Longs Peak

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 9/1/2021, By: Ericsheffey
Info: Dry from TH to summit, no snow or ice. Water running strong enough through Boulderfield to refill bottles if needed. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/30/2021, By: sehessler92
Info: Route is completely dry. There is a small section on the narrows that had some very shallow muddy water but the section can be avoided. No snow or ice to deal with this morning. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/29/2021, By: Sambvaughan
Info: Totally clear day. Parade of people from bottom to top. Trailhead parking was full at 2am, so we had to park on the road. No water obstructed the trail. For those of you who don't know the wind died down for us past the keyhole (which acts as a wind tunnel), but just use caution.
Crazy busy yesterday, can only imagine what next weekend will be like. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/27/2021, By: ekalina
Info: The trough had a very light dusting of snow in it this morning, and the upper portion of the homestretch had some isolated patches of glaze ice. Presumably this is from the storms that occurred during the evening of 8/26. The dusting of snow didn't present any challenge. The glaze required some careful attention to detail to negotiate safely. It has probably already melted and dried out, given the Homestretch's southerly exposure, but is a reminder that fall is coming to the high elevations. 

Route: Up Dialog on Zen, down Cables
Posted On: 8/24/2021, By: Micaiah
Info: The recent snow has melted off. Found dry rock on the North and West faces of the mountain. The cracks on Cables were a bit wet, but no more than normal. Broadway was dry, Diamond looked dry too from Chasm View 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/9/2021, By: Jennifersk
Info: As the last person mentioned, there is some water on the very lefthand side of the homestretch. It's enough to make the rock slick, but it's easily avoidable. There was some standing water along the narrows, but that too was easily avoidable. The water is nothing to be worried about as long as you're paying attention, and the rest of the route was in perfect condition.
The weather was perfect despite the smoke, so we took a lot of extra time resting and relaxing along the way. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 8/5/2021, By: mijoflynn
Info: With the heavy rain earlier in the week, there's some standing and running water past the Keyhole -- most noticeably on the Homestretch. Not enough to keep people from summitting -- several did today -- but enough to make things slippery in places. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 7/27/2021, By: cmbaker
Info: Re: several days before - route finding is indeed tricky from the Loft. Look at the photos, it is much lower than you think to depart the Loft and look for the cairn marking the gully entrance. Several groups ahead of us got off-route and gained far too much altitude; we made the mistake of following them, and wasted a lot of time & energy.

Also - as the snow melts, both in the Loft couloir and elsewhere, the runoff is making the rock very slippery in places. But, if you're patient, you can find other places to filter water higher than the boulder field, etc as a result. 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 7/25/2021, By: Eli Watson
Info: Summited Longs Pk via Cables today.

Cables are still wet but manageable in my Mutants. Snow is completely avoidable, summer conditions. Great day out there aside from the wildfire haze. TH @ 7:27 AM.

4:24 TH-TH, new personal record. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 7/24/2021, By: Troyister
Info: Fun loop and also climbed Meeker. Loft route was easy up to the Loft. Finding the shelves that help avoid the cliffs were very obvious. No snow on this route. Lots of water still flowing below Chasm Lake. The route from the Loft to the Homestretch does take some patience and route finding. Lots of areas where people have gone before and a few cairns but not enough to follow a route with. Had to backtrack a couple of times but read the 14ers route description and that should give you enough to find your way. This way with a Meeker summit was 14.1 miles, slightly shorter than the Keyhole out and back, 6350 feet of elevation gain, according to Strava. Took me a total of 8 hours, I spent about 10 minutes on Meeker, and 15 on Longs 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/26/2021, By: skeater912
Info: Copious other condition updates - summer on longs, hot. Pretty quiet on Friday the 23rd, which was pleasant. Weather was perfect for us, we missed the rain on thursday and friday afternoons... and no wind on the summit. Camped at the boulderfield the night before - great spot to camp, easy water access.

The trough is loose. Glad to have helmets on the way down as the people heading up later weren't excellent about their foot placements, or rock calls. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/22/2021, By: jakeandorbake
Info: Started 2:25am on Wednesday the 21st. Unbelievably still weather and warm temps, even before dawn and even past the keyhole. The only ice now is tiny bits in the trough - my actual gripe was with random small puddles that killed shoe friction haha. No verglas. Quick and beautiful descent with on/off cloud cover. I was back in the south Denver metro by 11, but the weather looked to be holding out until even then, from what I could gather at a distance

Splits (total time): 2:25 to keyhole, 1:25 to summit, 0:20 at summit, 2:40 down; 6:50
5:55 net moving time 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/20/2021, By: Duxbellorum
Info: Route is mostly dry, you'd have to go out of your way to step on the few remaining patches of icy snow in the trough. Lots of piles of loose rock in the trough -- a few got pushed down under the crowds but nothing close to anybody. Cairns in the boulder field are sparse but barely necessary as it's easy to lope across the shards toward fixed landmarks.

Weather was almost too HOT to be comfortable after 10:00AM on the descent (3:00AM start, 7:40AM Summit, 12:30PM cars), a rarity to be sure. 

Route: Kieners
Posted On: 7/20/2021, By: stuckinindiana
Info: Did Kieners yesterday—Lambs Slide was all snow, no ice, but the snow was hard enough at about 7am that my piolet was better as a tool than a self-belay. No real snow on Broadway (or anywhere on the route aside from Lambs slide). 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 7/17/2021, By: alybadran
Info: Summited Longs 11am Friday 07/16/2021. The weather conditions were optimal for the climb. Most of the snow melted on the ledges, narrows, and homestretch with a few at the trough that could be avoided. Thunderstorms and lightning started at the decent at 1pm earlier than the weather reports of 5pm. Extreme care must be taken especially after the keyhole rote. Movements must be stable, exposure is unforgiving and rock fall is common due to unexperienced climbers taking the wrong moves on unstable boulders.