Wetterhorn Peak

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/2/2026, By: emulhern
Info: **Went in the day the Gold Mtn Fire started, about 72 hours before it really blew up

The Wetterhorn Basin Trailhead likely requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle to access--there's kind of a wide spot where vehicles can spread out about 1.3 miles short of the main trailhead. The trail is good all the way up to a scree field just short of the pass east of Coxcomb. At this point it gets a bit difficult to follow, although there are some cairns (hard to see in the scree tho)

Beyond this pass and into Wetterhorn Basin, the trail becomes a bit faint in spots. There are intermittent posts and cairns marking the route. Remains this way all the way through the upper end of the basin to the pass SW of Wetterhorn peak. I would NOT recommend doing this piece in the dark. You're already less than 3 miles from the summit. Even with the trail very faint in spots, the direction you need to go is obvious.

Trail remains faint til the point where you join the official SE ridge route, but gets a bit better once you make a left up the yellow rocks. There are decent cairns most of the way, but you do have to look for them. Just above 13,600 around the rock rib described in the route description, I somehow managed to cross over to the East side of the ridge. Exposure was really nasty over there, but I was able to cross back over (west) and regain the route a bit below the prow. Gets really fun once you pass the prow. Exposure is defintely high, but the rock was super solid, especially if you take the catwalk around to the left just below the summit. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/28/2026, By: Watlas
Info: Beautiful day, but windy as all f*ck when we got to the ridge and all the way to the summit, where it was abruptly calm. Probably 70-80 mph gusts, easily will knock you over - so bring wind gear. No snow anywhere, full summer conditions.

The 4WD road is gnarly. Either have very high clearance or good experience driving and precisely picking lines over big rocks. We did see an Outback at the top which proves it can be done... but we were shocked, if that gives you any idea. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/14/2026, By: lukedog
Info: Our group climbed Wetterhorn on Friday, June 12 and Uncompahgre on Saturday, June 13. Essentially summer conditions throughout. A handful of inconsequential snowfields in the basin between peaks but zero need for any traction or flotation on the peaks or between them. Plentiful water. Beautiful conditions across the board.

June 12-13 Matterhorn Creek TH road was dry and without major obstacles but a little rougher than I expected. Still fine for an Outback Wilderness to the AWD TH. I wouldn't even consider taking my car to the 4WD TH - very rough past the AWD TH. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/6/2026, By: katarinaa452
Info: Summer conditions overall. The route is essentially dry from the trailhead to the summit. A few very small snow patches remain along the approach, but all can be easily avoided if desired.

There is no snow on the ridge, the Class 3 scrambling sections, or the final pitch to the summit. Rock was dry and conditions were excellent for climbing.

Few small creek crossings, nothing too deep. Only one section where we walked a bit further down to avoid stepping in the running water. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/2/2026, By: MNHikerguy
Info: Great conditions for me this weekend! Road up to TH is clear of snow. Basically the entire route is summer conditions besides a few snowfields. Mo traction needed, but I was glad for my relatively early start to avoid postholing. Started at 6am from upper TH, summit at 8am, back down to the truck by 930am.

Route is pretty straightforward, and the class 3 section wasn’t bad at all. I was lucky to have awesome conditions on the summit, so hung out there for a bit before descending. Epic views of the San Juan’s from the top of Wetterhorn! Ran most of the descent after the scramble section.

The San Juan’s are the best! 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 5/24/2026, By: Josh0651
Info: The road to the 4wd TH is clear of all snow but still pretty rough. 4wd and decent clearance necessary. Still lots of snow patches on trail with deep postholes from late descents. I was off the mountain at 11am and never postholed. The crux and all class 3 spots are clear of snow and ice! 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 5/4/2026, By: Stormline24
Info: Wetterhorn conditions update:

Summited on Sunday May 3, 2026.

The road to the TH is completely free of snow at this point. However, there is a large aspen tree that has fallen across the road approximately 1.9 miles from the 4WD TH ( so it added nearly 4 miles to my trip). If you want to get all the way to the TH bring a saw or chainsaw this week.
It has snowed this week and the valley is 70% free of snow. The two tiers/levels above the valley had enough snow to cover the trail in 85-90% of its area. Easy to get off trail here right now.

