This report is probably a bit moot now as snow hit Sat night/Sunday right after this, but maybe useful to someone... Sat (10/1) morning the water down the middle of the hourglass was iced up, so you definitely had to stay left. Plus got hit was some graupel which wetted everything out a bit. But good climbing up. Down of course is trickier and had to use the rope as a hand hold for the steepest section. We did tie off one damaged section of the main white rope for what it's worth. There's only a single pieced together rope up there right now. Only one "natural" rock came through the hourglass. Despite extreme care and waiting out those below us to clear, one small shift dislodged a rock down the HG which thankfully passed them safely... ugh.
But again, there was at least a few inches of snow up there the night/day after this report.
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