Wetterhorn Peak

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/3/2020, By: Christensenje
Info: It goes! Traction could be used but not necessary.

Also went for the traverse to Matterhorn. Needed ice axe for the initial down climb but then rest of snow on ridge was solid. Started the traverse at 7:30. Snow on traverse only for first half. Last half dry.

I'd think all snow would be gone in 2 weeks. Just be aware that the rock on the traverse is not stable. Test every hold, especially on last half. 

Route: East Face
Posted On: 5/24/2020, By: Skinuppowdowner
Info: Skied East Face. Choke is becoming very thin. Drove all the way to Matterhorn TH. You can skin to the base of the East face from about half way up the trail, had to hike the first part. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 3/6/2020, By: supranihilest
Info: There's an additional six miles each way from the gate on Henson Creek Road to the start of Matterhorn Creek Road. Snow on the road is somewhat OK but has potential to posthole without flotation. Past the four mile mark or so flotation is basically required. The snowmobile tracks are old and unsupportive. Snow on the Matterhorn Creek Road itself is awful. Wet, heavy, gloms to everything, the trench is a disaster of postholes and kaddywompus, slanted snowshoe tracks. It improves slightly beyond treeline but not by much and CaptainSuburbia and I opted to take different ascent and descent routes from the saddle because of the poor quality snow. Snow on the upper ridge is good though and you'll want crampons for it - sticking to the ridge proper is easiest but if you cross any of the numerous gullies they're steep and full of steep snow, generally good, consolidated stuff. The crux pitch is mostly dry. Get a VERY early start to take the most advantage of early morning frozen snow. Flotation, crampons, and an ice axe are all mandatory in current conditions. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 3/1/2020, By: Will_E
Info: Same conditions as illusion7il, just some additional pics. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2/29/2020, By: illusion7il
Info: Normal road closure in place just past the Nellie creek TH. There was an old snowmobile track to the Matterhorn TH road. The trenching became deep just 2 miles up the road. Lots of surface cracking in the suspect area around 11.5K breaking treeline. Snow was supportive above treeline. The crux pitch was mostly dry. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2/3/2020, By: JtheChemE
Info: Road only plowed to mile marker 5, previous CR incorrectly states 6. Strong snowmobile tracks on the road to matterhorn TH will remain even after this storm. After Matterhorn TH, not much will remain of the trench I set after this 2/3 storm. Take care on the steeps to break treeline, odd windloading present prior to the 2/3 system. Treeline to 13.2k a mix of windblown and deep plowing. The scrambling on the ridgeline was more difficult than expected, deep powder over breakable crust in the bypasses kept me ridge proper until the ramp. Ramp was mostly clear, but scramble after ramp a surprising mix of snow and ice given the aspect. ~20.5 miles as it stands right now. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 1/21/2020, By: pchernik
Info: Parked about 5-6 miles from Lake City, by Owl Gulch - road was good conditions, recommend snow tires.
Good amount of snow till about 0.5 mile from the summit, past that flotation would be useful in places, but not absolutely necessary. We skinned up till about 1 mile from the summit, and decided that taking skis higher is not worth it. Wouldn't recommend doing the scramble in ski boots (we changed into mountaineering boots). Brought crampons but didn't use them. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/12/2019, By: jchapell
Info: Summer conditions (though chilly) everywhere that counts. No frost/snow/ice on any class 3 spots. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/30/2019, By: tcphoto87
Info: Perfect day for it! Started at the upper trailhead around 530 and got back to the car at 12:30. Summer conditions on the trail the whole way. This is another one the pics look worse and it was way easier than it looks that was a nice surprise. It was a tad windy but not terrible. The final pitch wasn't as bad as I thought either. Hardest part of the hike was probably just route finding past the yellow dirt area but even then we found the way up pretty easily. #38 for me. Go get it while it's dry! 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/26/2019, By: RWSchaffer
Info: Late summer conditions. There are a few small stream crossings that are icy in the early morning; otherwise the route is dry from trailhead to summit. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/3/2019, By: Lucas Pattie
Info: Great day to climb Wetterhorn today - still, sunny, warm. I guess the Labor Day crowd is largely gone. I saw like 4 people the entire route. Love the San Juans.

-Lucas 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/23/2019, By: Gene L
Info: Made it to within a mile of the Matterhorn Creek trailhead in my friend's RAV4 before deciding to park on the side of the road. Probably could have made it all the way up, but it was real bumpy and we decided to walk.

The standard trail up to Wetterhorn is in great shape with just a few patches of snow that were easily traversed without any special gear. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/13/2019, By: jahselassie
Info: Not much changed from the 8th. Still two snowfields, first is larger than the second. Did them both in trail runners but had equipment in case. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/8/2019, By: larixpjm
Info: Still two patches of snow, one larger below the saddle and smaller at the SW ridge. No traction is needed to pass them. Besides, summer conditions. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/7/2019, By: THuffman
Info: I was on the CFI crew over the weekend and we did get the avalanche debris cleared, although there is still considerable debris at the camping area just below the trailhead. There is room for a few tents, but it's tight.