There was 6-8" of snow on the summit and I didn't see another person all day.

Traction would be advised for some. I took crampons but didn't use them . I used my axe to descend the summit block in case of a fall ( it would be a long slide in a couple areas). 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 4/21/2026, By: wmagnuson7
Info: Summitted via SE ridge. Almost summer conditions, but not quite. The section leading up to the Prow is still holding a fair amount of snow, so bring an ice axe, crampons (and helmet, of course). Minimal post-holing, so would leave snowshoes at home but bring gaiters.

Gorgeous hike and incredible trail (kudos to CFI!) my new favorite 14’er! Enjoy! 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 3/19/2026, By: Splitboard14ers
Info: Winter gate closure 6.7 miles from Matterhorn Creek Trailhead. No snow to Capitol City. No snow first 1.5 miles up Matterhorn Creek Trailhead road. Some snow from then on to trailhead. High wind had kept snow firm, and I walked across it without switching to skins. From trailhead on, I switched to skins and approached into the basin.

I reached the South East ridge and transitioned to boots then climbed the ridge to Summit. I descended about 80 feet to snowline below the Summit tower and transitioned to ride. I strapped in and rode the East face. Firm snow. A lot of rock features to avoid. Ride was poor due to high wind keeping snow incredibly firm and refrozen.

Rode across basin and through Matterhorn Cutoff back to trailhead. Transitioned to hike out 6.7 miles back from trailhead.

20.15 miles round trip.
11 hours 16 minutes round trip.
5066' vert. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 1/21/2026, By: jacolc
Info: Climbed Wetterhorn and Matterhorn yesterday. Do not have time now for more. Maybe somebody use my track tomorrow.
First day approach 7.7mile 2.5k' 4h21' and bivi at tree line.
Booth summits from camp: 5.4mile 3.3k' 7.5h
Snowshoe and crampons
For more look at LoJ 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 11/2/2025, By: Will_E
Info: Nearly summer conditions on Wetterhorn this weekend. I did a loop of 13,207', 13,313', Wetterhorn and Broken Hill. Beautiful day. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/20/2025, By: stirfry
Info: Wetterhorn Peak and Uncompahgre peak from the Wetterhorn Creek TH on 10/19/25.
I did Uncompahgre first then hiked back to Wetterhorn. Someone posted a good report for the same conditions I experienced on Uncompahgre.

Hiking to/from Uncompahgre from Wetterhorn Peak, there was around 1 mile of snow to cross on the Ridge Stock Driveway Trail #233. The majority of the snow started south east of Matterhorn Peak and ended just before regaining elevation to meet with the standard route for Uncompahgre peak. Most of it was 4-6" deep.

Toward Wetterhorn Peak: The approach was snow and mud free until the boulder field starting around 12,350'. Through the boulder field there was some snow maybe 2-4" deep along with some mud later in the day. There was a 6-10" deep snow field to cross between around 12,800-13,100 ending just before the southeast ridge/yellow dirt section. After reaching the southeast ridge and switching to class 2 and 3 terrain, the route was dry.

Looking from each peak, you could see the impressive snow coverage on the San Juans with more snow incoming.

Finished the day with 17.71 miles and 7,688' of gain according to my apple watch, or 6,615' of gain according to Strava. Strava might be more accurate...but 7,688 is cooler than 6615... 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/9/2025, By: goddibhk
Info: Climbed Wetterhorn last evening and into the night. Was hesitant to posting this cause most of this will probably be outdated rather quick but decided someone might find it useful. The entire route is snow free aside from some small and inconsequential patches right before gaining the ridge. Uncompahgre looked pretty dry as well. Pretty much anything to the south has quite a bit more snow though. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/4/2025, By: jjasks
Info: Still clear of snow as of Friday morning. Windy at the ridge to the top, but still a great climb overall. 

Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/29/2025, By: taylorharris50
Info: Made it to the angled slab at 13,900 (pic 21). The slab was iced over. Unable to assess the final pitch.