El Diente Peak

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 8/22/2023, By: doeeth
Info: So I now understand why most people complete this traverse from El Diente (way more downclimbing when coming from Mt Wilson, class 3-4). The routes on El Diente are loose and challenging, and next time I would opt to ascend North Buttress or South Slopes of El Diente if doing the traverse. To summarize, I hiked up to Navajo lake on 8/19, summited Wilson Peak, slept at my campsite for awhile before starting Mt Wilson North Slopes to El Diente traverse, then South Slope descent into Kilpacker Basin. Due to a conditions/trail review that suggested using microspikes and an ice axe, I brought both (and used neither). I encountered nearly zero snow leading up Mt Wilson North slopes (as well as Wilson Peak). North Slopes of El Diente was originally my plan for descent as it leads to Navajo basin. I had intended to do the route this direction because I was under the assumption that the North slopes route has the fantastic ridge crux climb. However, any route coming from the north, east, or west on the ridge (including the traverse) will climb up, then downclimb this section. The class 4 section was fantastic quality and holds, and was my favorite part of the whole trip. Wilson Peak's summit scramble was also very fun. Anywho, the North Slopes route on El Diente looked like a few hundred feet of chossy nightmare leading to a fractured snowfield. There also was not any obvious trail leading to the base of the suggested gully. I would not recommend this route to any sound of mind human, unless you want to put on crampons after this loose choss field; the snow on North face of this massif is almost bullet proof in the AM. Perhaps in the afternoon it may be tolerable but I did not test this theory out. Doing the traverse from Mt Wilson after camping at Navajo Lake meant that I needed to either reascend to the lake to grab my gear (extra 4 miles and 1,500 feet gain likely) or carry everything with me. So my pack was roughly 20 lbs, plus I filled up 3 liters of water at the base of the North slope, of which I only drank probably .75 L during the traverse, and probably 0.5 on the descent from El Diente after deciding to throw out 1.5 L at the start of that descent. First of all, the route finding from Mt Wilson to El Diente starts out somewhat poorly, but I was able to turn on my phone (low battery) for brief periods to use the GPS map. The section where there is a class 4 chimney was tough to descend with a 20 lbs pack. Lots of loose rocks in this section, which I kicked some down. Most of the El Diente side of the traverse is straight class 2-3, with easier route finding. The final descent down South Slopes of El Diente was chossy, w loose rocks all the way until you get below treeline. I thought the Navajo Lakes trail to Mt wilson had significantly less loose rocks, or walking over huge rocks beds. I did glissade 2 sections of snowfields, with the first one remaining on route, and the second leading to some of the loosest, of route-iest bull crap class 2 and 3 I've had the displeasure of sliding down precariously. All in all, I would not take back any decisions I made on this trip. By day 2, the routes I finally chose were the best for the circumstance. It was a fantastic experience. Kilpacker basin is gorgeous, and Navajo basin ain't bad either. Also took the short trip to see Navajo falls, which is incredible. Probably one of the best waterfalls areas I'd seen in Colorado. Do not take ice axe or micro spikes unless you want to carry an extra 3.5 lbs in your pack. Camping at Navajo Lake and doing all 3 peaks as a camping trip is tough, because not all the safest routes are in the basin. This basin is also considerably colder than any location I've been to in Colorado this summer, even with a blue bird sky day. 

Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 8/22/2023, By: Raccoon40
Info: There was still quite a bit of snow. Would recommend ice axe and crampons. Our group did not have this gear, we made it up loose steep rocks along the side of the snow but I would not recommend that. If you're looking for the easiest route with summer conditions, south slopes from kilpacker sound like the way to go. 

Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 8/13/2023, By: IsaacD
Info: Route is snow-free all the way up. The "V" is still there and holding snow. I'd recommend waiting for the sunrise before attempting the buttress to help with route finding. There's quite a bit of loose rock that appears to be solid, but overall, great route and tons of fun. 

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 7/26/2023, By: Logan5280
Info: Did the traverse via the Kilpacker side of each peak on 7/25. There are quite of few relatively simple snowfields leading up to the El Diente turnoff. Above the turnoff, there's a huge snowfield that can be mostly avoided, but you have to go quite a bit east of the route to go around it. We opted to climb the snowfield, which was terrifying with just spikes and no axe early in the morning. Near the summit, there's another short snowfield that wasn't too difficult, but very high consequence. The traverse is essentially dry, except for a few tiny snowfields. The southwest slopes of Wilson are in good condition. The upper gully is dry, and the low angle snowfields on the apron made for good glissading and plunge stepping. The north side looked quite snowy still. Overall, excellent, long day in the mountains. 

Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 7/26/2023, By: summit co kc
Info: The North Buttress is not completely dry. There is still a small snowfield just before the final pitch, which is unavoidable, and falls away in both directions. A slip at this point would almost certainly be fatal. Ice axe and crampons I think would be the best way to really feel secure there. Unfortunately we descended N buttress after not finding a secure way to bypass the snowfields. This is a really cool route other than that, with great rock overall and spectacular scenery. The trail stabilization work through the lower talus fields is really beautifully done and much appreciated. 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 7/22/2023, By: Scott Conro
Info: Hope some others that went this way today will do a proper report. Did not climb. All four parties we talked to on our pack into Kilpacker said ice axe is necessary for safe climbing. We did Mt. Wilson only, and based on that snow, I agree with the consensus. 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 7/24/2023, By: wanderingsteve
Info: I used crampons and an ice axe on a large, firm snowfield that began around 12,400, a little before the turnoff. I was able to remain on snow until just above 13,000. You could avoid much of this snow if you prefer, but you'll have to at least traverse a few snowfields, and if you're out there shortly after sunrise, the snow is hard. I'd recommend some kind of traction. Above 13,000, the route is basically dry and most snow is easily avoidable. Route finding is a little challenging, and the route alternates about solid rock and horribly loose stuff. 

Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 7/18/2023, By: ChiBearsFan
Info: Some snow fields to cross on the way in from Rock of Ages, in the morning I opted for traction on the ones I couldnt see across with my head lamp. Some unproblematic snow in the upper Navajo basin. After the turn off from the Navaho trail, I didn't see any snow until the v which is not problematic. Above that, where Im guessing the short narrow ridge section above the v has snow fields on both sides of the buttress connecting forming a cone shape. I was on the snow around 8-9. It was in the shade but had been in the early morning sun. The snow had a weak unsupported crust that was a bit slick. I used my axe to cut through that so I could get so some low to mid shin consolidated snow. The snow was quite steep, crampons and ice axe absolutely needed. 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 7/9/2023, By: backcountrybrodes
Info: Did all three Wilsons and logged 18.89 miles, 8,130ft and 14h 56m on Strava. I started at 7am and ended at 10pm with perfect weather the whole day. Snow fields way up high got a little sketchy but nothing my ice axe couldn't handle. Crampons were nice for going down the north side of Mt. Wilson. Snow below 12.5k is consolidated and very nice, not so much with the high snow. El Diente and Mt. Wilson still have some snow, Wilson Pk. is dry all the way up. If you're into type 3 fun then this is the hike for you! Go get it and watch the weather carefully! 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 7/5/2023, By: Chrisfish25
Info: Went up south slopes from Killpacker. No snow until up in the basin about 4.5 miles in. Several big patches up snow going up to the ridge. You can get onto rock about half way up if you want to avoid the snow, just loose class 3. There was a couple patches below the Organ Pipes (nothing like winter thank god) Once up on the ridge in the notch before the summit we went ridge proper to the summit instead of wrapping around the north face. A couple of steep snow patches we would rather not deal with and ridge proper is fun. We didnt traverse to Wilson, long story. But I went across the Organ Pipes and up and over the low class 5 Gendarme to scout the sections for record attempt soon. Organ Pipes are fast, I think traversing below the Gendarme face is probably faster than up and over it. Below the gendarme (lower traverse than ridge proper) are a couple of snow patches still. From what I could see past that, the rest of the traverse is dry. Wilson Peak looked completely dry in the distance. Good day! 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 6/25/2023, By: Brandon0135
Info: Snow starts becoming a factor about 4.5 miles in. I brought snow shoes but didn't ever put them on. On the way down there was some post holing. Ice axe and crampons are an absolute necessity. The traverse along the ridge was pretty sketcy with steep snow slopes over cliffs. After the cross over is where it got really bad. I highly recomend climbing up on the true ridge shortly after the cross over. It's technically off route but was way safer and faster than traversing the snow walls. 

Route: Luttrell Line
Posted On: 5/10/2023, By: Kya Cav
Info: El Diente Luttrell Line: 5/9/23. Drivable to about 9,700 feet then started skinning about 1/4 mile further. Will likely be melted out up to 10,000 ft road intersection within a week. Skied pow off the summit around 9:45 and crossed the Fox soon after. Perfect timing for that upper section. Bottom half of the NW couloir was still very frozen. Would have take a few more hours to soften up. Great coverage throughout the route. 

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2/22/2023, By: Chrisfish25
Info: I went in from rock of ages. Up the Mt Wilson north slopes. The final scramble to the summit wasn't horrible. Although there was a good bit of snow. From there I traversed over to El Diente. The traverse had a ton of snow & was a lot of work to get across. It took me 4.5 hours. Staying ridge proper the entire way would've been a better solution to how much work I put in. I carried a 30 m rope in case I needed to rappel. I didn't. But had I stayed ridge proper I would've. I skied the north face of el Diente down & back over rock of ages & out. Great day up high. 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 10/6/2022, By: Sail3733
Info: Very muddy and wet below 11k. Bring change of socks/boots bc a fair amount of snow above 11k and toes can freeze. freeze-thaw conditions bw the high & low temps. After 11.5k post-holing up to the trail junction at 12.6k b/w Mt. Wilson and ED. South side of ED appeared pretty clear above 13k but I turned back. Posts from a few weeks ago say the snow and ice on the North side of the ridge route are "bullet proof" and need crampons and ax. 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 9/25/2022, By: ryansunshine20
Info: Clear of snow until going over the the north side where we ran into bulletproof snow/ice that turned us around. Couldn't get any purchase with our spikes and we knew clouds were rolling in around 1 so decided to not wait and see if it would soften up any. I think crampons would have worked to cross that section.