Little Bear Peak

Route: North West face and traverse to Blanca
Posted On: 6/18/2026, By: SnowAlien
Info: Did the NorthWest face (Black hand) route with Grizzly Adams. Started just to the right of the "black hand", it's choose your own adventure route. The initial section had some class 5 moves where I had to think about hand/foot placements. The middle section is Class 3. I was somewhat nervous about the upper part, but it was more obvious than expected and could be kept at class 4.
Continued with the traverse to Blanca, took about 3 hours. No snow on route except just below Blanca summit. 

Route: West Ridge Indirect
Posted On: 6/13/2026, By: AndrewJCraigie
Info: We were on the fence on doing hourglass or west ridge indirect, and choose west ridge. We felt we made the right call when we saw a fridge size boulder shoot down the hourglass. Terrifying 

Route: West Ridge Indirect
Posted On: 6/6/2026, By: V1per41
Info: Full Summer Conditions. 

Route: West Ridge Indirect
Posted On: 6/6/2026, By: ztweb
Info: The route is completely snow-free, including the entire gully. Having done the Hourglass route before, I can definitely say the West Ridge Indirect route feels a lot less like Russian roulette, but there is plenty of rock fall risk nonetheless.

The ridge crest is the most solid rock you’ll be on the entire day. I gained the ridge exactly where the gpx track prescribed and thought it was the most uncomfy climbing. Due to this, I decided to exit the ridge shortly after the crux (“before” the prescribed spot) and found it much easier. Beyond the looseness, the route is pretty straightforward and I found the crux to be pretty tame and less exposed-feeling than I was expecting.

As others have noted, the gully is pretty loose and you don’t want to be below any other parties while in it. I found descending it to be a lot more tedious than ascending it. When I climbed LB 2 years ago, I didn’t think that it was worse than other dust/scree/choss gullies, but IMO it’s gotten worse since then, along with the Lake Como Road. 

Route: West Ridge Indirect
Posted On: 6/2/2026, By: paigemoney
Info: Thank you to everyone who helped establish this route last year.

Current conditions: minimal snow in the gully and it is completely avoidable. The entire ridge is dry and was ice-free on Monday morning.

The gully descent is significantly worse than any route description indicates. In my opinion, it is actually the worst part of the route. I can't imagine being in there with multiple parties. We also witnessed natural rockfall in the gully from camp.

Even with avoiding the hourglass, rockfall risk on the entire route remains extremely high. This is a peak I would strongly recommend doing on a weekday with as few people around as possible. If multiple parties are on route, communicate and work together to stay out of each other's rockfall zones. No matter how careful you are, it is nearly impossible not to dislodge rocks. Test every hold, even the ones that look completely solid. I had multiple handholds that I expected to be able to use break loose or crumble.

In general, even with the fantastic route description, numerous trip reports, and videos I watched beforehand, I found this route much harder to stay on than expected. There are cairns everywhere—high and low—and the route doesn't flow naturally the way many other peaks do. So many features look identical. I do think staying on route is important—the trickiest climbing I encountered wasn't the crux itself, but an off-route section we accidentally ended up on.

For shorter climbers, I wanted to comment on the crux move. I am 5’3”. The move is extremely long. I considered using holds on climber’s left, but that would have put my body fully exposed over 1,000 feet. There is a workaround on the right, but it involves an extremely long step and what looked to be six to eight moves, whereas the main crux is really just one move. After studying the rock a little more, I found a small hole/divot where I could place the toe of my right approach shoe. That gave me enough stability to pull myself up until I could get my left knee onto the ledge. [I know some people feel strongly against using a knee while scrambling, but as a shorter climber, sometimes that’s the only practical option.] The rest of the ridge was fun and relatively easy. It is certainly exposed, but there are no other long moves like the crux. Downclimbing the crux was trickier for shorter legs. My partner felt comfortable offering me a foothold with his hands. I do not think everyone would be comfortable doing this. I don’t think I actually weighted the foothold much; it was more reassuring to know it was there if needed. I was ultimately able to lower myself down the face of the rock until my left foot found the ledge below. Without that extra point of stabilization available, the move would have felt substantially more sketchy. 

Route: Little Bear + Blanca Traverse
Posted On: 5/31/2026, By: MountainBuhn
Info: Summited LB from West Ridge Indirect. Hardest part was navigating the loose rock from the standard trail up to the ridge. Ridge itself was fun and self explanatory. LB was our finisher!

Top of LB by 2pm. Sent traverse at 2:15pm. Took 3:15. Summited Blanca around 5:30. Great weather and far less wind than forecasted.

Snow free much of route. Some in Gully but melting fast. HG had minimal snow. Traverse also had no snow.

We felt the crux was the initial class 4 downclimb move. Feet and hand holds are just hard to come by and it’s exposed. Bivwacko overhyped and there were 2-3 other rock skirting moves that were more exposed and sketchier. Catwalk lived up to the hype but you’re so locked in at that point that it feels easy. 

Route: West Ridge and Hourglass
Posted On: 5/30/2026, By: WinterisClimbing
Info: We ran into Roughrider28 who left the previous condition report on the way up as we were deciding between the West Ridge Indirect and the Hourglass. Huge thanks to him for the beta and encouragement to send it. Decided to post a condition report for the Hourglass conditions later in the day as it changed drastically. The rope in the Hourglass is frayed in a few places, definitely 3 points of contact recommended on the rock. No ice or snow in or past the Hourglass by 2pm the same day Roughrider climbed. It's very very wet though, and ice/snow is melting which means rocks got sent down above us even though we were the only ones on the mountain. 

