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Pyramid Peak

Condition Updates  
Route: West Gully
Posted On: 1/2/2024, By: illusion7il
Info: Took advantage of the green light on Pyramid yesterday. Every time I have traveled in the green the snow was always bulletproof and supportive near and above treeline, but the time was different as the snow is more powdery/sugary and not very supportive. Maroon Creek road is nicely groomed. I put in the trench from Maroon Lake to the base of the west gully. I didn't see any signs of even an old track. My track though the willows is not meant to be followed, unless you are looking for the full tour of the them. The first 100 feet in the west gully is full of avy debris. For the next maybe 200 feet the snow is supportive and great for crampons, until I started sinking down to my thighs with every step so I moved left and climbed the rib with a mix of snow and unpleasant loose rock. Every time I would step in the snow I would just sink to the bottom, so I tried to put together as many rock sections as could. There was a light dusting of snow from the day prior which made the crux head wall a little sketchy. With stable conditions I just cut right across the bowl on steep snow that would swallow me up at times to reach the JP sneak. For me the crux was the JP sneak as it was full of unsupported sugar and snow, so I basically had to clean it out on my way up to find the holds. Maybe I missed it, but I never heard anyone ever mention the best line up to the ridge line. After trying several spots, I felt like I made some tuff exposed moves on a blocky arete like feature which finally got me up there. From the moment I reached the final bowl to the summit took me 1.5 hours which is only a couple hundred feet in gain. I hit the summit under a light snow shower at 3pm when all of the sudden there was a large burst of thunder. Upper mountain temps were mild and comfortable with no wind while everything below was cold. Inversion is a real thing. I'm impressed! This was a very complex and complicated route that will test all of your abilities. With just 1 more peak to go (Maroon) this route pack a punch and wins for most complex winter route. 20 hours 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/17/2023, By: JakeBortClimb
Info: multiple feet of snow up and out of the amphitheater. Doubt it will melt out. Turned around at 13,000. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/24/2023, By: WillRobnett
Info: Traction stayed in the pack. Alpenglow heats up 13k ridge which is nice. A few small spots where snow exists in the climbing route above 13k and didn't seem to be an issue for the half dozen climbers yesterday. North face is hanging on to recent dustings which made for good Fall Colors and great climbing with my buddy Cool Hand Luke. Clear skies ahead this week, go for it! 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/19/2023, By: CommanderDawn
Info: A thunderstorm cell blew over Pyramid on Monday night and left 1/2 or so of fresh snow above 12,200. Most of the snow exposed to the sun was gone by noon leaving behind damp soil. A thunderstorm cell came over at 1pm and lightly sleeted on me in the amphitheater but I was too far down to know what impact it may have had at higher elevations. Overall a beautiful windless day before 1pm. A pair of microspikes combined with the snow (or moist soil after the snow melted) made this hike easier than in dry conditions. The only difficulty of the day was a layer of hard to see ice on some of the boulders of the Amphitheater, specifically at 12,000 where you are crossing toward the start of the ascent. I was the only hiker on the mountain today. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/17/2023, By: eric7600
Info: Few inches of snow on north facing sections of the ridge, overall no problem. Spikes might be nice, but not required. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/14/2023, By: tlgold1990
Info: Climbed Pyramid on Sep 13. Summer conditions still. Weather held out and none of the snow the days before stuck. We were the only ones on the peak all day. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/11/2023, By: highpointmike
Info: Snowed ~2 inches overnight. Was a little wet in the morning but doable. Definitely now inching towards snow season. Climbed up the north face a bit and the snow there was not melted and much sketchier than the normal route. Castle/Conundrum looked *a lot* snowier. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/13/2023, By: Jonathan Deffenbaugh
Info: Probably N/A at this point with the new snow in play, however managed to stick to the established route, while enjoying solid rock climbing in the green gully followed by climbing the south ridge proper to the summit. More consistent Class 3-4 climbing compared to the Bells on the final 1,000 ft from the saddle. On the way down ended up descending the south ridge proper followed by descending red gully beside the green the gully as that managed to have more of a solid descent option due to rock stablility, also had cairns on it too. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/6/2023, By: squatchdaddy
