Log In 

Wetterhorn Peak

Condition Updates  
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/15/2024, By: FlipFlap55
Info: The standard route up Wetterhorn has a handful of small snow crossings, probably 100 steps total. There was some snow around the class 3 sections, but nothing that made me go off route or feel uncomfortable. After summiting the traverse over to Uncompahgre had numerous snow crossings ranging from supportive to slushy depending on the aspect. Id recommend waiting a week or two for the valley to melt out more for a better experience with less wet shoes, but it can be done. It was smooth sailing from the Uncompahgre saddle to the summit with two small snow crossings. I had spikes, but didn't put them on all day. 
3
4
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/16/2024, By: NOJ
Info: Climbed standard route 7/15. Route is certain early summer conditions. Many 100-200 feet length snowfields that can be easy to porthole in as temperatures rise. Otherwise lots of wet snowmelt rolling down mountain. No special gear needed other than gators to keep socks dry. Beautiful conditions out there! 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/2/2024, By: Rg15
Info: Started at 4:40 AM from the Matterhorn Creek junction. There is intermittent snow starting with occasional drifts just above the upper TH, gradually becoming more continuous up to the saddle. I postholed quite a bit until I hit the refreeze around 12000. Past the saddle, the ridge is initially dry, though the gullies below the prow are holding a lot of snow and crampons/ice axe are still mandatory. Aside from a couple small patches of ice that are entirely avoidable, the summit pitch is completely dry. Summited around 7:30. Tempted by the nearly dry south ridge of Matterhorn, I cut across the basin around 12500 to head up that way. Once on the ridge, I only had to cross one patch of snow at the base of the summit block. Summited Matterhorn at 9:50. Postholed below 12000 as expected but nothing too heinous. Got back to my car at 11:35. Still gonna be quite a while until full summer conditions, but with an early start and the right gear, Wetterhorn is totally doable at the moment. For all you skiers, it looks like the East Face still has great coverage. 
2
Route: East Face
Posted On: 5/29/2024, By: slawrence2011
Info: Didn't summit. Made it to within 1/4 mile of the Matterhorn creek junction the night before in my civic, and got shut down by a 6 inch creek crossing. I turned around at that point in a 10 point turn, but it was very narrow, and one side of the road dropped off, so I backed into a rock and broke my muffler off. I was then able to get most of my vehicle out of the road and parked there for a couple days. Started at 4:30 AM, and looks like a better vehicle could make it to the junction. There are a couple of snow crossings before the TH, but they now have tire tracks through them. That Matterhorn creek road, though some guides say high clearance 4WD is fine when dry, not sure I want to take my civic up there. Built out the posthole highway since snow was very inconsistent until the first trail junction where the guides describe making a rising traverse up the West side of the drainage from 11 to 11,5. I stupidly missed the key switchback where it starts going toward the basin instead of away, and wasted a ton of time making huge postholes in the forest, and eventually realizing I must have lost the trail, and switchbacking on steep grass way higher than I would have had to go. Then had to drop back down and eventually got to the start of the basin, but wasted at least 30-60 minutes. Basin was very supportive for booting around 7-8, was able to follow low angle snow all the way to the base of E face, went up in decent but often punchy crampon conditions, especially up high, as the sun started getting more continuous, and I probably should have bailed because there were moments I was sinking down to the waist. But I moved quickly and traversed to other snow and managed to make it to the Keyhole at 11. Sadly couldn't summit because I was already on borrowed time. But I did see that the summit scramble was totally dry. Skied down on amazing conditions that were probably about an hour too prime, thank God I didn't start anything. Then skied all the way out to the forest, and found the road I should have taken, which was dry up to 11,5. Hiked all the way out. 
2
3
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 3/10/2024, By: artemavovk
Info: Road has a couple of bare spots a couple of miles in. Otherwise snowmobile packed snow all the way to second 4WD sign. Snow was very icy and solid in the morning all the way to the ridge, heard a few thumps on steeper slopes. By the time I got to the ridge, the snow started baking. Used crampons, ice axe is helpful sometimes, but snow got way too soft quickly. All gullies have a good amount of snow, but you can get to the rock beneath, maybe knee deep. Gully just before the prow had good ice under the snow on the way up. Slab is snow covered and so is the last gully ascent. Had to take it really slow and trust the crampons a lot. Descent ski around 1pm was fantastic all the way down to first 4WD sign. I took safe routes, the face looked too melty. It got really hot above and below treeline so everything above the ridge might melt out by the end of season. 
19
7
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/14/2023, By: Strugglr
Info: Summited Wetterhorn and Matterhorn in the fresh snow. Some challenging trail finding on the lower boulder fields due to the snow. The summit block of Wetterhorn was slippery but not too bad. Got to the Wetterhorn summit in two hours and 20 mins at a fast but comfortable pace. Stunning views all day. Matterhorn is a boring steep grass climb but probably the best mountain for views that I have ever been on. 
3
Route: Uncompahgre Wetterhorn Combo
Posted On: 10/7/2023, By: Joey_parm
