Longs Peak

Route: Cables / North Face
Posted On: 11/11/2013, By: robco
Info: Cables route was a fun climb, with some fun ice as well.

Was concerned about the wind on the technical pitch, with NOAA saying: "Windy, with a west wind 27 to 32 mph decreasing to 20 to 25 mph in the afternoon. Winds could gust as high as 49 mph." It was windy in the boulderfield and during the approach, and we were prepared to turn back -- but the technical pitch had almost zero wind.

We did some class 3/4 scrambling to get to the base of the technical pitch.

Around and above the first eyebolt, the face of the rock was mostly covered in water ice. Ended up climbing it as a WI/mixed. Definitely felt like it was the crux in present conditions. (I would personally recommend bringing a hybrid/tool and ice climbing crampons...but depends on your comfort level I suppose.)

Above that, some snow made the climbing easier until the summertime crux. The summer crux was similar to summer condition, but with some patches of ice/snow. To me, this 5.4 move felt much easier than the ice crux near the start of the climb.

From there, it's a fairly straightforward hike to the summit. 

Route: Loft and Keyhole Routes
Posted On: 10/25/2013, By: Michael Underwood
Info: Ascended Loft Route and descended via Keyhole Route. Very nice-looking ice forming near Chasm lake. Several feet of loose snow and substantial verglas are present on the ledges where the Loft route diverges from the Loft Couloir to the climber's left. I climbed 4th class rock to avoid as much of this as possible and would not have relished the descent.

The Loft proper and Keplinger's Couloir were very navigable, but the section just past that, where the route leaves Keplinger's Couloir and heads climber's left to join the Keyhole route near the Homestretch was covered in 2-4 ft of loose snow. I had to engage in uncomfortable uphill postholing and some 3rd or 4th class rock scrambling adjacent to significant exposure.

Because of the steep, loose snow, I decided to forgo the Homestretch and environs, making immediate descent via the Narrows and Trough, which were full of 2-4 ft deep loose snow. The snow was quite steep in the Narrows, requiring effort to wade and step through. In the Trough, lots of shallow snow concealed steep rock, making for tremendous slip potential. Descent was very slow and deliberate.

The Ledges were covered in the same loose and relatively deep snow, though certain sections were bare rock or shallow snow, which was a pleasant change of pace. Descent into the Boulderfield after the Keyhole was a little snowy, but not much of a problem. All in all, the snow is loose enough on both routes at the moment to render crampons superfluous and trekking poles a rather better option than an ax. Solid gaiters were a necessity. 

Route: Chasm Lake area
Posted On: 10/20/2013, By: ulvetano
Info: Hiked into Chasm yesterday. Packed powder w/ occassional 1-3 ft drifts to the Chasm turnoff. Deeper 6-12" powder to the lake with drifts. Heard it's pretty much the same up to Keyhole. Ice looks very nice for you ice guys/gals. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 9/29/2013, By: Tyler Phillips
Info: Made it only to the top of the Loft and was turned back by seriously high winds. The couloir is fairly clear of snow until you reach the top third, where the canyon walls close in and force you to climb in area where there are several inches to several feet of snow and some ice. Again, didn't make it to the exit ramp at the top of the couloir. Crampons and axes are a must. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/31/2013, By: Tony1
Info: It rained heavily on Saturday, 8/31, for a long time high on Longs. I could see waterfalls running off the peak afterward. It's going to be very wet up there on Sunday and probably Monday too. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 8/26/2013, By: TheOtherIndian
Info: Both Loft route and Keyhole route are snow and ice free. There were some slick rocks with running water on Loft route but this can be easily avoided.

Someone left a waste bag right in the middle of the trail (above keplinger). Was too grossed out to pick it up :( 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/21/2013, By: Lville
Info: no issues on Keyhole route. Quite dry. Encountered no ice and what little snow there was was easily avoidable. Little to no rain on 8/19/13 while I was on route. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/21/2013, By: rjennings
Info: Route was clear nearly the entire way up...a bit of residual snow and melt-off, but nothing that you can't avoid. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/14/2013, By: IkeB
Info: Some snow and ice past the keyhole. Ice on the homestretch. A warm day or two and it should melt off. 

Route: North Face
Posted On: 8/10/2013, By: esagas
Info: We went up the North Face (Cables route) and down the Keyhole. Summer conditions all over the mountain. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/24/2013, By: jrs1965
Info: The Keyhole Route is completely free of snow and in great shape. There were just a couple of wet spots from drainage above on the Narrows.

Don’t forget to rent/pickup a bear canister for your food if you plan on doing backcountry camping in RMNP. The park rangers at the TH will not issue a camping permit unless you have one... 

Route: Kieners
Posted On: 7/22/2013, By: pbakwin
Info: Lambs is very icy now. There was a thin strip of snow along the climber's right side, but it will rapidly disappear. It is possible to climb Glacier Rib and then go over the top of the snow/ice and back down to Broadway, this will add a couple hundred feet. The rest of the route is dry and good shape. North Face nearly dry - easy DC. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/18/2013, By: Rambler
Info: Was up there Tuesday 7/16, route was completely snow free. Homestretch was a bit wet/icey but mostly avoidable. Water running pretty well near boulderfield campsites and accessable for getting filled up on the way up and down. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/13/2013, By: JohnnyZ
Info: Homestrech has some ice / snow on the left hand side that can easily be avoided. Was a little wet in places around 6AM but is also possible to avoid.

Rest of trail is snowfree, some wet patches you can get around. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/12/2013, By: capetrekker
Info: The only small amount of snow is half way up the homestretch. It is easily avoidable.