Top Weather Tips For Climbing 14ers?

[TA2773]

What are some good weather tips for climbing 14ers?

I've heard that it's important to be off the mountain by noon, but is that always necessary? For example, if the forecast is showing a sunny day with 0% chance of precipitation?

The reason I ask is because some of those hikes sound like they can take up to 7-8 hours, which in some cases would mean hiking in the dark. And obviously that's less than ideal if it can be avoided.

[ezabielski]

What are some good weather tips for climbing 14ers?

I've heard that it's important to be off the mountain by noon, but is that always necessary? For example, if the forecast is showing a sunny day with 0% chance of precipitation?

The reason I ask is because some of those hikes sound like they can take up to 7-8 hours, which in some cases would mean hiking in the dark. And obviously that's less than ideal if it can be avoided.

Pre-dawn starts (alpine starts) are necessary on many 14ers unless you're a very strong hiker (or runner). Alpine starts are a well ingrained part of climbing mountains in Colorado. Sometimes, you'll need to do extremely early alpine starts (like 2-3am), and some 14ers take way longer than 7-8 hours for most hikers, especially if you're not backpacking in. There are certainly days in summer that it doesn't rain in the afternoon, but they are the exception in July/August, and you're probably not going to have the luxury of waiting for those days to climb.

So yeah, alpine starts are usually necessary for slow-medium speed hikers who don't want to risk lightning. It's not really so bad, and I have fond alpine start memories. Like when you're getting above treeline and the sun still hasn't risen, and it's just you, the wind, your headlamp, and faint mountains surrounding you. Damn, that's the good stuff.

[kwhit24]

TA,

I posted about something similar a few weeks back and got some really great responses as far as checking weather the day of or maybe the day before. For me I start my hikes no later than 6am and the longer ones at like 4ish (maybe earlier to get some great pictures of the sun rise). You always have to be more careful with East slopes since you cant see storms coming in on the other side of the mountain and thats where I find the weather forecasting useful. Knowing how fast you typically hike is helpful for combos so you dont get caught in a bad spot (I'm not sure of your experience since you just joined). Ultimately, the weather can change so quickly that its best to be heading down before noon. Plus I enjoy less crowded summits

Here is the link to my previous post.

http://14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 23#p602323

Happy Hiking!

[J-RockandRockpile]

Not really a "weather tip" per se but be cognoscente of "summit fever" especially when the sky starts to darken and your within reach of the summit. Never hurts to turn back and try again another day.

[scalba123]

So yeah, alpine starts are usually necessary for slow-medium speed hikers who don't want to risk lightning. It's not really so bad, and I have fond alpine start memories. Like when you're getting above treeline and the sun still hasn't risen, and it's just you, the wind, your headlamp, and faint mountains surrounding you. Damn, that's the good stuff.

Truth.

[akoller]

There are some days -- they happen more often in the fall -- with close to zero percent chance of rain where you can start later, as long as you don't care about snow conditions.

[Rollie Free]

I don't have a mountain of climbing experience (hehe) but on the first one I ever did (Massive) I heeded the warning and turned back because of a late start. A half hour later on the way down KABOOOM!!!!!!, lightning shook the mountain, we were inside treeline by then. Same thing happened on the way down from Shavano last year. Be off before noon is not some convenient cliche, it should be taken as gospel.

Where I am from, storms are much better measured. They are forecast and we have warnings, know they are coming and when they are over, its over. The Colorado mountain storms I've seen are more like very violent flare ups that are hard to predict and last a short time. If you are out in your yard no problem, go inside, but if hiking you are captive. Starting earlier doesn't guarantee anything but it does lessen the odds quite a bit.

[Urban Snowshoer]

What are some good weather tips for climbing 14ers?

I've heard that it's important to be off the mountain by noon, but is that always necessary? For example, if the forecast is showing a sunny day with 0% chance of precipitation?

The reason I ask is because some of those hikes sound like they can take up to 7-8 hours, which in some cases would mean hiking in the dark. And obviously that's less than ideal if it can be avoided.