Info: Started with Uncompahgre from Matterhorn Creek TH. Uncompahgre: Intermittent patches of snow starting a few miles from the start to the summit which are small, melting fast, and of no major concern. Wetterhorn: Similar non-issue snow patches ascending the rocks of the east slopes with some deeper snow as you get closer to the ridge. After that, no snow all the way to the summit. 16.5 miles, 7,747' vert per my InReach. Did not use spikes at any time. Go get'em before next snowfall. 
4
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/7/2023, By: Kimberlyann00
Info: The only reason I won't say it is basically summer conditions are the colors of the aspens. . . There was some snow below the saddle, that seemed to be melting quickly assuming weather conditions hold. We didn't even bother with spikes or gators. The route above the saddle was clear and dry and everything below ~12,500 was dry. We honestly couldn't have had a better day for it - the fall colors were stunning against the other snowcapped peaks in the valley, virtually no wind, and hardly a cloud in the sky. 
1
1
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/24/2023, By: mindfolded
Info: Very windy, but no snow on the path to the summit. I didn't use any, but the water flowing around 12,500' on the crossover to the Uncompagre trail looks much cleaner than everything else. The rest of the streams that you pass look like they've been used to dye eggs. 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/18/2023, By: bdloftin77
Info: Dry!! Most peaks south of Henson Creek appeared to have a decent amount of snow, notably Redcloud and Sunshine. 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/19/2023, By: Piotr
Info: Dry on 9/17, might have changed with incoming weather. 
3
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/28/2023, By: Logan5280
Info: Route is totally in summer condition. The rock quality is excellent the whole time 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/28/2023, By: kritifer15
Info: Was nervous about this one (rock not being solid etc.) but all the info I was hearing from other hikers was totally correct. Definitely solid rock on the exposed ladder section and final pitch to the summit. I definitely concur with the takes on the flies. They were worst on the summit and 1 mile from the trailhead on return. 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/27/2023, By: tlgold1990
Info: One snow patch that can be avoided. Otherwise summer conditions. Flies are still an issue. Wildflowers are amazing! 
2
Route: Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn Combo
Posted On: 7/20/2023, By: Thighs
Info: Grabbed both Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn in a day. Started at 3:30 and made it back around 1:30. Pretty slow and it made for a long day but I definitely recommend doing Uncompahgre first and then grabbing Wetterhorn. A few intermittent snow patches but no need for traction or an axe at any point. Flies are awful though so be careful about the annoyance. 
1 6
Route: West Cimmaron Approach
Posted On: 7/11/2023, By: Wentzl
Info: If you are interested in accessing Wetterhorn from the north via Owl Creek Pass and the West fork of the Cimmaron, this report is to show you that there is still some snow going up and over Coxcomb Pass to get into Wetterhorn Basin that must be crossed. I went over in trail runners and without an ice tool, but I got a late start and the snow was soft enough by 11:30 a.m. to get over it. But I think it would be enough to give some people pause, especially if early in the day. I went up the steeper, shorter section on the right of the photo, came down the longer, easier section on the left. At 5:30 p.m. and I could heel step even in trail runners without heels! 
2 3
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/10/2023, By: Split_the_FR
Info: Sumitted Wetterhorn, Uncompahgre, and Matterhorn on 7/8. Parked at Matterhorn Creek 2WD trailhead, left my car at 4:05am. The route is essentially summer conditions all the way through. There are very few snow crossings throughout, and those that exist are very short. From the car to the summit of Wetterhorn took 2 hours. The final sumitt push was tons of fun (easy class 3) and completely dry. After enjoying the sunrise, I trecked over to Uncompahgre and decided last minute to go up Matterhorn on the way back to Matterhorn Creek TH. Matterhorn was a blast as well - I reccomend it to anyone doing either of these peaks. I'd love to come back for the Wetterhorn/Matterhorn traverse one day. Back at the car at about 12:15pm. There is no traction needed on this route at this point. 
1
6 4
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/5/2023, By: Tcash
Info: A few snow crossings on the way up, but nothing sketchy enough to need microspikes, either the icy morning or for the slushy descent. Definitely recommend a helmet if you got it since their are so many rocks/holds that are primed for falling along the route. It's a shorter hike, but plenty of opportunity to refill on water if you fancy, would recommend it if you're going to snag Uncompahgre in the same go. 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/2/2023, By: infinitealpine
Info: Basically summer conditions. Only snowfield to cross was below the saddle and it didn't require any traction. Some of the trail is wet and muddy so it was nice to have waterproof boots. Above the saddle is 100% snow free. Very easy class 3. 
3
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/27/2023, By: backcountrybrodes
Info: Road to 4WD trailhead is completely clear. You can make it up if you have a 4x4 or a high clearance SUV and determination. Some small snow fields above tree line, but no snow on any of the class 3 sections except for the large notch about 150ft down from the summit (easily navigable). I would suggest bringing an ice axe for glissading off the ridge down low - don't try to go down the east face, very unstable snow. Have fun and go get it! 

Return to the main Peak Conditions page