Mt Rainier ski descent ~ 5/27/2024

[amitchell]

Hi all, I've been planning to head out to the PNW for some volcano summits next week. I'd really like to climb Rainier, but am looking for some help on decisions. I don't have anyone to do it with, so I'd be solo (wouldn't mind a partner if there's anyone else out there). First question: is it easy to meet other people to climb with in a Yosemite-esque way? Second: If not, is it possible to "solo flash" a ski descent of Rainier?

I've finished the CO14ers and have 95 days skied this season, half of them touring on high Colorado mountains (d-tail, dead dog, Tuning fork). While I am experienced, I've done little work in actual glacial terrain with crevasses, and I know they can be quite the game changer. I was hoping that going early-ish in the season, May, could help since the glacier won't be so melted out.

As far as routes go, I know disappointment clever is the standard route, and it looks to be somewhat skiable, although I've seen little documentation on ski descents of the route. I've seen that Fuhrer's Finger is the most popular ski route (The 50 eh?). I feel that clever would be better to solo, since it would be more popular and tracked out with a clear path. Another question: will there be guided trips at this time of year who's trenches can be followed, or is it route finding all the way? If there are no guided trips to follow, I don't think a solo flash would be feasible.

Anyways, thanks for any response! And btw, I'd be happy to meet there and climb it with anyone else. I'll have a harness, microtrax, rope, and spikes at the ready in case I find any partners to walk the glaciers with.

[griddles]

I think it's a bit early for the guide companies to have trips going.
Do you have a solo permit?
https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/climbing.htm

[amitchell]

Yes, I filled it out. Although, it's looking more and more like I don't want to go solo at the moment. I'm thinking of posting up outside the visitor center with a "summit team wanted" sign haha

[Wildernessjane]

For what it’s worth, I’ve been on Rainier multiple times via different routes and have never had a problem scoring a last minute walk-up permit when I’ve needed to switch up my plans (though I’ve never gone solo and was always pretty flexible). Ingraham Direct would be a much more pleasant route to ski than DC but it does shut down earlier in the season. I suspect Emmons would make for an even more enjoyable ski descent and the crevasses didn’t seem to be as big on the route when we descended it after doing a carryover (though I’d caution this is a pretty serious mountain from that standpoint and there are not going to be any “easy” or low risk routes). Fuhrer Finger would be a step up in terms of difficulty but also a very popular ski descent. I’ve heard from some friends out that way that conditions in the PNW are more similar to what you’d expect to see in June due to a stretch of warm weather (take this with a grain of salt though). I would keep an eye on the Climber’s Blog: http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/?m=1

These are also great resources for planning:
https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/ ... _FINAL.pdf
https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/ ... _FINAL.pdf

[JacobW]

I've skied Rainier a couple times, both by going up Ingram and down FF. Last time I did it was May 22nd, 2022 and having a partner and good glacier skills was pretty important since there wasn't a track set in to the summit yet. We had to set the bootback which involved navigating 4 crevasse crossings, two were quite large. The other time, there was a bootpack set, and while the crevasse danger was still real, it was like a staircase to the summit. As far as getting conditions goes, it's good to be flexible. The cascades have more bad days than good ones, and your chance of success is much higher if you take the time to go for the best looking day. More info in the link below.

https://www.powderproject.com/trail/700 ... rer-finger

[SnowAlien]

I hiked Rainier 2x via DC/Ingraham and Sherman, and with all the crevasses and ladders it didn't look like a good ski to me. Some people I know skied Further Finger, but reported heavy rockfall on the route, to the point of being injured, so I'm not too interested in that route either.
If you want decent volcano ski descents, without crevasses, especially as s solo skier, I'd recommend Shasta, Hood, Adams and St Helens (I solo skied the last 2). There were some crevasses on Adams, but they were easily avoidable. FYI, PNW snow is much, much heavier than Colorado snow and huge vert like Shasta especially (7k), is hard to time correctly. For us, top was ice, Trinity chutes were corn and below that was bottomless heavy slush. For this reason I prefer shorter lines, since I'm not moving fast. For PNW and gradual slope angles there, ski crampons are essential for the uphill.

[SkaredShtles]

Yes, I filled it out. Although, it's looking more and more like I don't want to go solo at the moment.

This is good - you really don't want to climb/ski Rainier solo. Esp with no glacier experience.

[Bill G]

You need a resume of significant glacier experience to get a solo permit. Your chance to be approved based upon what you posted is zero.

[pvnisher]

Probably not what you're looking for, but my plan for skiing Rainier is to only ski the lower part from Muir down to Paradise. No glacier to contend with.

Not quite the same experience as from the summit, but that's my plan for my next (which will be my 4th) trip out there.

[MN teleMARKer]

Probably not what you're looking for, but my plan for skiing Rainier is to only ski the lower part from Muir down to Paradise. No glacier to contend with.

Not quite the same experience as from the summit, but that's my plan for my next (which will be my 4th) trip out there.

Agreed! After climbing Emmons Glacier route last time, I’d like to skin up the Inter Glacier next time and ski down. It was my first time traversing a glacier, so I learned a lot from my team. Although people do solo Rainier, it’s not something I’d care to do. The roped team saved my life.

[Wildernessjane]

I thought of another resource we found super helpful when we were out skiing volcanos in the PNW last spring: https://www.skimountaineer.com/CascadeS ... me=Rainier

I would absolutely second the recommendations for Shasta and Adams (SW chutes). We also hit Lassen on the way to Shasta, which was really fun and the most underrated. We also skied the Easton Glacier on Baker, which I loved, but there are some pretty legit crevasses on that one as well (you could look at Coleman-Deming Glacier in early season if there are not access issues again).

[XterraRob]

Why not do a normal summit attempt to get a feel for the mountain & conditions, then go back for a ski descent?