Longs Peak

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/15/2021, By: Baji
Info: The Keyhole route is in good shape. There is still a little snow in the Trough but it is easily avoided. Ledges, Narrows, and Homestretch all dry. I went up on the Keyhole route and descended the Clark's Arrow/Loft route. There is still a little snow on the rocks as one traverses from the Homestretch over to the gulley for the Loft descent, but it is not a problem to go around it. Lots of people on the Keyhole route on a weekday, but there were still parking spaces in the lot available at 4:15 a.m. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 7/14/2021, By: nickcreek72
Info: Loft route is totally in summer conditions. Climb to Meeker is dry as well. A decent patch of snow at the top of Keplinger's Colouir when turning left away from the notch and toward the Homestretch. I traversed above it on rock ledges which worked fine. Went down the Keyhole route and it was all clear. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/10/2021, By: Mkost
Info: Keyhole route is mostly clear of snow and ice but still some ice to contend with in the Trough. Was able to make it up without traction/axe but had to take a slightly different line with more challenging moves to the left (for those with less class 3 experience, I would recommend waiting a week or two for more of the ice in the center of the gully to melt out. It was challenging to take the left-line as a shorter climber but felt ok based on my experience). A little bit of black ice on the homestretch so be careful, but otherwise dry. Left trailhead at 2:20 am and there were a few spots in the parking lot and plenty of parking available on the road up to the trailhead. Route was busy but not as crowded as I was expecting. Was glad to have had an early start and would recommend starting around 2-2:30 am to avoid summer storms. Beautiful day! 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/6/2021, By: sfreytag
Info: Summited via Keyhole route. There is still snow in the trough and some hard ice on the homestretch but this can mostly be avoided with the correct line. Stay left in the trough and right on the homestretch and you should be golden. I brought an ice axe and crampons and didn't really need them (used them going up trough but stayed out of the snow on the descent). Saw a trail runner summit in nothing but shorts and running shoes. Past 3 days have been very warm on Long's. Snow is melting quick. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/5/2021, By: trkl9
Info: Got a good view of the trough from the glacier gorge basin. Still holding some snow. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/30/2021, By: MrSmileweil
Info: Did the Loft-Keyhole loop. If you are not familiar with how to deal with snow and ice, do not climb longs yet. It is not in season for the average hiker. Going up to the ridge via the normal route was somewhat fine, not too much snow or ice to deal with, cut left at the top of the gully to ascend the ridge. Went down back side and traversed over and up. A lot more snow on back side from fresh snowfall and still some large winter snowfields at the top before meeting up with keyhole. Very icy and wet on the backside of longs too. Final 250 ft ascent to the summit can be sketchy since a large portion of the normal route is covered in thin layers of snow on slick angled rock that wont hold you. Had to opt to take side routes to get to the top. Back down keyhole there's a giant 400ft or so snowfield you have to go down still and a lot of the rock on the traverse is icy and wet. Recommend starting early so the snow holds you better. 

Route: Keiners
Posted On: 6/28/2021, By: Micaiah
Info: Very wet after recent snow. Layers of corn and new graupel on top of saturated snow. Light freeze last night helped hold it all together. Verglass prevalent on upper half of the route.
Cables eyebolts all exposed. Much running water. Trail to keyhole melted off. Unable to see the homestretch thru the fog. Conditions will change rapidly. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/15/2021, By: DorothyK
Info: Went up Lambs Slide from behind Chasm Lake up to the Loft. Lambs Slide has some good (skiable?) snow on it. Needed crampons all the way up to the Loft. Loft is mostly dry, took crampons off. There was some snow on the way up to the top of the Loft. Rappelled down into the Notch. Donned crampons from bottom of Notch up around the side to Homestretch. Needed crampons on Homestretch to summit. Had summit all to ourselves. Headed down Cables; soft snow, needed crampons. Rappelled down the slabs towards the bottom of Cables. Then crampons off, partial snow, partial rocks. It was a day of putting crampons on and taking them off. Things are melting out fast 

Route: CLARK'S ARROW
Posted On: 6/13/2021, By: 7Below
Info: Ascended Long's via Clark's Arrow Couloir after descending Meeker. Snow was steep and very hard. Low grade alpine ice in sections. Having two tools and crampons would be wise. Snow on home stretch was steep and slick. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/12/2021, By: arthurtect
Info: Made it up the Loft Route to Mount Meeker. The Loft Route coulier is still full of soft snow. Lose 4-8" with every 12" step, but the glissade down made it worth it. The left turn at the top of the route is a little hairy. Considered doing Long Peak but didn't like the snow on the Homestretch. Have to admit, finding the route route the Notch was difficult, hope to have the time to place more cairns next time.

