Longs Peak

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/26/2023, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed "Southeast Longs" and Mt. Meeker via the Loft on June 25. I didn't go over to the true summit of Longs. Still a lot of snow up there. I put on crampons at Chasm Lake and didn't take them off until I was back at the lake on the descent. I saw two people who skied down Lamb's Slide. The snow on the Loft was cold and crunchy. The snow on the ledge that exits the couloir was fairly icy, due to the water ice that is thawing and flowing off the cliffs above. It was more like climbing on a glacier than a snowfield. There is a good track but it's steep and some places are harder to kick steps than others. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/25/2023, By: deepdarkseas
Info: I did Chiefs Head a couple days ago, which gives probably the best view of the route past the Keyhole, so I thought the pictures I took might be helpful. Almost every section looks well snowed in. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/20/2023, By: justiner
Info: This is just a quick note to remind people that the East Longs Peak Campground is still closed and probably will be for a while more. I noticed a lot of very confused people drive to the closed entrance. OK that's all. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 6/19/2023, By: Ni ck
Info: The route to the Boulderfield was almost entirely free of snow, and water was streaming down many sections as I approached the Boulderfield. There were approximately five sections of 10 to 30m where snow was still covering the trail between where you exit the treeline and Granite Pass. The Boulderfield itself was free of snow until the area between the toilets and the Keyhole. I hopped on stones in my running shoes when I could, walked gently on top of the snow when I could, but in some sections I sank to my shins. Past the Keyhole, there were high winds blowing snow and ice. I transitioned out of my paper-thin hiking clothes and into a hardshell top and bottom with boots, crampons, and an ice axe. The high winds and blowing snow and ice persisted to the top of the Trough. The Ledges were covered in steep snow, but they were easily traversed with an ice axe and strap-on crampons. I met a pair of Europeans at the Keyhole making a go/no-go decision. They seemed better equipped and more experienced than I was, so I watched them step onto the Ledges and then followed behind them. As the three of us stepped onto the Ledges, the wind was blowing strong enough and the snow was sturdy enough that we could not see the bootpack of two other climbers we would later pass at the Trough as they descended. By the time we neared the Trough, I passed the Europeans and they seemed to stop for awhile, maybe keeping in cover in case I triggered an avalanche. Upon arriving at the Trough, it became clear that winds were blowing and gusting straight up the direction of travel. In some places, the snow was deeper and more powdery here than the Ledges, and there was some loose snow. Though, the snow was consistently fairly hard from Keyhole to the top of the Trough, compacting one to six inches with crampons, but usually closer to one inch. Upon reaching the top of the Trough, I could see very steep snow covering the Narrows. In addition, the winds were blowing strongly up the Trough and around the corner parallel to the Narrows. It did not seem plausible to proceed unprotected, so I turned around here. Two more experienced mountaineers (seemed to be locals) had already turned around ahead of me; we had passed each other at the base of the Trough. Another set of more experienced mountaineers was behind me in the Trough (the Europeans), and I do not know if they proceeded into the Narrows. They were roped up and traveling with considerable gear. On the return hike, the sun-blasted snow was turning to slush when I encountered patches again below the Boulderfied. Finally, you all need to stop feeding the Marmots in the Boulderfield! Two tried to attack me. 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 6/10/2023, By: zcrennen
