Longs Peak

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 9/19/2012, By: jomagam
Info: Some snow in the Trough. Didn‘t feel like it made conditions much harder, though this was my first time on the route. The exit slab at that top was unclimbable, so we did a class 4 move around it. Everything else was dry. 

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Posted On: 9/15/2012, By: Dave B
Info: Went up today with Keyhole ridge as primary, north face as secondary. Ended up doing the standard keyhole route. Through the binocs it looked like the first and crux pitch of Keyhole Ridge have snow as well as a patch of snow at the base of the crux pitch that might have produced some ice on the slabs. The north face literally glistened in the morning sun as it was almost completely iced over. The slabs to the right of the dihedral looked dry but there was a large patch above the pitch that would be difficult to get around. As we headed up the standard route it looked like there was a team at the base of the dihedral, but they seemed to be there for a while, so not sure if they headed up or not. Standard keyhole was clear of ice and snow for the most part. A little in the trough but completely avoidable. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 9/9/2012, By: ChrisinAZ
Info: In spite of recent precipitation and cold temps, the Loft and Keyhole routes, as well as the routes up "SE Longs" and Meeker, are in generally summer conditions and don‘t require special gear. Several tiny patches of snow above 13k, especially on N-facing aspects, but nothing that can‘t be easily navigated around. The only areas of complication were ascending to the Loft on the 10‘ wide ledge, which had ice flows crossing it in large, but still avoidable patches. Descending the Keyhole midday found parts of the "Ledges" section a bit muddy/wet, but they didn‘t seem to stop people from summitting Longs well before we did, so I imagine any ice there is minimal as well. Absolutely fantastic day--get your climbs in here in the short time you still can! 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 9/11/2012, By: Kitten
Info: Most beautiful weather we‘ve ever had on a 14er, sunny and blue skies all day. Went up the Loft to Longs Pk, then descended same way and summited Meeker. Not many people on the route, even thought it was a Sunday. All dry and clear. That will change in the next few days. 

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Posted On: 9/8/2012, By: forbins_mtn
Info: Went up the Cables Route today. Most beautiful weather I have ever experienced on a 14er. Blue skies without a single cloud all day. However, the Cables Route was littered with patches of ice. We all brought our rock shoes, and should have had boots and/or spikes or crampons. it was doable. But definitely added to the difficulty. We could see the ice from the boulderfield. so you should be able to make a smart game-time decision from there. We were hoping the ice had melted by the time we rapped down. But it was still there and going strong. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 9/1/2012, By: snr25
Info: Hiked up the Loft route, down the gully past Clark‘s Arrow, up the couloir to the Homestretch, then down the standard keyhole route. Started seeing a little snow on the route up to the Loft, but didn‘t have an issue until ascending back up past Clark‘s Arrow. Later in the day, I was told there was a hailstorm the day before, which explained all the icy snow on the couloir and Homestretch. The Homestretch wasn‘t completely snow covered but wet enough that the majority of folks turned around without summitting despite the nice weather. I had my microspikes with me so I summitted without an issue and slid back down on my butt. Once past the Homestretch, the Trough had even more snow, but I was okay with my spikes. Definitely a wet ascend. 

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Posted On: 8/28/2012, By: Carl
Info: There is some ice on the 5.4 pitch(s) on the cables route. Makes the climb just a little more challenging since you‘re limited on holds that aren‘t iced over. Placed a few cams when I otherwise wouldn‘t have. Certainly not a deal breaker, but just a heads up. Also heard there is a little ice on the northwest couloir. Looked down the homestretch and it appeared dry. Didn‘t hear any mention of ice/snow on Keyhole route. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/30/2012, By: seaplus
Info: Arrive early if you want to park in the lot at the Trailhead...we arrived at 1:30am and there were only 5 spots available. Perfect conditions...no ice or snow anywhere along the route. Due to showers the previous day, the Trough & Homestretch had some flowing water and wet areas. This was my first time to summit Longs so these wet areas I described are probably always present. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/26/2012, By: MissH
Info: Perfect conditions. Snow patch on the right side of the Trough is completely avoidable. Spots of ice (and melting ice) throughout are completely avoidable as well and should not pose a challenge. Get to trailhead early if you want to have a chance to park in the lot, saw lots of cars parked down the road on my way out and lot was probably 60%-75% full at 3 am when I arrived. Some photos attached (Homestretch and Narrows) show you how dry it is now. And a fun one to show how windy it was :) 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/23/2012, By: flintster
Info: Longs via Loft Route with Mt Meeker thrown in for good measure. No microspikes or anything needed. One "spot" of ice on the loft couloir - but unlike the misleading posts usually typed up here - the ramps are not icy. There is ice in 1 spot, but there are lots of spots to go around it. Loft to Keplinger‘s to summit of Longs was 99.99% dry - with some occasional snow melt running - but totally avoidable. 

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Posted On: 7/2/2012, By: klimbien
Info: Route is in and awesome. Lambs slide was easy moving and was the only snow on the route (which could be avoided if you wanted to) Very little snow on broadway - easily avoidable. I wore 5.10 approach shoes and was very glad with that decision. I will post some photos of the rack that we carried. I found it to be MORE than enough gear for the rock sections. We also carried one single 60m 8mm line and just doubled it over on itself. I climbed with both ends tied into my harness and my partner put a double figure eight on a bite at the middle of the rope. Very lightweight, and provided plenty of line to rap the cable route. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/10/2012, By: Alan Arnette
Info: Dry until ramp off Loft Couloir then patchy snow fields. Down climb to Clarks Arrow and to just below Homestretch dry with few areas of avoidable snow. Tough is rotten snow on south side of gully but can be down climbed on right avoiding snow. Dry on Ledges and below. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/8/2012, By: scrambling
Info: Conditions seem to be changing rapidly but on June 7 the crux of the route was the trough, where there is a mix of hard frozen snow, softer (kickable) snow, frozen plunge steps, ice, loose rock, etc. I was uncomfortable in there, going back and forth from rock to snow, sometimes using an ax, sometimes wanting both hands. I had crampons but did not use them. There are places they would be helpful, places they won‘t. It‘s a personal thing though, of course. I know that others went through with nothing, wearing trail shoes and shorts. Other than the trough, there are no problems whatsoever. There was some verglass on the homestretch at 9 a.m. and likely will be early in the day for days/weeks to come. It got my attention, but is avoidable. Any snow/ice on the various ledges is easily avoidable. The approach trail up to the Boulderfield CG is in great shape (tiny bits of snow in a few shady spots). There is no snow from the CG to the keyhole. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 5/15/2012, By: Alan Arnette
Info: A few snow piles below treeline then clears up - no spikes needed. Snow avoidable in Boulderfield. Ledges extremely icy in many spots- care advised. Trough snow packed with boot path. Narrows had large area coved by recent slide, icy in many spots. Homestretch had many sections covered in veriglasss with snow near top. Used microspikes down and none up, no ice axe. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 5/2/2012, By: pete26
Info: I hiked the keyhole route today. Left the TH at 315am. It took me 5hrs to the summit including a 30min break at the keyhole. Then only took me 3.5 hrs down for a round trip of 8.5hrs. Clear night with many stars turned into a cloudy sunrise. snow in the trees was packed down from others so no issue crossing it. windy once above treeline. mix of snow on the trail after the keyhole. ice axe was totally needed. spikes or crampons depending on your comfort level.