Longs Peak

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/30/2015, By: rabonz
Info: Standing and running water on trail but no snow to the camp sites in the Boulder Field. Snow and ice on route past the Keyhole. I turned back half way up the Trough, I only had micro spikes and trekking poles and I questioned a safe down climb from the summit. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/30/2015, By: mzagorski
Info: Started from the trailhead at 230am. Made it to the Keyhole at 530am. Only encountered a few patches of snow below the keyhole but didn't require any traction devices. The ledges were clear of snow other than one section that we hiked around. Towards the end of the ledges there was plenty snow and the trough was completely covered. Crampons and ice axe definitely required. Snow felt stable going up but a bit more slushy on the decent, especially int he center where snow melt is flowing underneath. Beyond the trough there was no snow again until the homestretch. Again, crampons and ice axe were required. Snow on the homestretch was slighly more icier than the trough. The summit is covered in snow but we had clear blue skies and only a few clouds that didn't look threatening.

The decent took longer than going up, partly due to encountering some other climbers going up (some only went part way). The snow at the bottom of the homestretch was a little more loose and required extra care to navigate. By the time we got to the keyhole around 12:30 the summit was shrouded by grey clouds and there was a bit of light rain and hail. The weather cleared up for the rest of the hike back to the trailhead. 

Route: The Flying Dutchman
Posted On: 6/27/2015, By: benglish
Info: Weird foggy day. Trail to Chasm Lake is 99% snow free. Snow in the couloir was a little soft on top but great for step kicking. Crux was a melted out, loose waterfall but this was the only bad part of the entire route. We encountered more snow to the loft and dry conditions to the summit of Meeker. The Loft ramp was dry and the glissade was spectacular. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/24/2015, By: Alan Arnette
Info: Summited 24 June 2015 in full-on winter conditions above the Keyhole. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/21/2015, By: cphenry
Info: Did not summit today, but hiked up to the Boulder Field. I was surprised by the lack of snow, given some of the reports I had read. Granted the trail was a bit of a stream coming out of Granite Pass, but there was practically no snow on the trail before the Boulder Field. Though I didn't go beyond, there was obviously some snow on the steeper section leading up to the Keyhole. And, of course, beyond the Keyhole is another story. There was also very little snow in Jim's Grove. Three short snowfields at the end, none of which required any gear to negotiate. I imagine they will be melted out quickly. 

Route: North Face
Posted On: 6/21/2015, By: cougar
Info: still a lot of snow holding on the north face and keyhole routes, but there hasn't been an overnight freeze so the snow is really soft and variable firmness and depth. Didn't summit Longs but here's some info and pics on the area.

The trail is mostly dry/snow free to the boulderfield with the occassional small drift. Expect these to be gone in the next week. In the boulderfield, it's very wet with water flowing down the trail. There is also a sheet of snow undercut by cold water pools (a cold posthole) in spots. Sloppy wet snow in boulderfield. There is a snow ramp up to the Keyhole and up the North Face. Coverage is there but snow is soft and highly variable. Loft is full of snow. Mt Lady Washington is basically dry. Storm Peak has snow caking the east face, not too deep but soft and highly variable. Snow can be mostly avoided by going up the north ridge.

Snow is melting very fast and expect this to be mostly melted out by next weekend, but still very wet with running water.

I also got a good look at Glacier Gorge from Storm Peak and the whole upper gorge is still coated in snow. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/18/2015, By: Board Shorts
Info: Went up Flying Dutchman's Couloir and descended Lambs Slide.
Started up couloir 7:55 am, snow was softer in the sun, firm in the shade. Crux was continous ice/snow to climber's right, melted out at top on left. Roughly WI 3+
Met another party that turned back from Kiener's due to unstable snow on Broadway. 