Info: Cables is super filled in right now. Intermittent snow patches below treeline but nothing to worry about. Continuous snow starting at the boulder field. Make sure to plan out your line a little better than I did! Many of the narrow chutes are just covering rock, hard to climb. The wide paths have deep snow and make for a great climb. Even saw 2 skiers on cables. Didnt follow up with any of the people I saw going for keyhole, but it seems like cables is the move right now, park rangers said thats what they saw most people doing. An ice tool wouldve been nice, but did fine with axe, crampons, and a trekking pole. Start: 1:45 am. Summit: 8am. End: 2 pm. Go get er done while the snow lasts! 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 6/5/2023, By: daway8
Info: Actually went up Keyhole and down Cables. There is a LOT more snow since last week up past the Keyhole (below treeline is melting out fast). Plenty of small wet slides all over the place but seemed to mostly be new snow sluffing off from the last storm. However did encounter some very minor releases in various places. Cables was far more loaded than last week and all signs of previous tracks were wiped away. Ledges/Trough/Narrows/Homestretch also all very filled in. The Narrows are absolute sketch right now, especially when arriving at 8am to very firm snow. Many kudos to Sidney and Logan for blazing a trail across and high five to Cameron for sinking his teeth into a big one so soon after coming to Colorado (even though he wisely turned back partway across the Narrows upon realizing how sketch it was without crampons/axe). Sidney/Logan returned via the Narrows; I had had enough of that and went down Cables, despite never having done the route before (um, don't follow my tracks, if they're still there after the storm this afternoon). I think the rappel points must be buried in snow - there was enough that I went down dual-wielding ice axe/ice tool with crampons (on real mountaineering boots this time) and only had one section of a few feet where I scraped over barely buried rock so never needed to put any 5th class climbing into action - just stepped down facing in. Fun glissade at the bottom where I cleaned off some of the sluff. Massive dump of graupel after I got back down to Granite Pass - that will likely fill in most our tracks. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 5/31/2023, By: justiner
Info: Trail is a mess of mash potatoes. Keyhole is very much under snow. Not much of a bootpack for Ledges (don't get lost), ok one for Trough (or make your own!), and good one for Narrows. Homestretch is very firm snow with little rock poking through. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 5/30/2023, By: daway8
Info: Didn't summit but got close. No snow for first half mile then intermittent well packed snow up to treeline. After that continues to be a lot of dry ground with patches of snow here and there. Boulderfield filled in between rocks but the tops of most of them bare. Booted to Keyhole without issue in early morning. But after that crampons/ice axe pretty much essential. Ledges almost totally covered in steep snowfields of very firm snow - real pain to cross. Some spots had significant ice fields just below the surface which added challenge. The Trough was very well consolidated and fairly well filled in but just enough exposed rocks to make glissading challenging at times. The Narrows reportedly tend to be windswept or melted dry based on what I've heard - but not this year. The Narrows were basically as filled in as the Ledges. My strap-on crampons on regular boots are great for easy slopes but worthless for front-pointing or kick stepping. Someone had kicked steps across the Narrows on a previous day but in some sections they barely dented the snow. I didn't trust my strap-ons to get me across that so reluctantly turned back. Used my snowshoes from Keyhole to far side of the Boulderfield but could have just as easily rock hopped and saved on weight. No flotation or traction needed from there down since trail is heavily traveled. Cables route looks like it might possibly be filled in all the way with snow, for the moment - likely won't last long. 

