Pyramid Peak

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/8/2024, By: mcalasci
Info: Leave the micro spikes and ice axe at home. You can avoid the amphitheater snow by going on the rocks to the right or left. Very chill route 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/1/2024, By: Buckie06
Info: Some snow in the amphitheater basin as you cross over to gain the ridge. I think most of the snow on the uphill to the ridge could be avoided. Although crampon-ing up the snow felt quicker than dealing with the loose trail. Once on the ridge we crossed maybe 3-4 small snow patches to the summit. We were happy with crampons and ice axe, you might be fine with microspikes and axe depending on your skill level. We did not wear crampons for the downhill. The standard route was easy enough to follow via carins. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/25/2024, By: grompice
Info: Started at 5:10 AM from the Maroon Creek TH. Was able to get very close to the summit of Pyramid, but had to turn around at about 13,750. There is a variety of snow fields on the trail. The first set is at the beginning, where you are hiking up to the entrance of the amphitheater section. In the steep trees this definitely slowed me down. In the amphitheater itself there is a large snow section up until you turn to arrive at the start of the ascent to the summit ridge. Going up the ridge, there is snow in the couloirs and this made climbing up with microspikes a bare minimum. I was also very prudent in bringing my ice axe, as I was able to use it for a direct ascent, the snow was slippery here and not solid. Once arriving onto the ridge before the summit, there is a large cornice to cross. I would say an ice axe is absolutely essential here or you will slide a very unpleasant way back down into the amphitheater. After this section was the actual class 4 climbing. A bit past this was a very large snow section that covered the route, there was no way through that did not involve climbing onto the snow itself, along with the exposure on this part. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/15/2024, By: daway8
Info: Trail is mostly dry up to the turnoff for Pyramid. Lots of traffic to Crater Lake but no one seems to be heading to Pyramid right now - only saw occasional faint hints of one old set of tracks. Past the turnoff there were multiple sections with very steep snowfields blocking the trail. Used snowshoes for a while but then switched to boots/spikes/axe (should have left snowshoes at home). The snowfields were steep enough to make for awkward side hilling in places. Amphitheatre starts off dry but soon hit major snowfields. However it was all extremely well consolidated and easily bootable (though I hiked up in the dark and returned early morning following a completely clear night with a low of 34 so your milage may vary). The 1,000ft slope from the Amphitheatre to the ridge is drying out fast but there are a few couloirs that are almost continuous all the way up. Approached with caution since the topo showed some sections were upwards of 50 degrees but the snow was extremely firm except right next to the rocks so opted to take a couloir up. Crampons and ice axe were mandatory - there was just enough give in the snow for the crampons to bite in without sinking at all - they barely left tracks in the snow. Was feeling very optimistic about the summit after such solid snow conditions (I was intentionally wanting to try the peak while it still had some snow on it) but upon getting the ridge just above 13k saw a very large cornice filling the saddle below the final 1k climb to the summit. The middle part had previously broken out and left lots of debris in the steep snowfield beneath. Crossing over the partially collapsed cornice was not a viable option so the only way to get to the summit would have been to drop below the enormous chunks still hanging on and hope they didn't break loose as I crossed a very steep snowfield perhaps 20 feet wide. I was about to try my luck with that when I heard a loud crashing sound. Large piles of rock and snow were tumbling off the cliffs just east of Pyramid's summit. I was hoping the snow would stay firm enough to summit early in the morning before it warmed up enough for slides to start happening but this thunderous collapse happened at 7:30am! The route to the summit looked to be about half rock, half snow - just the right combo to have the potential for more collapses like I had just witnessed. Also didn't want to stick around and see how fast the sun could butcher the perfect snow I had just climbed to gain the ridge so ended up bailing just above 13k. On the descent the couloirs and the Amphitheatre both stayed totally solid - got some good glissades in the Amphitheatre. But below the Amphitheatre the snow had already turned to total garbage and those intermittent steep snowfields were a royal pain to deal with - sometimes bootable, sometimes mush, sometimes large voids lurking just below the surface. Not a fun descent for that section. And I confirmed they do indeed make 10 parking passes available 3 days before - that how I grabbed a midnight to midnight parking pass for a Saturday without having previously signed up. 