The weather forecast is reasonably accurate a day or two out; however, it is wrong from time to time, as mountain create their own weather. Starting early is non-negotiable--exactly how early depends on your pace and the difficult and/or length of what you intend to climb. Regardless, expecting to be able to sleep in until say 8 or 9 in the morning and then start climbing is not a realistic proposition. In terms of time, taking 7-8 hours to complete a climb isn't that unusual.

As far as the conventional wisdom of being off by noon, it's more of a final deadline than a suggestion: i.e. you want to be heading down earlier, if possible. I would also note that although storms are most likely to hit in the afternoon, that isn't an absolute--my first attempt at Long's was thwarted when it socked in around 9-10am.

[Chicago Transplant]

My tips are Awareness, Flexibility and Calendar

Awareness: Be aware of what is going on around you, if you see storms building earlier, by all means, turn around. The thing that gets missed a lot in the "off by noon" mandate is that the same people who will curse at you for going uphill at 11.30 in September with 0% chance of rain are the same ones who go head first into a black cloud at 9am because "it isn't noon yet". Sometimes the storms come earlier than noon, that black cloud at 9am might not hold off for 3 more hours so you can summit. Yes, its a good rule of thumb to be off by noon, but please, don't keep going up above treeline into a morning storm just because its not noon yet.

Flexibility: I have gone out in days with high thunderstorm chances (60% or higher) and been able to summit because I picked short routes that I knew I could do in 4 or 5 hours RT. Don't just say I am going to do "X" peak next Saturday and feel locked in to some 10 hour days and then cancel because of the forecast. Instead, have options for shorter routes closer to home (even if its a repeat or non-14er), its better than sitting at home watching it rain being bored! Similarly, don't be locked in to a San Juan trip then find the Sawatch has a better forecast and wish you went there instead, just go where the forecast looks better.

Calendar: The thunderstorms don't last all year, they start to sneak in there in June and can be pretty solid July/August, then in September sometime they generally go away and you have crystal clear skies for weeks. That is when you should do the harder/ longer more committing routes - in September "post monsoon". By then you aren't so worried about getting chased off by a storm. Sometimes there can be snow or ice, but a lot of that melts out if it goes back to a dry period. I did Wetterhorn once in late October and all of the scrambling was completely dry, 3 weeks earlier someone had posted a conditions update that they had waist deep snow.

Hope that helps with your planning. Have fun and be safe!

[Dave B]

The weather forecast is reasonably accurate a day or two out; however, it is wrong from time to time, as mountain create their own weather.

Well...

Technically, weather forecasts can't be "wrong". They report the probability of an event occurring within a given space, not an absolute, binary, yes or no. Given, sometimes forecasts are for 0% or 100% chance of rain, in which case if the converse occurs in the forecast time frame then technically, the forecast was wrong.

Nevertheless, predicting summertime convective storms in the mountains is difficult. NOAA and the NWS are pretty good at forecasting if there will be thunderstorm activity in a given area but not at predicting specific storms, strength and track ahead of time.

I've always felt that 20% is the cutoff. A 20% or below chance of precip is a pretty good bet you'll have a clear afternoon. I remember sitting on top of Sharkstooth in RMNP (arguably one of the most lightning prone summits in the park) at 2p on an early 20% August day without a cloud in site. It was pretty awesome. I've also been hailed on on 30% days.

Long story short. Get back to tree line by noon. Mountaineering isn't supposed to be easy or leisurely. Alpine starts should be a given unless you feel you've got the knowledge and experience to make a different decision.

[TA2773]

Thanks, these tips are very helpful.

This is somewhat related, but is there a list somewhere with time estimates for completing each 14er?

I realize it will vary depending on the route you take, and how fast you go, but some basic estimates would be really helpful.

[bergsteigen]

Thanks, these tips are very helpful.

This is somewhat related, but is there a list somewhere with time estimates for completing each 14er?

I realize it will vary depending on the route you take, and how fast you go, but some basic estimates would be really helpful.

Climb times: http://14ers.com/php14ers/timesmain.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;