Longs Peak

Route: Wild Basin
Posted On: 11/26/2022, By: timewarp01
Info: Did not climb Longs today, but got a great view of Keplinger's and the Homestretch from Mt. Orton this morning. Unfortunately did not get a view of the Trough or Keyhole as we turned around before summiting Chief's Head. The Sandbeach Lake trail has a great trench the whole way, but progress beyond that is 1-2 feet of unconsolidated powder below treeline. Very slow going even with snowshoes. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 11/2/2022, By: aolsen356
Info: Snow and ice on the ground. About 6 to 12 inches of snow across the boulder field, ledges and trough. The move at the top of the trough was covered in ice. The narrows had 6 to 12 inches of snow. The homestretch had ice and snow in-between the rock slabs, making it slick and more difficult to find holds; use extreme caution on the homestretch. Do not ascend the homestretch without the right equipment. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 10/20/2022, By: L_Macalister
Info: Keyhole route was dry until the upper half of the Trough where traction was helpful. Narrows and Homestretch were completely dry. 

Route: Up via Loft Route and down via Keyhole
Posted On: 10/15/2022, By: blonde_dinosaur
Info: Went up the Loft and down the Keyhole. Loft has little snow, mostly small patches that can be avoided, and only starts in the Loft couloir. Pay careful attention to find the exit ramp out of the Loft couloir. I wore spikes on the exit ramp as that still had some snow, but my climbing partner did not. It is super easy to add Mt. Meeker to this route (which we did) if you are interested. The point to descend into Keplinger is not super obvious. As someone noted a few updates ago, if you don't think you are in the right place, you are probably too high (which we were!). Keyhole route still has snow in the trough and a very little bit in the narrows. Homestretch is totally dry. I wore spikes in the trough and was glad I did, but it's up to your comfort level. Poles might be helpful here too. I brought an ice axe with me and never used it. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 10/8/2022, By: shilling220
Info: Ice and snow after the keyhole. About 1-3 inches, but it snowed more on our way down. Micro spikes are recommended. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 10/3/2022, By: winter_wisher
Info: Thin ice and snow covers much of the route. Snow was about 1" from Boulderfield onward; in the Trough, snow was 2"-5" depending on drift. Conveniently, most of the bullseye marks were still visible. Traction (e.g. microspikes) is a must. Not enough coverage to warrant snowshoes or an ice axe. Homestretch was very risky, particularly on the descent - many hand-/foot-hold options are packed with snow and ice, making route-finding difficult and critical. 

Route: Radical Slam
Posted On: 9/27/2022, By: jahselassie
Info: Got after the Radical. Ice in various places but overall the entire route was fine. I've been up the Loft 3 times and every time struggle finding the correct entrance. Clarks Arrow is faint! The bushwhack to storm pass wasn't as bad as I was expecting. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 9/25/2022, By: andrew85
Info: Went up the Keyhole, got Longs and Meeker, and went down the Loft. The Keyhole is basically 100% clean. There was one area in the ledges and one in the narrows that had ice, but both were easily passable. The Loft on the other hand had many icy spots in the couloir, but the remaining route was clean but for avoidable ice in Keplinger's Couloir. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 9/19/2022, By: TheMDTerrappin
Info: The clear skies and warm temps on Sunday must have melted most of the snow from earlier in the weekend. My brother and I entered the Keyhole a bit after sunrise. Barely any snow or ice on the Ledges, Narrows, or Homestretch, however there were quite a few patches in the Trough but easily avoidable with all the scrambling options. Great weather for us, biggest hazard was the wind. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 9/18/2022, By: ReachingHigher
Info: The climb up the Loft Couloir was mostly snow free. Once we got to the ramp, there was patchy snow in places. It was crunchy today, but a couple of freeze/thaw cycles and it will be icy. The downclimb to Clark's Arrow, Keplinger's Couloir and the Homestretch were mostly snow free with a few avoidable spots in shady areas. We hiked over the Narrows and looked down the Trough to see the conditions (The Keyhole Route was closed today because of a fatality above the Ledges). The Narrows had small sections that were wet and had frozen during the night. The Trough looked like mostly crunchy snow, however the route around the SW side of the chockstone looked very icy. Please be careful and bring weather appropriate gear. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 9/17/2022, By: mtbforlife4
Info: Managed to summit today despite the dismal conditions. Everything beyond the keyhole is a sheet of ice, spikes are necessary. On a more important and somber note, I came across a deceased hiker on the way down moments before the search and rescue rangers were extracting the body. Apparently they were stranded last night. I mean no disrespect to the hiker or the hikers family sharing this, I just hope this can prevent tragedies in the future. On my way up to the keyhole I passed many people who were ill equipped; hiking in sweatpants, nikes, no helmets, etc. Today was the most horrific thing I have experienced in the mountains and I wonder if it could have been avoided. Please, before heading into the mountains be sure you are well equipped and have a plan. I write this with a heavy heart, thoughts to the hikers family. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 9/17/2022, By: truekyle
Info: We made it up to the turn off for the saddle. By then a solid inch of snow was on the ground and continuing to fall at about 0730. We also ran into several slick rocks and ice. No longer summer conditions. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 9/17/2022, By: JeffPurdy
Info: Ice forming in couloir with a very light dusting of snow in a few locations. Otherwise the ascent was dry and predictable. I would note that after reaching the loft, as you cross the saddle, if you think you aren't in the correct point to descend into Keplinger, you're probably too high. I beat the storm that came in mid afternoon, summiting around 11 am, and conditions through the Trough were becoming slick as I was descending. I passed a climber who was ascending at the juncture between the Trough and the Narrows and it wasn't 15 minutes later that the snowy ice started whipping through. I had only seen a trio ascending from Keplinger while I was above looking down from the Loft and a solo coming off the top as I was ascending the Homestrech anywhere near the ascent from any route. I saw the trio later in the day so I, fearfully, assume it was the person at the top of the Trough that passed away. Otherwise, people were ascending VERY late in the afternoon, post storm. My heart aches for whoever it was. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 9/15/2022, By: bsiegs
Info: Summer conditions throughout. Route-finding past the top of the Loft Couloir requires some precision - sparsely cairned. Downclimb to Arrow is the crux - clearly class 4 imo. 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 9/12/2022, By: Eli Watson
Info: Ice in the Cables after the rain and cold weather this past weekend in the main crack above the second eyelet (the bent one). It can be bypassed by going climber's right. The rest of the route is ice free. I was fine in my Mutants, but it was slower than usual to be careful.