Route: West Gully
Posted On: 1/2/2024, By: illusion7il
Info: Took advantage of the green light on Pyramid yesterday. Every time I have traveled in the green the snow was always bulletproof and supportive near and above treeline, but the time was different as the snow is more powdery/sugary and not very supportive. Maroon Creek road is nicely groomed. I put in the trench from Maroon Lake to the base of the west gully. I didn't see any signs of even an old track. My track though the willows is not meant to be followed, unless you are looking for the full tour of the them. The first 100 feet in the west gully is full of avy debris. For the next maybe 200 feet the snow is supportive and great for crampons, until I started sinking down to my thighs with every step so I moved left and climbed the rib with a mix of snow and unpleasant loose rock. Every time I would step in the snow I would just sink to the bottom, so I tried to put together as many rock sections as could. There was a light dusting of snow from the day prior which made the crux head wall a little sketchy. With stable conditions I just cut right across the bowl on steep snow that would swallow me up at times to reach the JP sneak. For me the crux was the JP sneak as it was full of unsupported sugar and snow, so I basically had to clean it out on my way up to find the holds. Maybe I missed it, but I never heard anyone ever mention the best line up to the ridge line. After trying several spots, I felt like I made some tuff exposed moves on a blocky arete like feature which finally got me up there. From the moment I reached the final bowl to the summit took me 1.5 hours which is only a couple hundred feet in gain. I hit the summit under a light snow shower at 3pm when all of the sudden there was a large burst of thunder. Upper mountain temps were mild and comfortable with no wind while everything below was cold. Inversion is a real thing. I'm impressed! This was a very complex and complicated route that will test all of your abilities. With just 1 more peak to go (Maroon) this route pack a punch and wins for most complex winter route. 20 hours 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/17/2023, By: JakeBortClimb
Info: multiple feet of snow up and out of the amphitheater. Doubt it will melt out. Turned around at 13,000. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/24/2023, By: WillRobnett
Info: Traction stayed in the pack. Alpenglow heats up 13k ridge which is nice. A few small spots where snow exists in the climbing route above 13k and didn't seem to be an issue for the half dozen climbers yesterday. North face is hanging on to recent dustings which made for good Fall Colors and great climbing with my buddy Cool Hand Luke. Clear skies ahead this week, go for it! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/19/2023, By: CommanderDawn
Info: A thunderstorm cell blew over Pyramid on Monday night and left 1/2 or so of fresh snow above 12,200. Most of the snow exposed to the sun was gone by noon leaving behind damp soil. A thunderstorm cell came over at 1pm and lightly sleeted on me in the amphitheater but I was too far down to know what impact it may have had at higher elevations. Overall a beautiful windless day before 1pm. A pair of microspikes combined with the snow (or moist soil after the snow melted) made this hike easier than in dry conditions. The only difficulty of the day was a layer of hard to see ice on some of the boulders of the Amphitheater, specifically at 12,000 where you are crossing toward the start of the ascent. I was the only hiker on the mountain today. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/17/2023, By: eric7600
Info: Few inches of snow on north facing sections of the ridge, overall no problem. Spikes might be nice, but not required. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/14/2023, By: tlgold1990
Info: Climbed Pyramid on Sep 13. Summer conditions still. Weather held out and none of the snow the days before stuck. We were the only ones on the peak all day. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/11/2023, By: highpointmike
Info: Snowed ~2 inches overnight. Was a little wet in the morning but doable. Definitely now inching towards snow season. Climbed up the north face a bit and the snow there was not melted and much sketchier than the normal route. Castle/Conundrum looked *a lot* snowier. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/13/2023, By: Jonathan Deffenbaugh
Info: Probably N/A at this point with the new snow in play, however managed to stick to the established route, while enjoying solid rock climbing in the green gully followed by climbing the south ridge proper to the summit. More consistent Class 3-4 climbing compared to the Bells on the final 1,000 ft from the saddle. On the way down ended up descending the south ridge proper followed by descending red gully beside the green the gully as that managed to have more of a solid descent option due to rock stablility, also had cairns on it too. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/6/2023, By: squatchdaddy
Info: Summer climbing conditions. Brought along axe and microspikes to be safe based on previous reports. Axe is no longer needed unless you want to practice glissading through the rock glacier at the base of the amphitheater. Microspikes inspire confidence for that snow patch on the ascent - but you can hike the snow or on the adjacent rock easily enough. The bits of snow remaining along the ridge to the summit have melted off of the route. Happy hiking. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/1/2023, By: mtgoatmike
Info: Amphitheater had a decent amount of snow up to the base of Pyramid. It is avoidable if you'd rather hike on the loose scree, but the snow was a nice option, no traction was needed. The gully up to the saddle (1,000 feet of "fun") was decently marked with random cairns and foot paths. Once up on the saddle, all remaining snow was avoidable. The narrow ledge/gap section is completely dry, there were some wet/muddy spots above the green rock section, but it was nothing to worry about. Lots of loose rocks, a large group ahead of us was very inconsiderate and continually sent rocks raining down on our group, luckily no one was hit. Overall, took our group 9.5hrs roundtrip. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/22/2023, By: sazoic1
Info: Amphitheater has snow but it's avoidable, gulley is very loose - took us much longer than expected to get to the ridge. There is a snow filed at the beginning of the ridge at 13,000 feet. It's somewhat stable but will be impassable very soon. Beyond that the ridge is clear with exception of one tiny snow field that is melting fast. There is running water on gray/green rock but it is avoidable.