Longs Peak

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 9/3/2026, By: alphaktrk
Info: Got to the keyhole at 7 am, which had strong winds through the keyhole but quieter on the ledges and trough. Only a few spots with wet rocks or ice on the trough and homestretch. Ledges and narrows were clear of water and ice. Summited by 10 am with a few clouds but no precip 

Route: Cables route
Posted On: 9/1/2026, By: ballardwf04
Info: As mentioned in other reports, above 13000 expect continuous ice in the mornings. We did Cables yesterday and encountered ice on the final summit scramble pretty much continuous to the summit. It melted by the time we went down at about 10am. Talking with others the trough and homestretch seemed iced up as well. Spikes might help a little but not a ton. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/30/2026, By: Chase0214
Info: Extremely strong winds ~60mph, with even stronger gusts, at the keyhole this morning. Could not progress as rock was also wet past this spot. We met a member who was in contact with a group who summited that morning via the cables route. We were informed there was ice on the route and the pair had to hunker down in a cave as conditions were too poor to safely descend keyhole. 

Route: Lamb's Slide
Posted On: 8/29/2026, By: englerv
Info: Lamb's Slide is very hard ice from bottom to top. You'd want stiff boots and steel crampons to attempt it, but even then I wouldn't recommend it. It was shedding lots of large rocks when we were there at 7:30 am today. A group before us bailed after a member of their party was hit by a falling rock. We scrambled up the rock on climber's right of Lamb's Slide to access Kiener's and watched dozens of rocks up to microwave sized flying down Lamb's Slide. Probably should avoid until its either much colder or covered in snow.
Broadway and Kiener's was a fun romp, no snow up there. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 8/23/2026, By: 1kCardioInA14kWorld
Info: Our weather was great, but definitely getting those late-season afternoon storms. We were getting light rain and thunder by the time we hit treeline, around 2pm, with storms being seen in the distance as we exited the boulder field probably around 1pm. Parking was rough, we arrived at 2:45am and the lot was already full and we had to park down the road about a quarter mile. All in all good conditions and what you would expect for a Saturday in August on Longs!

Timing:
Started at 3:30am
Chasm Lake at 5:30
Summit at 10:30
Car at 3:30 

Route: Up keyhole ridge down cables
Posted On: 8/19/2026, By: BadWolf
Info: Keyhole ridge had some wet sections from last night's storm. Definitely made it trickier. It will dry off probably by tomorrow, assuming there's not another descent sized storm. Still felt comfortable soloing it.
In classic fashion, Cables had running water. Not much to add. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 8/19/2026, By: linkingxi
Info: Prime summer condition, water till the top of loft couloir 

Route: Loft -> Clark's -> Stepladder -> Cables Descent
Posted On: 7/27/2026, By: notidealbutfine
Info: Snagged a dispersed campsite just outside of Allenspark on Ski Road Saturday afternoon. Spots were mostly filled by 5pm, but we managed to get one not too far from the forest service border without an AWD vehicle. Got up at 10:30PM, left camp at 11:30PM, and departed the Longs TH just after midnight. Parking lot had about a dozen or two cars at midnight; tons of space for us. From the TH, we followed the trail to the Chasm Lake privy, then left the trail moving southeast at ~11,600' towards Meeker's Iron Gates. We blindly climbed through the gates in the dark to the summit ridge and then Mount Meeker - East Peak. Followed the class 3 knife edge to the summit of Mount Meeker proper which was a lot of fun with a bit of spice in the dark with the morning winds. Descended to the Loft and followed Clark's Arrow to the Notch where we finished out the final pitch to the summit on Stepladder (5.5), which felt more like 5.0-5.2 to my partner and I. About 20 people on summit at 7:30AM. From the top, we descended the Cables route (5.4), which was a lot more icy and wet than we were anticipating but it went without ropes just fine for our first onsight descent of the route. In current conditions, I'd say it goes a grade or two above it's rating, maybe 5.5 or 5.6. From the bottom of Cables, we bagged Mount Lady Washington on the way down and made it back to the car just before 1PM. Parking lot was full and absolute insanity when we got back with cars parked on both sides of the road leading up to the TH for about a mile or two. I thought Longs was going to be crazy overhyped, but it did not disappoint in any way possible: to traverse this entire cirque was quite the treat, especially for my first time out here. What an absolute blast of a day! ~14.5 miles / 6,142' gain / 12 hours, 53 minutes 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 7/25/2026, By: ajtrezco
Info: Cables still has water flowing right down the crack. More water above the start. Ascent was a bit sketchy, some pretty committing moves with the lack of dry rock, though there were enough dry holds/patches to make it up w/o pro. I’d call it 5.7-8 in current conditions, not a bad idea to give it some more time. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/15/2026, By: codyli34
Info: Full summer conditions. Lot was full by 3:30 am on a Wednesday. Stream in boulder field had good flow for water. NPS working on trail. a little below the split for Chasm Lake. 

Route: Kieners/Cables
Posted On: 7/12/2026, By: dbolton
Info: As of July 11, Lambs slide was soft and pleasant at the bottom, but fairly firm and somewhat icy starting about 200 feet below the exit to Broadway. With crampons and an ice axe we felt OK, but if it was much firmer (like it will be in a week or so?) I'd want to rope up for it. No snow crossings at all on Broadway or Kieners.

On the descent there's one snow patch to cross on the way to the Cables rap station, but that it's not nearly as bad as Lambs slide. Cables is a waterfall right now. Still need more time for it to come into condition for an ascent of that route. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/7/2026, By: josephsiefers
Info: As others have mentioned, standard route is summer conditions except for a 20 - 30 foot stretch in the upper portion of the trough that covers the regular ascent. We went up the middle in that section and with careful foot placement on the exposed rocks for a 15 foot set of moves it was fine (didn't have spikes). On the way down we stayed far to the right (climber's left) and avoided the patch entirely in the cracks. It was a more difficult way but I thought easier than dealing with the snow/ice. Many people went down through the middle though (including a 9 year old kid with his dad) and were fine as well. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/6/2026, By: mdehenau
Info: Keyhole route is in great shape. Encountered some snow/ice towards the top of the Trough and although not required, would recommend brining some micro-spikes for this section if you have them 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 7/6/2026, By: BigC
Info: Ascended via the Loft, descended via the Keyhole. Began at 5:00AM. Summer conditions on the peak; you'd think it were August. While I shudder to use the S-word, it appears our summit spider friends (Aculepeira carbonarioides) are having a prolific and prosperous year. Stay on trafficked routes to avoid our rather well-fed looking eight-legged friends.

The Loft: Trail to Chasm Lake and the base of the Prow were completely dry. Stunning splays of wildflowers and columbine dotted the slopes in several places. The Loft itself was easily navigable. A small snowfield remains at the top of the couloir. On the ascent, stay to climber's left. You will have zero difficulty. Ledges were fine; damp moss and no snow whatsoever. At the top of Keplinger's Couloir, just before reaching the Homestretch, another easily avoided patch of snow. Little runnels of water flow in the crevices of the Homestretch. They pose no risk and there were no slick spots.

Keyhole: A few places in the Trough were a little slick and wet. A small patch of snow in an inconvenient place is all that remains of the winter. It was completely manageable, no issues or difficulties whatsoever. Simply go around. Everything else was dry and stable. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 7/4/2026, By: GreatGlissader
Info: Descended Meeker via the loft. Almost all snow avoidable, just a small 20 foot section going down on half snow on one side half rock on the other. Did not want or need spikes or axe for this section. This way to avoid the snow is probably not the standard trail, but it goes.