Route: Up N Face down Keyhole
Posted On: 6/10/2015, By: pbakwin
Info: Went up the N Face and down the Keyhole this morning. There's the usual drifts on the trail to treeline, but the snow is well packed. Above that patchy snow up to the Boulderfield which is all snow and kind of huge slush pond in spots. Freeze line was quite high (13k+) last night. Drizzle or light snow most of this morning. NF is 100% snow and quite good, though exceptionally soft today so that I felt there was a non-zero possibility of wet slab. Once the next warm spell hits it probably won't be 100% snow anymore. The good line is on the slabs climber's left of the old cables, which are melted out. Keyhole is also nearly 100% snow above the Keyhole itself. Homestretch was good & firm, Narrows had super soft, sketchy snow (I am going to get flushed off the ledge???), Trough had good, soft, glissadable snow & more snow than I've ever seen in there (good ski!), Ledges again super soft, saturated snow. Charlie N. has some photos of the NF from Monday morning which give a good sense of it, though clearly the snow was much more firm. http://charlienuttelman.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_8.html 

Route: North Face
Posted On: 6/4/2015, By: jkillgore
Info: Inspired by Dan's beautiful photos yesterday, had to go sneak in a clean descent of the NF before the slabs melt out. Hard freeze from 11,500' to 13k. Bit softer on the face (ranged from toe to calf depth), but still not wet. Face skied beautifully, with slightly better freeze on climbers left. Slabs go clean and overall ski is pretty moderate, just dont fall or go too far right. Skis on for 3k from summit. Some skiing and walking got us to goblin forest, then walking to car. Dropped in a bit after 8:30. I wouldnt want to be much later than that without a way harder freeze on the face itself. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/2/2015, By: Daniel Joder
Info: I was just up on top of Mount Lady Washington this morning for some sunrise photography. Of special interest in my blog entry are the photos of the snow cover, especially a good close-up of the snow cover on the Cable Route area of Longs. It's getting warm, so things will most likely change quickly over the next few days. Here is the link: http://www.danieljoderphotography.com/colorado-summits-mount-lady-washington-13281-full-moon-and-heavy-snow/

Up the Longs Trail and MLW East Ridge, I used bare boots, microspikes, and snowshoes at varying times along the route. Glad I carried the latter, for sure. Saw tracks leading to the Keyhole through the Boulderfield (which is just a field of white). 

Route: Keplinger Couloir
Posted On: 6/1/2015, By: bjburg
Info: Skied Keplinger's and The Flying Dutchman this Sat (3/30) & Sunday (3/31). Good freeze on Friday night. Not so great on Sunday.

Keplinger's - Coverage was great on The Homestretch and the couloir itself.

TDF - The crux of mixed rock/ice section is snow covered and skiable.

Was able to skin/ski from 10k (little lower on the wild basin side).

Pictures of both lines on this blog posting - http://www.skithegarage.blogspot.com/2015/06/longs-peak-keplinger-couloir-and-flying.html

Enjoy -

Brad 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 5/20/2015, By: dweiss2
Info: Didn't climb to the summit today, just some photos and info to the trail junction: fresh snow early this morning, but melting out fast about 1/2 mile below timberline. snowshoes are very helpful, although the traction it gave was our biggest help. Some evidence of instability with the warm temperatures today on the approach to Chasm Lake from the trail junction (rolling snow balls, sluffing, unsupportive snow, crumbling ice and rock, etc.). Trail was fairly easy to follow the whole way, although another few inches could cover our tracks fairly easily. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 5/14/2015, By: BillMiddlebrook
Info: Two skiers triggered a slide on the north face - glad they made it out OK. 

Route: N Face
Posted On: 5/12/2015, By: lodgling
Info: Secondhand info here, but Longs N Face looking somewhat "in." 

Route: Keplinger Couloir
Posted On: 5/4/2015, By: jmc5040
Info: The snow coverage on Longs Peak from the summit to Wild Basin is amazing for skiing. The ski conditions of the Homestretch and ramp leading to Keplinger's Couloir are very good IMO. The couloir itself consists of about 70% avalanche debris, but if you time it well and get lucky with the weather the skiing is still quite good... at least much better than I was thinking it would be on the ascent. I didn't take any photos, but below is a link to a video I put together. The lighting was inconsistent and washed out a bunch of snow detail, but still paints the picture of coverage. Also included some photos my partner took.

https://youtu.be/W4IFb2gYnik