did both standard routes and made it a long morning.