Peak Fifteen alternative route idea

[Tornadoman]

I was doing a little research on Peak Fifteen using Caltopo, etc. The standard route is the blue line, and I was wondering if anyone had ever tried the green line I posted which looks like it would ascend a little ridge to the Turret/Fifteen saddle? It actually looks less steep than the standard on caltopo. I assume there is a reason that it doesn't go well, but would be interested in any beta. I did read the trip report from seano where he linked a lot of peaks up and he considered the climb from the Turret/Peak 15 saddle to be class 4/5.0 on decent rock. Curious on thoughts from people who have been in that area.

-Andrew

Peak15.PNG (924.04 KiB) Viewed 2660 times

[Mtnman200]

Check with Mark Ott, who combined Turret with Fifteen in 2012.

[DaveLanders]

I know a couple of people who did this, but I think it was by mistake (they headed up the wrong couloir). They are strong climbers; I don't think they used a rope.

[illusion7il]

I think this is what your looking for...

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=17425

[Tornadoman]

I think this is what your looking for...

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=17425

I have seen this report, and there is definitely some useful information there. He describes the route from Turret to Fifteen, as "The crux of getting from Turret to Fifteen is the descent of Turret. It's not exceptionally hard (~5.4 where I was, and possibly easier farther south), but the rock is horrible. The climb up Fifteen from this side is class 4-5.0 on decent rock -- head up and right from the notch on the obvious ledge until you reach the south ridge."

However, the route I am interested in would not ascend Turret at all, but use the green line on the image I posted to reach the saddle between Turret/Fifteen from New York Basin. From there it would continue up the 4/5.0 ascent up Fifteen from the trip report.

[Boggy B]

the route I am interested in would not ascend Turret at all, but use the green line on the image I posted to reach the saddle between Turret/Fifteen from New York Basin.

The Cooneys label the couloir in question--in their overview image for Peak Fifteen--as part of "the alternate, technical route for Turret," so it would appear it has been used to access the Turret-Fifteen saddle. No other details, though.
https://www.climb13ers.com/colorado-13ers/peak-fifteen

I don't own any of the books, but maybe Roach or G&M or Ormes have it?

[Tornadoman]

the route I am interested in would not ascend Turret at all, but use the green line on the image I posted to reach the saddle between Turret/Fifteen from New York Basin.

The Cooneys label the couloir in question--in their overview image for Peak Fifteen--as part of "the alternate, technical route for Turret," so it would appear it has been used to access the Turret-Fifteen saddle. No other details, though.
https://www.climb13ers.com/colorado-13ers/peak-fifteen

I don't own any of the books, but maybe Roach or G&M or Ormes have it?

Thanks for pointing out the Cooney's label, that led me to a little more research on their site. They have a pretty good description of the route under their Turret page. https://www.climb13ers.com/colorado-13ers/turret-peak That combined with the information that others have provided, makes it seem like a feasible option that is no more than 5.ez.

I have all of the guidebooks you mention and don't see anything there, but think I have enough info to give this a reasonable shot if the mood so strikes me!

[Marmot72]

Andrew,
Don't take this the wrong way, but I'm surprised to see your peak list doesn't include any of the 13ers in the Grenadiers or Needles and you're looking intently at Fifteen. Damn - go big or go home, I guess.

I've been looking at Fifteen a lot, as the only reason I don't have Pigeon, Turret, Animas, etc. is that I want to make a "clean sweep" on a visit to Ruby Basin and I'm not skilled at rope work - putting in pro and whatnot. This past summer, I PM'd Ott to see what he could tell me of the rap off Turret, but he never replied. Sean O"Rourke is one cool dude and was helpful to me with some descriptions a couple years ago - helpful enough that I decided I don't think I want to risk free soloing from 15 to Turret, given the poor quality of the rock. If hauling rope, etc. rapping from Turrent just seems the most efficient, but I'd love to not need a rope at all. I've just not communicated with anyone besides badass Sean who has done it free. Brian Kalet is another who has done so.

As for the actual climb itself, I’m having trouble how the Cooneys’ route differs, and the pictures don’t give me confidence that the ridge you describe goes at less than class five, but I’m curious to know more about what you think.

I hope to finally get up there in summer '20 after three years of potential partners bowing out, so feel free to PM if you are interested.

-Steve

[Tornadoman]

Andrew,
Don't take this the wrong way, but I'm surprised to see your peak list doesn't include any of the 13ers in the Grenadiers or Needles and you're looking intently at Fifteen. Damn - go big or go home, I guess.

I am reasonably certain that I am going to the Grenadiers/Needles next summer, Fifteen is among the possibility but certainly there are other options which admittedly may make more sense. Something about doing Fifteen from a different way and seeing if it is actually a better route is appealing. As long as I employ conservative decision making could at least do a 'scouting mission' on the Cooney's route toward the Turret/Fifteen saddle and see what it looks like. I would probably end up bailing at about 12.5k but at least I would see it in person. Let's keep in touch and maybe in the spring see if we want to join up on anything back there.

-Andrew

[cottonmountaineering]

I'll try to remember this for next summer and take a look

Looking at topo maps doesnt tell you the character of a route outside of an average gradient, chances are theres a 50 ft vertical blank slab or some other obstacle in that gully preventing easy access

[Skimo95]

Curious if the “standard” route on 15 is still the go-to? Any insight would be great.

[bdloftin77]

Ditto. I'm also curious what length of rope is good for the rap. I've heard 60m from one source via another source, but just double checking.