Route: West Ridge and Hourglass
Posted On: 5/29/2026, By: Roughrider23
Info: Went up the hourglass, in the morning very icy and the guide rope frozen into the mountain. Me and my partner broke it free and ascended the gully. 2nd rope was higher up and in much better condition being in a spot not shadowed. A few inches of snow near the summit but everything was melting fast in the afternoon. On our descent the hourglass had a rushing stream of snowmelt. Wouldn’t be surprised if by next week we were in full summer conditions. 

Route: Little Bear + Blanca Traverse
Posted On: 5/24/2026, By: jahselassie
Info: Sent the traverse today. Summer conditions. Went up the West Ridge Direct to the summit of LB. Traverse to Ellingwood is also summer conditions. I couldn’t get beta from anyone today on conditions in the Hourglass. 

Route: Lake Como Approach
Posted On: 5/11/2026, By: puckpunk
Info: The storm cycles of the last two weeks refreshed the snow/ice of the hourglass. We made it to the snowfield at the base, where you could see and hear the ice melting in there. Three things were spit out of the hourglass opening (two rocks and an ice chunk) as we were trying to decide what to do, so we took it as a sign to turn around there.

There is snow in the gully. It was pretty solid on the ascent, and much softer/punchier on the way down. We had helmets, microspikes, and poles. Crampons & and ice axe might have been nice on the way up the gully, but we managed. There was also snow/ice on the ridge trail above 12,500, but it was easy to work around.

Sounds like it was dry in the hourglass a few weeks ago, so maybe some warm days will bring that back! 

Route: West Ridge and Hourglass
Posted On: 4/26/2026, By: kwagner27
Info: Summited via hourglass in approach shoes and micro spikes. There was a snow patch right below the hourglass, but inside it was totally dry, didn’t need the rope to make it up. The gully up to the west ridge was still snow packed and an ice axe is recommended. 

Route: Lake Como Approach
Posted On: 4/21/2026, By: wmagnuson7
Info: TL:DR: Would recommend waiting until summer conditions for hourglass or go up West Ridge Indirect. Would leave snowshoes at home, but would bring crampons, gaiters and ice axe for West Gulley (and of course, a helmet).

Summited via the hourglass, but wouldn’t recommend it anytime soon. When I reached the base of the hourglass, the majority of it had either snow, ice or verglas. There was a rope that looked to be in very good condition, so tested it thoroughly (pulled very hard to mimic a fall) and evaluated it as I climbed up. I considered descending via West Ridge Indirect, but didn’t know the route well enough to feel confident, so descended via the hourglass and had to use the rope a couple times.

I obviously didn’t love having to use the rope, but it was in excellent shape, but who knows how much longer it will be good for. 

Route: West Ridge and Hourglass
Posted On: 4/8/2026, By: Rdomales
Info: West Ridge Gulley was partially filled in with snow. Morning conditions provided a supportive crust for easy ascent with crampons and ice axe. Early afternoon conditions softened up allowing for a fun glissade back down to lake Como. The hourglass was almost completely dry except for a few snow patches and clear ice streaks that could be easily avoided. There was a water ice steak along the fixed line. Crampons were only necessary in the West ridge gulley. 

Route: SW Ridge
Posted On: 3/20/2026, By: the_hare
Info: Had the same thought as Chipmunk, in a word, summer conditions.

Wanted to add a few comments on the bushwhack approach up to the ridge. I followed the general instructions from Wentzl's report & downloaded the GPX file from user dbolton's report and didn't have much trouble. The starting old road branched off Lake Como Rd at 8900ft, then transitioned to a game/old stock trail abt 0.4mi in, then followed a series of drainages/ game trails/ old cowboy trails/ ATV roads up to the Tobin Creek drainage. Surprisingly this was easier to follow on the way back at night than during the day.

I found a hoof-trodden ramp down into the steep Tobin drainage & made my way to the waterfall to cross. The vegetation to get to the falls wasn't bad, but the exit was a little brushy and involved a class-3 gully with many loose rocks.

On the long talus hill up to 12900ft, if you look closely there's a winding on & off trail of sorts made of small ruddy crushed rock that was easier to move on, wonder if it's an artifact made by prospectors on the ridge or CMC back in the day. I didn't face any wind around noon on this section but in the evening they were ripping across north to south. I guess temp variations in the valleys during the mornings & evenings create these sustained winds.

The steep start of the ridge just after the Tobin drainage on the descent was the worst part of the route for me. The ground is loose with plenty of sliding rocks and cactus patches to fall into.

I had hyped this route up in my head a lot but found it to be pretty enjoyable. The bushwhack had a lot of unique vegetation & smells & it was cool to use historic trails. The class-3 wasn't bad or exposure super sustained on both sides at least, but ofc I had prime conditions. Really nice to meet many fellow forum members as well, great work all! 

Route: SW Ridge
Posted On: 3/19/2026, By: Chipmunk
Info: SW Ridge route is in summer condition.

The Hourglass as seen from the ridge looks thin and sad.

Nice meeting Alec, Emily, and the_hare up there today!