Route: Keplinger Couloir
Posted On: 5/20/2023, By: Christensenje
Info: Its very in. Switched to skins 3 miles in. 

Route: Keplinger Couloir
Posted On: 5/6/2023, By: aksean22
Info: Climbed via the Loft and skied off the summit down Keplinger's and out Wild Basin with a shuttle car. Snow starts right out of the parking lot, with one long dry patch around treeline. The Loft was in good condition for booting. I think we got a bit off route traversing around the other side into Keplingers and definitely lost some time and more elevation then needed. Once we were in the couloir it was a straightforward booter to the summit. Homestretch is in great shape for skiing, very filled in. A lot of runnel in the middle of the couloir but it was mostly avoidable to skiers right. Continuous snow most of the way out Wild Basin, completely dry the last 1.5 miles. We never needed to put skins back on but be prepared for a lot of pushing yourself. Ended up being about 5600' and 16.5 miles. Very fun line! 

Route: NW Gully
Posted On: 4/30/2023, By: justiner
Info: Full Value today. Snow was incredibly deep. Good consolidation down low, but higher up, much more sugary and not able to hold my weight in many places. Made for exciting traverses on the ledges to climber's right. This proved problematic at the money pitch, as the base of the technical pitch was choked full of that snow. I had to compress the snow as best as I could with my whole body, before committing to using it to gain any upward progress. Clever chimneying and prayers/insults helped as well. I wasn't about to turn back there. The business above and right below the tunnel has been cleaned of snow so you can see the holds - you're welcome. I believed I yelled out (to know one): "FOR KING AND COUNTRY!" before commiting to stepping up and grabbing the holds above the piton (which also is stubbornly still there). Tunnel itself continues to have bulges of rocks that are essential to hitting one's head on (it seems). Snow above was again pretty sugary and unconsolidated, so as below, you may want to prefer the rock pitches and flex your creativity. This is a great route - really. A lot more straightforward when dry, but maybe a little more classic socked in with this much snow. I stick to the ledges to climber's right for most of the climb, which have a surprising amount of exposure. A good warmup for Kieners, without needing to slog up Lambslide/traverse Broadway. 

Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 4/30/2023, By: justiner
Info: Completely snowed in! I haven't personally seen this much snow on Keyhole in a long, long time. Snow was relatively stable, albeit not yet styrofoam. Snowshoes very much appreciated in the Boulderfield. Lightning Bridge had running water (last dependable water source). 

Route: Cables
Posted On: 3/25/2023, By: Svobatron
Info: Snow, snow, snow! No discernable trail from TH to boulderfield. Was a snowshoe slog then entire way. Cables route was covered in snow so I turned back from the stone bathrooms in the boulder field. A shame cause the weather held all day, it was beautiful. 

Route: Keplinger Couloir
Posted On: 3/20/2023, By: justiner
Info: Trail starts off dry with bits of nasty ice, then evolves into quite a impressive amount of snowpack. Snowshoes aren't needed to Sandbeach Lake, but you may appreciate them to smooth out the boot packing. The trail is as long as ever. No real trench dug to the Couloir, but snow coverage made it easy to get into. Skiing to the base of the couloir would probably be heavenly. Snow conditions on Clark's Arrow to Homestretch seemed pretty stable - those mini bowls and traverse always give me the willies though. Homestretch is mostly dry, with snow dolloped here and there. Crampons highly suggested. Not full coverage of the Couloir, so skiing down would be a little frustrating in a few places - Did enjoy some of the longest glissades of my life, where I could find it! 

Route: North Face
Posted On: 3/18/2023, By: Wimyers
Info: Writing this quickly in case anyone attempting this route tomorrow needs beta. Theres a dense wind slab from the boulder field to the cables pitch. This slab makes for nice climbing and didnt show any signs of reactivity, though we did stick to the rock rib at the edge and travel one at a time through this section because it made us nervous. The cables pitch is in really nice condition, easier than in summer. We set a belay at the first eyelet and I led the pitch placing one cam and slinging one eyelet. 30m of rope was perfect to get to the topmost eyelet. From here, there are two sets of tracks: one traversing to the left (East) and the other leading up and right. If you follow my tracks, go LEFT. Left is mostly exposed rock and is very easy. I made a really bad judgment here on the way up and went right through wind-loaded snow because thats the route I take in the summer and the snowpack below was decent. However, about halfway up the snowpack became very reactive (shooting cracks around me) and forced me onto a sketchy 5th class slab that was tough in mountaineering boots with crampons, and occasionally would force me back onto the reactive slab. From the summit, I went down the exposed rock steps that run along the diamond, which is the more commonly traveled route anyway, and it was super mellow. Oops. We did 3 30-meter rappels; one from the first eyelet, one from the last eyelet, and one from a slung horn to rap the steep snow slab. Interesting aside, at the first rap my wifes locker froze shut, trapping her nylon rappel extension to the eyelet. We tried for like half an hour to melt the ice to no avail. Since I didnt bring my rope knife, I ran a dyneema runner back and forth along the nylon sling until it melted through! Took about one minute. Other details: it was brutally cold this morning but nice by afternoon with no wind, and I brought snowshoes but did not need them because the snow on the trail was supportive enough without them.