Info: Summer climbing conditions. Brought along axe and microspikes to be safe based on previous reports. Axe is no longer needed unless you want to practice glissading through the rock glacier at the base of the amphitheater. Microspikes inspire confidence for that snow patch on the ascent - but you can hike the snow or on the adjacent rock easily enough. The bits of snow remaining along the ridge to the summit have melted off of the route. Happy hiking. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/1/2023, By: mtgoatmike
Info: Amphitheater had a decent amount of snow up to the base of Pyramid. It is avoidable if you'd rather hike on the loose scree, but the snow was a nice option, no traction was needed. The gully up to the saddle (1,000 feet of "fun") was decently marked with random cairns and foot paths. Once up on the saddle, all remaining snow was avoidable. The narrow ledge/gap section is completely dry, there were some wet/muddy spots above the green rock section, but it was nothing to worry about. Lots of loose rocks, a large group ahead of us was very inconsiderate and continually sent rocks raining down on our group, luckily no one was hit. Overall, took our group 9.5hrs roundtrip. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/22/2023, By: sazoic1
Info: Amphitheater has snow but it's avoidable, gulley is very loose - took us much longer than expected to get to the ridge. There is a snow filed at the beginning of the ridge at 13,000 feet. It's somewhat stable but will be impassable very soon. Beyond that the ridge is clear with exception of one tiny snow field that is melting fast. There is running water on gray/green rock but it is avoidable. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/17/2023, By: nweitzer7
Info: Lots of snow in amphitheater makes the trekking a bit easier than only Boulder hopping. Avoidable snow until the saddle where a cornice persists on the far side of the route, its avoidable but postholes are getting deep. Only 2 small snow crossings on the route above 13, can scramble around both if desired or if a mountain goat detours you with a glare 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/14/2023, By: prspost
Info: Agree with others, spikes and ax needed. Snow can be avoided ascending the ridge going up to the 13,000 foot saddle. Would recommend staying climbers left of the snow field 3/4 of the way up to stay on the trail instead of the choss on climbers right. I've included a picture of the cornice about 200 feet from the saddle up the northeast ridge. The cornice is on the opposite side of the ridge, but if it were to go there is a small chance some snow would come down onto the route. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/13/2023, By: helenemily
Info: Amphitheater still for the most part covered in snow. Doable with crampons or spikes + axe, great glissade down. Above the gully the cornice is still there just not visible when ascending so be careful. Snow got bad fast when sun was up. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/9/2023, By: blonde_dinosaur
Info: Not summer conditions yet, give it a couple more weeks. I would not advise doing pyramid right now unless you have snow travel and self arrest skills. If you do, the route is very doable. There are a few small but steep snow crossings. My group brought spikes (no crampons) and axes and we used both. Id say axes mandatory for the snow crossings. Like others have said, you can get to the northeast ridge without really having to deal with any snow. You may prefer to follow the trail in the amphitheater through the snow instead of having to climb up the loose boulders. The snow in the morning was bulletproof though. Whatever cornice that was on the northeast ridge is now gone. Route finding is tricky, especially since there are still snow slopes on the route, so pay close attention. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/9/2023, By: Jorts
Info: The amphitheater is still fully snow covered. Cut climbers right of the NE ridge route with a snow climb and some glissading. Appeared like the true standard route was 90% snow free. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/4/2023, By: amitchell
Info: Snow is totally avoidable up to the amp. There are tiny patches on the trail you can go around. Snow in the amp is firm all day, even when warm. No snow from the amp to the ridge. From ridge to the summit is burly to say the least. It is a maze of snow patches ridgeline, ledges, and gullies. There is a lot more class 4 climbing than just the green wall. The good thing is that there is always another cairn. We never had to go past one cairn to find the next, which made routefinding easy. 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/27/2023, By: ColoNativeGal
Info: A couple of pics and views from afar in case someone needs it. Block below the summit is still holding snow. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/13/2023, By: bribaker2001
Info: Icy snowfield at steep angle halfway up to the boulder field/amphitheater made trail dangerously slick and near impassible with microspikes and poles. Could wait until later in the day for snow to soften up, yet then there's also higher storm potential. 
Route: Area
Posted On: 5/28/2023, By: WillRobnett
Info: Hiked up an Aspen hill this morning for a good view of Pyramid. Summer colors are starting to come out all over the valley! 
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