Decided to summit Mount Meeker for the first time, for both my son and I. Dry all the way up from the saddle. Considered taking the ridge down through the Iron Gates, but hadn't done enough research of that route and that ridge is very exposed! Great choice, because the glissade back down the Loft coulier was phenomenol! The quick swim at Chasm afterwards was just as refreshing! 

Route: Loft - Keplingers
Posted On: 6/7/2021, By: coopereitel
Info: Climbed loft to summit, then skied Keplingers. Set up a car shuttle. Started climb at 2:00, summited at 11:20 returned to car by 7:00. Underestimated the loft couloir, but didn't really slow us down. The ski by 11:40 or so was absolutely mashed potatoes and slidey. Keps is melting out pretty quickly. Summit ski still possible, it's what we did. Homestretch actually held the best snow to ski. Keps was pretty wet and snow was sliding. Bushwhack out of valley to the trail was horrible. Once on the trail, the miles went by quicker. I'd recommend getting a solid freeze.

Photo credits to: Josh, David, and me. Thanks guys! 

Route: Kieners
Posted On: 6/7/2021, By: Tsandor
Info: Still lots of snow above the tree line. Broadway traverse is covered in snow. Noontime sun begins melting the snow really quickly setting off lots of size 1 loose wet avalanches. 

Route: Cable Route
Posted On: 6/3/2021, By: FreeFreaks
Info: Some minor post holing on the approach but we left at 2am from Battle Mountain camp when the snow was still hard. Good snow up the Cable Route with crampons and axe. Only needed to navigate around 2 exposed rock sections where the snow was thin down low on the route. The snow was a lot softer on the way down but still decent. In hindsight I wish we had brought a rope to rap down although we didn't see an exposed anchor near the top. 2 anchors were visible in the technical sections of exposed rock down low. 1100ft of down climbing is no joke, we were happy to reach the bottom without incident. https://imgur.com/EQdYGES 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 5/31/2021, By: RobertoL411
Info: Started my hike to the Boulder field around 1:30 from Longs Peak Trail head. Hard packed snow patches were prevalent within a few hundred yards of the trail head. Goblins Forest is still pretty patchy snow and the trail from their to the key hole is all snow for the most part (few clear spots).It is packed well up too Chasam junction. I didn't post hole from trail head to Chasam even though I hiked that in the afternoon. From Chasam to Boulder field is still mid shin deep snow. Camped at the boulder field, which is still completely covered, Toilets are locked still and the shelter by the key hole is full of snow. Started the Key hole at 1am, route was still completely covered in snow. Had to kick steps all the way. Post holed a few times on the ledges. The trough was still pretty solid snow and ice. The narrows was the sketchiest part. All covered still, one slip there and there is no room for self arresting, it's adios amigo. Summit was great, solid snow and the clouds lifted just in time. Would 100% recommend crampons still. 

Route: Keplinger Couloir
Posted On: 5/29/2021, By: dsr80304
Info: Climbed and skied keplinger today. One other group of two was also up there a bit ahead of us, but didnt see anyone else on Longs summit. Conditions mid to late morning were pretty ideal.
Lots of snow up there still, and it connects easily from summit, homestretch, traverse and keps.
We came up from Wild Basin, and snow on the trail was frozen enough to hike to sandbeach lake. Started around 2am. The skin was kind of ugly for say the first half mile, had to take skis on/off a couple times, but then was solid.
We exited by wrapping round the skiers right side of the lake and then following the other group's tracks (super helpful) to avoid the brutal bushwhack going more directly back to the lake.
Also, Dragons Egg in good shape too (see second pic)