Longs Peak

Route: Kiener's
Posted On: 7/29/2024, By: jtfoss1
Info: We were pleasantly surprised by Lamb's slide conditions - not great for skiing but excellent for climbing. The rest of the route is dry. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/24/2024, By: charlieg
Info: Very dry throughout except for some seepage here and there; totally avoidable. There's a mild trickle of a stream near the start of the trough going up that's also easily avoided/overcome. 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 7/16/2024, By: Hiking_TheRockies
Info: route is in summer conditions with a decent amount of wet rock. any residual snow on the approach is easily avoidable. jims grove trail is in great condition and bathrooms at boulder field and chasm junction are open! absolutely stellar day up above treeline. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 7/12/2024, By: ezabielski
Info: Summer conditions. At the top of the Loft Couloir you come to the left edge of the snow field, but you don't touch it. And then before you join the homestretch you go below a snowfield. That's it. 

Route: Keyhole Ridge/North Face (Cables)
Posted On: 7/6/2024, By: Wildernessjane
Info: Completely dry conditions on the Keyhole Ridge route. All snow on the ramp was avoidable. Descended via North Face, rapping what we could and down-climbing the rest. There is fair bit of ice on the North Face route still (shown in pics). I am sure one could find an alternate way up though. We brought microspikes but did not use them. Snow at the base of the North Face was avoidable. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/3/2024, By: bangerth
Info: There are minor spots on the route that have running water or ice (in the Trough, and on the Homestretch), but all are easily avoided. The snow field in the Trough is small and easily bypassed on the left. For all practical purposes, it's summer conditions. Cables Route: There are still some snow fields on the approach as well as right on the part that people typically protect. Also higher up, though I assume those can be bypassed. Loft Route: The usual snow field on the Loft persists, as does a good sized field in the Loft Couloir itself. From below, it looks like the exit ramp at the top of the couloir is free, though. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/29/2024, By: dmorris3
Info: The trail conditions are good up to the trough. The trough is a little toughjust have to navigate around the ice. The narrows are good. And the home stretch has a little ice in some spots. Overall, the conditions are great and just a little patience and carefulness are needed. 

Route: Notch Couloir
Posted On: 6/24/2024, By: Anima
Info: Climbed the Notch Couloir and Step ladder yesterday with Moonstalker. Lambslide has a bootpack and Broadway is almost entirely dry. The Notch Couloir is still holding snow, but there is a dry step just after the dogleg. Mashed potato, rotten snow most of the way up. We simul climbed given the snow conditions. Just before the notch we climbed 4th-5th class rock into step ladder (5.4) and then scrambled up to the summit. Rappelled the cables route which has lots of running water. Overall not worth climbing any more unless there is a significant freeze. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/24/2024, By: slawrence2011
Info: Summited via loft. Basically dry until right after chasm lake split off. Then easy snow up to the loft, which is all snow to the ledge exit climber's left. There is one low angle rock and ice band to cross down low, which I did in crampons and axe, or can go around on talus. Clark's arrow finish summer conditions except snowfield right before homestretch. Still firm, I was glad for ice axe. We were intending to ski Keplinger, but once we got a view of it, it is pretty discontinuous, maybe 50 percent in, worse than even the loft. So we returned Clark's arrow and skied lambslide in great conditions from 13k to chasm lake at 12k. Had to hike down ridge about 200 ft from loft platform. Doesn't really seem worth it to ski Longs at this point, but it was fun. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/20/2024, By: TetonRob
Info: Keyhole route is clear of snow and ice, there is some in the trough and a little ice in the morning on the home stretch but can be easily avoided. Did route 6/20/24 without crampons or ice axe. You can still choose to take snow all the way up the trough as of 6/20 but you can also avoid it, I scrambled around to the left. Remaining Snow will likely be gone from the trough in the next week 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 6/19/2024, By: Logan5280
Info: Climbed and rappelled the cables with Clark on 6/18. The hike into the boulder field is almost in summer condition with the exception of a few short snowfields and spots on the trail with avoidable snowmelt streams. The approach snowfield up to chasm view was frozen pretty solid early in the morning with a short, somewhat avoidable ice choke about 2/3 of the way up; we ended up simuling the snowfield. An axe was very useful but traction wasn't necessary with some caution. The crux pitch had a sizeable amount of verglas on it when we started climbing around 7:30am, but it had melted into trickling water by the time we were descending. It was completely doable in approach shoes, but a bit tougher with the ice. The second pitch also had some ice and moving water, making for some trickier smearing moves. All the bolts are exposed and free of snow. There are 2 snowfield crossings on the upper north face where an axe came in handy. Above the snowfield, it's dry to the summit. A group we met who ascended via the keyhole said that parts of the ledges and trough are still holding a bit of snow, but that the narrows and homestretch are dry. Overall, a great day on my favorite peak! 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 6/15/2024, By: justiner
Info: It is almost summer out there my dudes. Small snowfield on the approach -- a lightweight axe is nice, didn't feel the need for crampons. The money pitches are pretty wet, but doable. Any snow higher up is easy to cross with a lightweight axe (no crampons again). Keyhole is also mostly snow-free or able to be avoided, save for the Trough, where there's a bit of snow to climb high up -- most everything else can be avoided. There may be spots of snow on the Ledges as well-- again lightweight axe is nice, crampons are probably unneeded. Water is flowing literally everywhere. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/12/2024, By: jeffmpls
Info: From the Keyhole to the Trough, the Ledges are a mix of rock and snow. I put on my crampons about 1/4 of way down the Ledges and kept them on until the top of the Trough, although there was significant gaps through the Ledges with bear rock. The Narrows and Homestretch were 90% snow free and I did not use crampons from the top of the Trough to the summit. The Trough will likely hold snow for another 2 weeks or more, and the Ledges might melt out in 8-10 days. The Boulder field to the Keyhole was 80% snow free and melting fast. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/4/2024, By: viejo
Info: Up Keyhole, return Cables. Typical shoulder season drifts/slush piles from Goblin Forest to tree line. No flotation needed. Spikes useful in the early AM. Dry or well consolidated snow above treeline to boulder field. Good snow approach from boulder field to Keyhole. Ledges punchy in places. Lots of side hilling. Switched to crampons here. Packed snow in the trough. Narrows in good shape, packed snow or rock. No drifts. Some rock and mostly packed snow on home stretch. Rock hopped the old cables trail for a few hundred feet vertical before the snow traverse to top of the cables. Rap pin totally exposed. Lower dihedral pretty much filled in, with dry rock crack to midpoint pin. Pretty good packed snow from midpoint pin to exit. Exit somewhat thin. Continuous snow from base of cables down into boulder field. 

Route: North Face/Cables Route
Posted On: 4/14/2024, By: Camden7
Info: Snow starting immediately from the trailhead all the way to the Boulder field, which is mostly dry. The trail is mostly packed in to about 10,600 ft, then floatation is absolutely necessary. The shortcuts had no tracks on them yet and we had to break trail, probably would have been easier to just take the trail. North face route has good stable snow up to the base of the rock. Currently mixed conditions with ice and snow in cracks and ledges. Mostly very easy travel that I would have been happy soloing but there were maybe 2 moves as hard as M2(?) that I appreciated the rope on. Above the eyebolts shallow snow and easy 3rd class rock made for quick travel. Such a beautiful mountain, always leaves me wanting to come back.